Railroad Line Forums - Taking Older Diesels Out of Mothballs
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 2 | Anonymous Members: 1 | Guests: 172 ]  [ Total: 175 ]  [ Newest Member: Alex Italy ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Mid Scale Model Railroad Forum
 Taking Older Diesels Out of Mothballs
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Ballasting Track Topic Next Topic: Life-Like Alco S2 Wheel Cleaning Ideas Needed  

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/15/2018 :  2:11:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Because of all the helpful information from fellow members concerning the various older diesels that I'm bringing back to like, I thought that I would start a separate thread.

Louis, from what I can tell, the only tab-and-slot release points on the Kato NW2 are for removing the cab only. I tried the "Kato Method" as seen on their website and ended up putting a small crack in the running board near the front while trying to lift the shell off of the frame. I'll try again to see if there are "dimples" that need to be released. I'll bring my camera with me when I start working on it.

Country: USA | Posts: 8509

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/15/2018 :  2:17:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Concerning the Proto GP7, it hasn't been run on a layout, just like the other two diesels that I'm working on. When I'm finished checking it over, cleaning the wheels, giving it a lube-job, and some break-in running time, perhaps I should change the gears out. It sounds as if there's a high rate of failure for the gears and taking care of it before the layout track gets put in would seem like a prudent thing to do.


Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 12/15/2018 :  4:13:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK Russ, this thread is a better place. Your Kato NW2 cab must be removed first. This is done by using a pointed tool to gently force the cab latch tabs away from the body shell and metal frame from under the locomotive. The image in the picture shows the location of the cab latch tabs underneath, one on each side of the cab. The image in the picture also shows the cab partially removed. The cab latch tab can be seen at the bottom edge of the cab. The cab will slide away from the frame and body shell without difficulty once the cab latch
tabs are released at both sides.
Once the cab is removed the body shell is removed by lifting the "cab end" of the shell away from the frame weight. It may be necessary to use a blade to separate the shell from the shell latch on the frame casting, or inserting toothpicks up in-between the shell and weight tabs. The image in the picture shows the location of the shell latch on the weight ends of the frame. The cause of your small crack in the running board near the front my be due to the coupler still on, or the tabs inside the shell are holding the shell down to tight.
Once the shell is free from the frame casting at the cab end of the frame weight, then the shell can be removed from the forward end of the frame weight. The image in the picture shows the shell latch location on the weight. A slow, steady pressure moving the shell up and away from the frame weight will cause the shell and frame weight to separate. You may have to slowly rock back and forth the shell while pulling up and off.
Depending on your Kato NW2 model, you may have to remove the coupler, if so there is a picture for that as well. Just pry up with a screw driver under the coupler box.












Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16064 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 12/15/2018 :  4:34:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by slimrails

Concerning the Proto GP7, it hasn't been run on a layout, just like the other two diesels that I'm working on. When I'm finished checking it over, cleaning the wheels, giving it a lube-job, and some break-in running time, perhaps I should change the gears out. It sounds as if there's a high rate of failure for the gears and taking care of it before the layout track gets put in would seem like a prudent thing to do.



Russ, I hate to say this, but NIB doesn't mean a thing on the GP-7 axle issue. Several of the NIB Geeps I worked over a couple of years ago were 4/4 on needing gear replacements. Again, the A-Line replacements (NO financial interest here... just a Happy Camper) are inexpensive, available, easily installed and successful.

As I understand things, the basic issue was that the axles were jammed into the plastic gear housing during the manufacturing process before the gears had properly cured, resulting in a high failure rate. I may be very wrong, as my information is probably 276,276th-hand, instead of Direct, but whatever the cause, the amount of operation isn't the issue....

Best wishes on getting this stuff resolved!

And your Lounge Lizard fans are still wondering about the GPL....

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7384 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/15/2018 :  5:27:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Orionvp17
Russ, I hate to say this, but NIB doesn't mean a thing on the GP-7 axle issue. Several of the NIB Geeps I worked over a couple of years ago were 4/4 on needing gear replacements. Again, the A-Line replacements (NO financial interest here... just a Happy Camper) are inexpensive, available, easily installed and successful.

As I understand things, the basic issue was that the axles were jammed into the plastic gear housing during the manufacturing process before the gears had properly cured, resulting in a high failure rate. I may be very wrong, as my information is probably 276,276th-hand, instead of Direct, but whatever the cause, the amount of operation isn't the issue....Best wishes on getting this stuff resolved! And your Lounge Lizard fans are still wondering about the GPL....

