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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 06/27/2019 :  11:53:38 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Humm interesting George.


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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/27/2019 :  11:59:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by George D

Your windows look great, Carl. Another approach would be to print the muntins on a sheet of clear overhead projection film. You don't get the depth you do with the chart tape, but it won't lift off.

George



For what it's worth, I did try that once. My printer (at the time) didn't print dark enough. The view-graphs showed fine on the overhead, but didn't look right on the model.

Still, it's definitely worth trying (and I should try it with my new printer.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

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Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/27/2019 :  4:30:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
George- Thank you.
Sgt. Bob actually sent me some transparency film to try that idea, but just as Dave E discovered, my printer didn't go dark enough.

Frank- It certainly is...

I also tried drawing a grid pattern with a fine tip Sharpie free-handed- directly onto the acetate.
That worked better than I thought, and I may use it later on...



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Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 06/27/2019 :  5:29:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Carl another method I've used a few times is to scribe mullions into 0.01 in clear styrene using the back of a #11 blade tip and a metal straight edge. Then I fill the line with whatever acrylic color I want and wipe the excess off with a soft cloth.

In this general store photo you can see the results in the single vertical line in each display window



In the hotel you can compare the scribed vertical mullions on the 2nd & 3rd floors to the 1st floor windows that came with mullions as part of the casting.



On the house example the original mullions were removed and replaced by scribed lines. The results, which unfortunately don't show in this particular photo, caused each separate pane to bend slightly relative to its neighbors. Because of that each pane often reflects any light shining on the windows slightly differently which looks like many old windows I've seen. (Compare the size of the mullions on the house windows to the mullions on the back door and the small attached shed).




If you want to try this method, experiment first on some scrap 0.01 in clear styrene to get a feel for how hard to scribe the lines. I have found a single pass with the back of the blade usually works best. It doesn't take much pressure to get a nice clean line that readily holds pretty much any kind of paint.




Edited by - Bill Gill on 06/27/2019 6:54:35 PM

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kebmo
Fireman



Posted - 06/27/2019 :  6:51:35 PM  Show Profile  Visit kebmo's Homepage  Reply with Quote
carl,
you're windows turned out great! i've done it with pin striping tape,and it didn't turn out anywhere near as good as yours.


the only mystery in life is...why did the kamikaze pilots wear helmets?

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Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/27/2019 :  7:18:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill- Appreciate the idea-I remember your post from an older thread.

It's an interesting technique, but since I needed so many lines for so many muntins, I'd still need to be right on the money with the "scribing". But I will give it a try.

Kevin- Thank you my friend.



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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 06/27/2019 :  9:09:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you have access to a Cricut machine, here's another way to do windows: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50764 (go to page 6).

George



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Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/28/2019 :  10:31:27 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
George- Unfortunately I don't have a Cricut or know of anyone that does...

I've followed all your Cricut posts, and believe the machine is well suited for the window muntins application.

Perhaps a personal Christmas present?



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Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 07/01/2019 :  07:01:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For the last building, I'll need four brick walls 3 stories high. ( Scrooge and Marley ?...) These are Monster Modelworks aged brick sheets and Tichy masonry windows are standing by. A spare wall I had for a previous project will be repainted. All the openings are cut.



Now braced in the back, I'm test fitting the two doors. Also, prep is underway to dress up these plain walls, with a "plinth" masonry base. This technique was widely used to provide a barrier to the bottom courses of bricks against moisture, and some additional support. Using .06" basswood plain stock, with a bevel sanded on top.



I painted the walls and the plinth, but didn't apply any mortar yet. Began building up the trim work for the large main window and doors



Installing the masonry windows isn't easy, especially in 1/32" thick walls. The window castings are thicker than that! With no casings or trim, the openings must be cut perfectly.

To help with that issue, I mixed burnt sienna paint 50/50 with Liquitex modeling paste. I used the paste to actually adhere the window in place, and at the same time fill any gaps around the window. The colored paste blends in very well, holds the window firmly, and minimal touch ups are needed.



Windows installed, walls just propped up together for a test. The large multi-pane window muntins were made with a fine point marker this time, hand drawn directly on the acetate.





Sills of 2 x 4 stripwood and very thin cardstock lintels were applied to all 17 windows.



Beginning the shell-one wall at a time... the four different angles were difficult...gluing the walls to a "floor" of chipboard to create the basic shape....a couple 1/8" square basswood strips are keeping it from the very bottom....



After all dried overnight, I flipped the building up side down, and drew the outline of the walls on a sheet of paper. Then cut some 3 stepped rows of brick cornice detail I had never used from a styrene Faller kit and prepped 4 pieces. I matched the odd angles as best I could.



Till next time....more work on this structure...



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Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 07/01/2019 :  07:22:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A toast to your tip top work, Carl: Bottoms Up!
Good stuff as always with the walls and windows.



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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 07/01/2019 :  09:14:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Carl,

You always have a different perspective.

Fine-looking job making the brick walls and windows.

Mike



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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 07/01/2019 :  10:21:19 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

There's no "Bah! Humbug!" here.



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Terrell
Fireman

Posted - 07/01/2019 :  11:52:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well done, Carl !!


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mark_dalrymple
Fireman

Posted - 07/01/2019 :  3:01:04 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Looking fantastic, Carl!

Cheers, Mark.



Country: New Zealand | Posts: 1053 Go to Top of Page

Philip
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 07/01/2019 :  5:17:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit Philip's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice work Carl. Reminds me of the original Lesney Toy location!

Philip



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