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Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics Photo Album | File Lister | File Library [ Active Members: 4 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 112 ]  [ Total: 116 ]  [ Newest Member: rkovvur ]  All Forums  Model Railroad Forums  Early Rail Forum  The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley Part two Previous Page | Next Page  New Topic |   Reply to Topic |  Author Topic Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 of 7 railman28 Fireman Posted - 08/26/2019 :  7:58:08 PM     I look forward to your article Bernd. I Finally got my Autocubic Photon 3D resin printer set up. Here's the mandatory first test print; It's sitting in the sun absorbing UV rays to fully set. The first motor mount is printing now. It will take a little over 2 hrs. A lot better better than 7-9 days waiting for a Shapeways shipment. While this Cube was printing I modified my Rivet test piece. You might remember that it failed it's purpose because I didn't include any rivets on curved surface. I've added several curves to see what this printer will do. Here's the new test piece; This should be interesting. Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5194 OK Hogger Crew Chief Posted - 08/27/2019 :  09:31:49 AM     Wow. That test piece looks quite complex and it looks to be quite smooth! You may have purchased a winner there! Andre Country: | Posts: 804 railman28 Fireman Posted - 08/27/2019 :  5:29:44 PM     Well, I have a lot to share. I am using a ANYCUBIC Photon 3D resin printer. This is my first print. A motor mount to hold the motor and speaker while leaving room for the decoder and keep alive in the tender. Here's the cured print with the supports; The Resin is as least as strong as FUD is and I believe it's strong enough as I have engineered for this purpose. This piece cleaned up quickly and easily. The motor fit and all the mounting hole line up fine. Here's it's ling in the tender frame with the speaker in place and the stay alive in it's location. And with the tender shell in place; Check the drive staff alignment; So it's Good enough for the black smith chores but what about surface details? My last posting was of the test piece to see what detail level this machine could handle. Like all good test it included details that I didn't think it would be able to handle. Here are the results. Judge for yourselves; This hot show the detail on the bottom surfaces and the biggest failure can be seen here. The flat plane projecting into the tube should have a 90* corner on it. What do think? I am very pleased with the results. Do you think I have reason to be? Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Bernd Fireman Posted - 08/27/2019 :  7:59:47 PM       WOW Bob, great progress. That motor and speaker mount turned out nice. I'm impressed. Bernd Country: USA | Posts: 3145 OK Hogger Crew Chief Posted - 08/27/2019 :  10:24:11 PM     I too, am impressed. Not only the model, but your ability to design and execute! You're becoming a shur'nuf "whiz-bang" at this 3D design/printing thing! Andre Country: | Posts: 804 Michael Hohn Fireman Posted - 08/27/2019 :  10:37:21 PM       Looks good to me, Bob. Do you think it would look different painted, especially the details? Country: USA | Posts: 5191 railman28 Fireman Posted - 08/28/2019 :  12:25:48 AM     Bernd, Thank you, From the master machinist you are that's quite a compliment. Andre, Thank you, The Software, Fusion 360 makes it easy. All I got to do is make accurate measurements with my Harbor Express Calibers. the printer comes with a set up software they call Slicer that not only controls the layering of the prints but adds all those supports. Makes it easy. Mike, Thank you, It looks better painted. I hit it with a couple of light coats of Walmart gray primer. I'm re-evaluating the quality of the print with a little less adrenaline clouding my vision. I still like what I 'm seeing but I'm also thinking I should of done some things better. For example; On the 2nd close-up there are what look like 12 traffic cones on the flat plain. These were drawn as .020 rods with from left to right (in inches)are .015,.010 and .005 inside dimensions. These were to determine how small I could print tubing. Looking at the first row it appears I can't print a wall .005" thick. That is why they look like traffic cones. An important lesson. As I continue to study this test piece I'm sure others will emerge. Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Michael Hohn Fireman Posted - 08/28/2019 :  09:32:38 AM       Bob, I noticed the traffic cones. Reminded me of my recent drive through New England. You’re being very organized learning the capabilities of your new tool. Smart. Mike Country: USA | Posts: 5191 masonamerican Fireman Posted - 08/28/2019 :  2:55:25 PM     Looks terrific Bob! I’m very happy you are pleased with the Printer. It has its drawbacks with the supports that are needed. One get one good side and one bad side so to speak. One need to think one more time when making the 3D models. I see you use Anycubics green resin. There are even better ones although expensive. I have had great results with this one: https://www.fepshop.com/shop/uv-resin/druckwege/druckwege-funktional-pro-black-sample/ Håkan Country: Sweden | Posts: 1730 railman28 Fireman Posted - 08/28/2019 :  3:27:27 PM     Hi Håkan, Thank you very much. I appreciate your observations. And, yes, That was lesson one on my first print. You need to plan your support locations well. I appreciate your recommendation on resin too. I'll defiantly check that out. Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5194 railman28 Fireman Posted - 08/29/2019 :  7:33:42 PM     I feel like I got a lot done today. It sure is nice not having to wait for prints to show up in the mail. I painted the motor mount Walmart primer grey. It looks better than emerald. I also started working on the drive staff and draw bar. Here are some pictures. This first one show the motor mounted full mounted in the frame; here are the draw bars just off the printer; It's my usual procedure to make draw bars from styrene using the traditional methods. I feel I got better results quicker with my new tools. Here's is the tender with the shell sitting in place. You can see the u-joint cup on the motor shaft and the draw bar in place; I just have to connect the tender to the engine. Then I be able to test run it with jumper wires. If that goes well then I'll install the electronics and the the electric pick-up on the wheels. That should give me a running engine. Then it will be just a matter of adding details and painting. I feel I'm really getting close guys. Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5194 railman28 Fireman Posted - 08/30/2019 :  9:34:16 PM     And finally, Mogul #5 the 1/8"axle version. https://youtu.be/wVibFaM7QzQ Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5194 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 08/31/2019 :  09:09:06 AM     Looks (and sounds) good! dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 7698 Michael Hohn Fireman Posted - 08/31/2019 :  09:42:58 AM       Nice! Country: USA | Posts: 5191 railman28 Fireman Posted - 09/01/2019 :  11:52:27 AM     Dave, Mike, Thanks for noticing me. I do appreciate it. 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