Railroad Line Forums - YA3DP
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 3 | Anonymous Members: 1 | Guests: 189 ]  [ Total: 193 ]  [ Newest Member: PRRJim ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Startin' from Scratch
 YA3DP
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Choices Challenge Rock Deck Scow Topic Next Topic: Railroad Street Buildings
Page: of 13

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/25/2021 :  11:34:24 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Scott, thanks for looking in, still not 'there', yet.

Frank, You're missing an 'N'.

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

robert goslin
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/25/2021 :  10:53:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim. Maybe you should have taken the blue pill.
Life might have been easier.
Shame you're having such issues with the doors, but it will all come together in time. I'm still really enjoying seeing all the trial and error efforts. Just be patient.

And probably a good idea to put it aside for a bit. Wouldn't want an angry accident to happen to it.


Regards Rob

My current build.
http://railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53468

Country: Australia | Posts: 2795 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 01/25/2021 :  11:10:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
very nice recovery and a interesting solution.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5707 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2021 :  12:44:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by robert goslin

Jim. Maybe you should have taken the blue pill.
Life might have been easier.
Shame you're having such issues with the doors, but it will all come together in time. I'm still really enjoying seeing all the trial and error efforts. Just be patient.

And probably a good idea to put it aside for a bit. Wouldn't want an angry accident to happen to it.




Nah! Just can't get into the "ignorant bliss thing" Doors are working quite well.

I've moved on to the turntable build side as the long awaited bearings finally made it across the Pacific.


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2021 :  12:56:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, Thanks! I actually enjoy trying to build something different, than watching a train run around in circles. It keeps my mind active. Better than sitting on a couch watching TV, like most folks my age.

Jim



Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2021 :  5:59:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm having a little internet connection problems with the ice storm. Here the turntable that will match up to the roundhouse. It has a 260mm pit and 300mm edge to edge to the siding and the roundhouse. It'll swing a 10.25" bridge.




The pit is printed as 3 separate pieces. #1 rule with FDM 3D printing, YOU MUST START FROM A FLAT SURFACE! (in case you forgot, FDM = Filament Deposition Manufacturing). So you are looking at 3 design pieces glued together to build the pit.



Separately the 3 pieces took nearly 7 hours to print, as I print in very high resolution. They're glued together with Loctite Professional Super Glue, out in the shop with a protective respirator.

I decided that the turntable will always have track power, and the leads to the roundhouse will each be fed by autoreverser and a decoder controlled relay to turn on/off track power. Rather than the split ring used on the old DC turntables, I'd use a solid one piece outer ring. By doing so, I could also eliminate the brush type contacts of earlier designs. The outer ring rail would need to keep in constant contact with the moving table. The center of the table would get a non-brush contact as well. I printed a centering hub to get my alignment nearly exact. I put a lip on that hub to hold the ring in place as I slowly hand shaped a piece of code 100 Atlas flexrail into shape. After 4 or 5 attempts, I finally got one that was usable. I've used tube rolling equipment in the past, but they are not made to work with rail.



ON TARGET!





It takes as long to type the verbiage and shrink the photos as make some of the parts.

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

robert goslin
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/26/2021 :  11:24:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to your turntable build Jim.
I have always liked turntables. A simple but efficient idea.
Some people even put them in their garages these days, as they don't know how to back a car out.


Regards Rob

My current build.
http://railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53468

Country: Australia | Posts: 2795 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2021 :  12:05:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK Rob! Looks like the storm has settled down.


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2021 :  01:32:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
From where I left off, I 'formed' the outer rail to fit with the boundary of the centering plate. Then silver soldered the joining of the ends, and filed and sanded the joint smooth. The rail was positioned into place and again the super glue came along. I left gaps where no glue would get under the rail in 4 cardinal locations.Those would eventually be my 'drops' to one side of the bridge rails.




After that thoroughly dried, and dried some more. I drilled the 4 holes on the backside of rail, and soldered the drop wires (.032 in Phosphor Bronze) adding to the solidity of the rail installation for now.

I made a lower bridge part with an approximate 10mm shaft coming out of the bottom of the part. I used it to start checking clearances. The bridge bottom was about 1.5mm thick. The distance between the pit bottom and the top of the turntable is 19mm.



The code 100 is 2.5mm high, the bridge bottom is 1.5mm thick, so I've got 1mm to play with at the center. It starts to get interesting. My #1 goal was to design a turntable with a zero error tolerance. no dead spots, no false triggering of the automatic reversers. For the center electricsl connection I would use a couple of brass shim washers and a thrust bearing.



The brass shim washers were an obvious Fig Newton of my imagination. A brass 2.5mm thick washer in the required diameter was the best I could come up with. Add to that the 2mm flat thrust bearing.



then the second flat washer, and I would had eaten up 8.5mm of distance between the pit bottom and the lower bridge piece.



The side to side 'play' was very sloppy, and I had given away too much height real estate. Making the brass washers thinner was a non option. However, I did find some copper washers that I could try to shave a bit.

Time to bring out the heavy artillery



More to follow tomorrow.

Jim




Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2021 :  08:45:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's interesting to follow how you sort out problems in your construction projects. It looks like you are making progress with your turntable.

George


Fly Army

Country: USA | Posts: 16770 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 01/27/2021 :  09:50:19 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

I'll definitely hang around for the turn table build.


Frank

Country: USA | Posts: 6128 Go to Top of Page

Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 01/27/2021 :  09:55:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'll hang around too. Very interesting project...


Country: USA | Posts: 4143 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 01/27/2021 :  10:16:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Interesting way to make a TT.

Now, if you would have designed a counter sink in the bottom piece of the TT to fit that thrust bearing in you wouldn't have needed to mill down those copper washers.

Bernd


New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Country: USA | Posts: 3941 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2021 :  11:37:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"Interesting" is a nice way to put it George. More like scatterbrained!

Here is how the copper washers turned out, they are .5 mm (.040 in) thick. I was surprised at how well the Loctite Super Glue held them while I milled off 2 mm of copper.



Those milling lines look cool, but are not gouges in the copper. It would make a nice 'engine turned' dashboard effect.

Some Acetone cleaned the copper washers off the aluminum jig I used. The washer, thrust bearing, washer sandwich was still too thick, wobbly, and still offered no connection to the power bus. I knew I couldn't get the copper any thinner, and the thrust washer was the thinnest I could find. Location C4 of the data base sent me to snag a piece of .005 in. brass shim stock. I knew I had a thin brass washer somewhere!



I just had to make it.



Location E5 put me right on to the ball peen hammer.



A few taps around the perimeter



And I have my brass washer that will lower the assembly even more, give me a harder surface for the thrust bearing to ride on, and provide a solderable material to power the bridge through. I should have remembered this trick before milling the copper washers. I'll still end up using them. Those 'snaggy looking edges on the brass shim will flatten right out.

Jim



Take the red pill

Edited by - BurleyJim on 01/27/2021 2:07:01 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/27/2021 :  11:49:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Frank and Carl, I'm glad all you guys are hanging in here on this project.

Bernd, you are right, If I had made the bottom plate of the pit 5 or 6mm thick, recessing would have worked. A 6 mm thick bottom plate of this diameter would have taken days to print, and a lot of filament. I still needed a way to get power up to the rail.

Jim


Take the red pill

Edited by - BurleyJim on 01/27/2021 11:53:43 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 13 Previous Topic: Choices Challenge Rock Deck Scow Topic Next Topic: Railroad Street Buildings  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Previous Page | Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.62 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000