Pete
in Michigan



I'll end up changing the gears before it see duty on the railroad, fer sure, Pete. For now, I want to see if it runs and if I can program the DCC module. This is all test-stand stuff for now. And about GPL...She's still in business but closed for vacation. She'll be open soon.



Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/15/2018 :  5:31:50 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Louis, I didn't have a chance to work on the NW2 today, but will tomorrow and I'll let you know what's up. The photos and the tip about putting in toothpicks and lifting the body off from the cab end instead of the front per your post is what I'll try next.


Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/16/2018 :  5:15:09 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good Evening, Crew! I spent some time at the bench and have the Proto Alco S2 re-assembled, so that one is good to go. I also have the Proto GP7 on a test track and hooked up to my NCE Powercab v3. The loco makes a high-pitched sound when on the powered track and I can't figure out what it is. The 8-pin DCC module isn't equipped for sound, so I'm at a complete loss as to what's causing it. Right now I have a loco number assigned, default values set, and next is to do some other programming.

The Kato NW2 is another story. I finally managed to get the shell off using Louis' info and that was a success. There's two small, black coupling sleeve parts that fit onto either end of the motor and joins the motor and the rest of the worm gear drives. And, unfortunately, one of these tiny parts ended up falling into the black hole know as the floor. Does anyone know what these are called? I'll need to find one or else the drive won't work and I want to see if Kato has them in stock. I'll probably give them a call during the week.



Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 12/17/2018 :  09:36:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by slimrails


The Kato NW2 is another story. I finally managed to get the shell off using Louis' info and that was a success. There's two small, black coupling sleeve parts that fit onto either end of the motor and joins the motor and the rest of the worm gear drives. And, unfortunately, one of these tiny parts ended up falling into the black hole know as the floor. Does anyone know what these are called? I'll need to find one or else the drive won't work and I want to see if Kato has them in stock. I'll probably give them a call during the week.



Russ, I assume the missing part is something in the dashed line area of this picture. So what part is missing #1 thru #4 ??????.




Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16064 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/17/2018 :  11:31:48 AM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Louis! I don't think my motor and drive look like the one pictured. The drive assembly on mine couples up inside a recessed part of the motor housing. If I had to guess, it would be part #2. I'll post some photos later on when I get down to the bench.


Edited by - slimrails on 12/17/2018 11:34:00 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 12/17/2018 :  1:07:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by slimrails

Thanks, Louis! I don't think my motor and drive look like the one pictured. The drive assembly on mine couples up inside a recessed part of the motor housing. If I had to guess, it would be part #2. I'll post some photos later on when I get down to the bench.



Russ disregard that last picture of the drive shaft. I just used it as an example to find the part you need. Does your motor housing look like this first picture posted?
This second picture below my be more what you have, if so it is called a "coupling". Let me know if it looks more like what you have in front of you.
This type of coupling slides into your flywheel and connects to your worm gear.








Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16064 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/17/2018 :  3:14:46 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That's it, Louis! I poorly described the first coupling part as being in the motor housing instead of being in the flywheel. That small, black sleeve is a "universal coupling" from what I've been able find out doing some research and that's what I'm missing from one end. Kato has them listed and I'll order a pair, one to replace the missing part and one for a spare. Thanks again, Louis!


Edited by - slimrails on 12/17/2018 3:15:42 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 12/17/2018 :  5:02:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by slimrails

That's it, Louis! I poorly described the first coupling part as being in the motor housing instead of being in the flywheel. That small, black sleeve is a "universal coupling" from what I've been able find out doing some research and that's what I'm missing from one end. Kato has them listed and I'll order a pair, one to replace the missing part and one for a spare. Thanks again, Louis!



That's OK Russ, glad to get it sorted out. That type of drive is driven by a very short shaft that has a cross-shaped fitting on one end. This mates with a black plastic coupler in a recess, in the end of the flywheels on the ends of the motor. This plastic coupler then also mates with a corresponding cross-shaped piece of plastic recessed inside the ends of the flywheels. There are as many drive versions as there are locomotives out there today!



Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16064 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/17/2018 :  6:02:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by desert drover
That's OK Russ, glad to get it sorted out. That type of drive is driven by a very short shaft that has a cross-shaped fitting on one end. This mates with a black plastic coupler in a recess, in the end of the flywheels on the ends of the motor. This plastic coupler then also mates with a corresponding cross-shaped piece of plastic recessed inside the ends of the flywheels. There are as many drive versions as there are locomotives out there today!



As I'm now finding out, Louis!



Country: USA | Posts: 8509 Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic: Ballasting Track Topic Next Topic: Life-Like Alco S2 Wheel Cleaning Ideas Needed  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.53 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000