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deemery
Fireman

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Posted - 12/01/2019 :  12:06:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is split from my "Winchendon Machine Company" thread, http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35545&whichpage=14 I decided to pair the Motrak Bisgeier Tool with the Laser Modeling 3 Wichendon Machine, a project I started 4 years ago :-).

Bisgeier Tool will be the structure on the right side here.

I'll be rearranging some of the additions/ells to fit the space.

dave
Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7848

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 12/01/2019 :  12:16:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to this, Dave!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 6781 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  12:24:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking for the new build. I'll follow along.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 11733 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  12:32:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Another look at the site, this shows the ell for what Motrak calls the 'grinding shop' (to be moved from the end of the building around to the side.)


For paint, I decided to go with "Golden Brown" craft paint, actually a nice ochre color. But first I stained the wood with HunterLine Blue Grey.

Then I put everything under weights to help prevent warping.

I thinned the paint so it's more like a stain, brushed it on, and put things back under weights.

I'm pondering spray-painting the back of the walls, this kit comes with a lighting kit and I don't want light shining through the wood walls. I'll have to decide between black and white, black is better to prevent light leaks, but white is better if I end up doing an interior. (I'm still pondering that.)

A peek at the drying paint:

I'll probably go back and do a second coat after this dries, to get more even coloring. But this does give a nice weathered paint look.


The overall concept for this area is the Wichendon Machine building does the heavy fabrication, while the Bisgeier Tool does final assembly and storage. I don't have room for another warehouse in this scene.

The signage will be for "Oil Well Supply Company." (The next scene to the right will eventually be my 1890s era refinery.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 12/01/2019 12:41:23 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

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Posted - 12/01/2019 :  1:02:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, do a coat of black and then a coat of white on the interior.

George



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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 12/01/2019 :  1:33:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by George D

Dave, do a coat of black and then a coat of white on the interior.

George



George,

I like the way you think! Great minds and all that!

I had the same idea awhile ago, but you beat me to the thread. And I wondered about grey automotive primer as a compromise, but I think I'd probably go with the black/white combo for best results.

Pete
in Michigan



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  1:40:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hmmm... I have a bottle of Vallejo Panzer Grey primer due in early next week. That's almost black.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 12/01/2019 2:27:14 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 12/01/2019 :  2:01:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm glad to see you resuming work on this kit. This time I'll keep my shop advice to myself unless asked. Next time you might try adding a lot of water or alcohol to the Craft golden brown paint and make it a stain. On YouTube, Jason Jensen Trains demonstrates that approach. I always try new colors on a piece of scrape first.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5261 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  2:19:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Actually, I thinned the Golden Brown pretty heavily to get a stain, by at least 1/3 (using water with Liquitex Flow-Aid.) And I'm always happy to get shop advice (I just don't guarantee I'll obey it...) The variation in color is due to the paint being so thin, another coat should even out the coloring. But I think I'll "save" that last coat until after I paint the back of the walls.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  2:52:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i should add some comments about the kit itself. The kit is well organized, the wood is bagged with tags showing what each bag contains. There's laser-cut glazing and a template showing the window target for each piece of glazing. As I mentioned, the kit includes a hydrocal cast stone foundation and a MicroLumina lighting kit. Instructions so far are good, with full-scale templates showing how to cut and add bracing (including making sure the bracing doesn't interfere with the interior floors.) A very nice kit!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 12/01/2019 2:54:03 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 12/01/2019 :  3:11:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

Actually, I thinned the Golden Brown pretty heavily to get a stain, by at least 1/3 (using water with Liquitex Flow-Aid.)
dave



More like 20:1

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5261 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  3:17:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
At 20-1, craft paint pigments might not cover the wood grain in the basswood. That would probably work better if the wood was sealed first (sanding sealer or shellac?)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 12/01/2019 :  4:07:50 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Iím looking forward to watching you build your newest project. I checked out the Motrak site to see what it will look like; it doesnít seem to be available but I believe thatís a photo of the completed model at the top of their pages.

Youíre using a good historic color. And the trim color will be . . . ?

Regarding the inside walls, what about a darkish brown to represent oxidized, grungy wood? Exposed bare wood starts to oxidize very quickly e.g there are places on my benchwork that looks noticeably darker compared to parts that had been covered by other benchwork for just a decade.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 5394 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  5:52:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike, good idea with oxidized wood! I can do a medium brown over the dark grey primer. Windows will be off-white (mostly because that's what I already painted the WM window castings, and will paint the BT castings to match.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/01/2019 :  7:39:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I agree with Mike about brown as an interior coverup/light block. IMO white makes the interior too bright and visible through the windows.


Country: USA | Posts: 5978 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2019 :  2:24:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's the set of walls after the first coat of paint has dried.


Next step is to add the bracing, then prime the back of the walls. I hope the bracing will pull the warp out of the walls.

The foundation casting is primed with my favorite Bob Ross grey gesso.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7848 Go to Top of Page
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