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 Rusty Stumps Cedar Shingles
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Author Previous Topic: Built from Scratch: Baldwin 8-18c 4-4-0 Topic Next Topic: TrainClowns Tip Of The Day, Custom Made Windows  

Railrunner130
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/23/2017 :  09:01:17 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
About a year ago I purchased some Rusty Stumps Cedar Shingles. I've used them a little bit and really like them. However, I'm looking for some advice on how to use them better.

1. The self-stick backing doesn't fully dry, forcing shingles to move when pressure is put on them. Yesterday I tried a layer of wood glue to prevent this. Does anyone have a better idea?

2. I've applied a few coats of Weather It! to the shingles, but that only dirties them. (And releases a really nice, cedar smell) Does anyone have any ideas on how to age them?

Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine"

Country: USA | Posts: 307

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/23/2017 :  10:15:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rail,

Did you have a smooth surface when you applied them? I've 'sealed' the surfaces before applying them, and they've been right where I stuck them about 2 years ago.

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 2325 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 07/23/2017 :  11:44:56 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I used the cedar shingles on my meat packing plant that I did for the annual challenge earlier this year. While I could force them to move a little it was not enough for me to worry, so I can't advise you because I did not try to glue them down.

I colored them with Bragdon powders before sticking them on. Various gray colors.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 2584 Go to Top of Page

quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/23/2017 :  12:11:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rail, In the instructions, it states that a little glue may be necessary. I use Walt's cedar shingles pretty much on all my builds. I always add a little white glue just to be on the safe side'. Chalks, pigments, A&I all work for aging. I prefer Pan Pastels the best on real cedar shingles'..


Ted

Country: USA | Posts: 4698 Go to Top of Page

ed k
Engine Wiper

Posted - 07/23/2017 :  12:43:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I agree, a little glue will due.
ed



Country: USA | Posts: 369 Go to Top of Page

friscomike
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 07/23/2017 :  2:58:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit friscomike's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Howdy folks,

I have had good luck with applying Rusty Stumps cedar shingles with 3M transfer adhesive. I used the adhesive with both the self adhesive and plain shingles.

I like the self adhesive shingles because they seem to hold together better for my application technique.

Have fun,
Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 588 Go to Top of Page

mabloodhound
Fireman



Posted - 07/23/2017 :  3:18:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I do the same as Mike and use transfer tape, applied to the roof and then add the cedar strips.
I color or weather the shingles while they are still in the sheets. Usually diagonal passes across them will give a varied weathered look when they get applied.
I really like Walt's real cedar shingles.


Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
“Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin
The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security

Country: USA | Posts: 6558 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/24/2017 :  1:29:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've used Walt's shingles and have had good results. For coloring I've 'generally' followed MikeC's coloring tutorial found in the Helping Hand section of Walt's web site. I've also used a light Payne's Grey watercolor wash https://www.docmartins.com/collections/synchromatic-transparent-bottles applied from the bottom of the roof to the roof peak. (Hold roof upside down during application to allow the wash to set in the seams to enhance shadows.)

I prefer to use the 3M Transfer Tape, but have also used a bit of white or yellow glue to stick the shingles into place.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7037 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 07/24/2017 :  8:43:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If need be, after laying down a strip of the shingles, apply a very small bit of CA glue along the very top edge of the shingle strip where it touches the roof. Let it dry a bit before applying the second row.

I stopped offering the non-adhesive shingles as the cedar broke apart as it's so thin.


Walt

Country: USA | Posts: 7225 Go to Top of Page

eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 07/26/2017 :  8:20:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Transfer tape as suggested earlier

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD91B7AO35E



Country: USA | Posts: 2977 Go to Top of Page

Railrunner130
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/27/2017 :  6:09:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the input guys!
Walt-
Weren't they available in different thicknesses as well at one point? I think a thicker piece wouldn't be as fragile. Removing the tape without breakage is quite a challenge. (For me anyway)



Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine"

Country: USA | Posts: 307 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 07/27/2017 :  7:24:57 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If I remember correctly, nstructions are included for peeling the backing with minimal breakage.

Being generally contrary I did not follow directions. What I found to work for me as to lay the strip down on my mat, and carefully peel a little bit of the backing up with the end of a knife. Then I held the end of the strip down with the point of the knife and peeled the backing off with my fingers, being careful not to lift the strip up at all. I had to peel it off at a very acute angle, holding the backing as close to horizontal as possible. Every inch or so I would stop, and move the knife along. With practice I could come close to doing a whole strip without breakage. Actually, I didn't mind if I had a few breaks because shorter sections were easier to apply and I would randomize the order a little to vary the weathering.

Any way you do it requires patience. I found "The Inner Mounting Flame" (Mahavishnu Orchestra/John McLaughln) very helpful.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 2584 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 07/31/2017 :  10:16:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit Rusty Stumps's Homepage  Reply with Quote
One thing always to do is PRIME THE SUB-ROOF no matter what the material. Wood will tend to have loose fibers which make it hard for the glue to stick. Cardstock also has a loose finish that can pull off. Styrene is the worst as it's slick and there is nothing for the glue to soak into.

I always prime the surface with a light spray of grey automotive primer. It dries fast and gives the best tooth for the adhesive to stick to.


Walt

Country: USA | Posts: 7225 Go to Top of Page
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