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Author Topic Next Topic: The Mills at Swan Bay Lumber Company - Build Log
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Posted - 01/04/2017 :  2:54:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Originally posted by George D

I like your door knob idea, Jeff. How'd you get everything so precisely lined up?


it was not really all that hard. I made the bridge fit the opening (which was already done when if was a flip up). I clamped the bridge in place with a piece of 1x2 that was longer than the bridge. The 1x2 was clamped on top of the track that was on the bridge with the ends of the 1x2 hanging over the ends of the bridge, that way it sat down on the rails and the tops of the rails were all flush. Then in installed two small hinges on the hinged end. The hinges are shimmed with 0.40" styrene between the bottom of the bridge and the hinges, that way if there is every a bump up or down I can add a thicker or thinner shim.

on the latch end I build the wood parts to hold the knob and the striker. I did not bore the hole in the striker wood until I had the knob installed. With the knob installed I measured and marked where the latch was on the striker wood, then I used a 1" bit and drilled a hole. I mounted the striker a little lower than the final position so that when it latched there was about a 0.30" difference in the rail height. to adjust the height on the latch end I use a large flat bladed screwdriver inserted in the slot of the striker plate to bend up that little adjustment tab. if for some reason I ever need to lower the tab I just bend it down.

to adjust the centering of the rails I made the bridge slightly offset to the wall, then I made a brass alignment foot with a slotted hole to make the fine tuning on lining up the rails horizontally. if they ever go out of alignment I just have to move the one foot. I could have made the bridge centered but then I would have to use two alignment guides and they would have to be spaced perfect and when the wood swells in the summer the bridge will get tight. the way I did it I would only have to adjust that one foot if the wood swells.

I am going to do an update video that will show how all this works soon. I think that video is way to go with updates and I may be doing that more than typing out long explanations.

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Posted - 01/24/2017 :  2:51:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Time for a little update. A busy work schedule has left little time for the RR, but there still has been some progress. Trains now can operate from the dump trestle up the switch back and back around to the door, where new drop gate will have to be built. Next I will be installing the lower level backdrop, which will be located 18” back from the front edge of the lower level. Before I can install the backdrop I need to do some basic scenery in an area that will be hard to get at once the backdrop and upper level is installed. Once the lower level scenery is in place as far as I need it I will start construction of the upper level.
Here is a coal train waiting in the siding while a work train arrives at the switch back. Those are not prototypical Manns Creek cars but for now they will do for testing stuff out. The work train will have to back into the siding next to the coal train after the coal train swaps ends with the locomotive and caboose, then when the coal train leaves the siding the work train will have to perform the same swap of its locomotive to the other end of the train. As a rule, locomotives are always on the front of the train.

One step of the construction that has been slow is spiking all the rail at the switch back. I declared that I was going to spike 4 spikes per tie and I am to be a man of my word. I figured that it will be easier to do all the spiking without the other level over my head. Every time I get 10-15 minutes I go down and spike a few more ties.
Here you can see what four micro spikes per tie looks like

I also started on the dual gauge track, another area I need to finish before I put in the upper level. For dual gauge I am doing Proto48 as the standard gauge spacing. Since I only need freight cars for standard gauge I figured why not Proto48. I picked up an Intermountain O scale 50 ton hopper car kit that I will be building as a C&O car and I ordered a pair of Proto48 trucks and couplers from Protocraft. The trucks are amazing and the couplers seem to work very well.
Protocraft Proto48 truck. This truck has full working brake rigging, opening journal box lids and ball bearings in the axles.

Spiking down dual gauge is interesting. I purchased some standard gauge ties, which look huge, and I am using Micro Engineering small spikes for the dual gauge since most of it will not be considered visible track. Actually most of the dual gauge track is visible, just not considered scenic layout area. The dual gauge track is mostly a visible fiddle yard that will only have some basic ground cover to make it look better than plywood and cork. Doing my first dual gauge turnout was (and still is) an adventure. I have one more full dual gauge turnout to do at the coke oven supply track and then a half dual gauge track at the coke coal dump siding. I will have to center the dual gauge track on the dump trestle that goes to the sizing plant so a standard gauge hopper will fit in the shed, but that will come much later.
Dual gauge curved turnout.

Edited by - Coaltrain on 07/11/2017 07:07:13 AM

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Posted - 01/24/2017 :  9:27:09 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looks nice!

Country: USA | Posts: 5254 Go to Top of Page


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Posted - 01/24/2017 :  10:56:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Completely and totally outstanding! Beautiful'...


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Posted - 01/28/2017 :  6:49:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
To help with the long hidden track running I got a Harbor Freight security camera set and installed one camera one each level of the track around the back of the furnace. The monitor has the option to have four cameras so I may get two more and have them face the opposite direction, but for now these will do.

Edited by - Coaltrain on 07/11/2017 07:05:10 AM

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Posted - 02/01/2017 :  4:57:55 PM  Show Profile  Send CieloVistaRy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Outstanding work as usual. Dual gauge turnouts.. is there nothing that defeats you?



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Posted - 03/20/2017 :  05:47:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I got to spend a little time working on the layout last week. I managed to get all the lower dual gauge track operating up to the point that it reaches what I call the middle level (the old original layout). I can now install the fascia on that side of the layout, which is important because part of the fascia will rise up and support the upper level on the ends.

I also got the second dual gauge turnout built and ready to install. This turnout was a replacement for an existing turnout that used to lead to the old hidden staging yard, now it will just be a short siding used for sand and clay delivery for the coke ovens. I am not sure how these products were delivered to the MC (in bulk or bagged), but I now will have a spot for them anyways.

Now I am moving to what I feel will be the hardest part of the dual gauge addition, converting the two turnouts on the only part of the layout that had finished scenery, which will include added a third rail out on the dump trestle. For now I am just going to convert the two turnouts and stop at that point so I move on to adding the upper level. So far I have pulled up the turnout to the coke dump trestle and I am going to solder on some PC board ties that will extend out to support the standard gauge rail, then I will remove the shorter PC Board ties and replace them with longer ties. This turnout is behind the engine house and will be buried in sand so the PC board ties will be hard to spot. The other turnout leading to the coal dump trestle will be the easiest conversion as it only needs a standard gauge rail laid alongside it, it will need to extra frogs or guard rails, and for that turnout all I have to do is unspike it and install new longer ties.

I also had to make a lot of changes to the backdrop on the “middle” level. I have had to patch some rather large hole that remained when it was part of the old HO layout. I have also had to make some cuts in it for the addition of the upper level. Originally I had a very tall Track Side Scenery photo backdrop that I have removed and will be replacing with a shorter new Track Side Scenery backdrop image. The new TSS backdrop also has a bit of the New River visible along the bottom edge and the opposite side mountain appears farther away, which will look more correct to represent Sewell.

Edited by - Coaltrain on 07/11/2017 06:47:02 AM

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Posted - 03/20/2017 :  4:49:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
excellent track work and nice overall progress.

It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris

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George D

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Posted - 03/20/2017 :  5:35:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice looking dual gauge turnout.


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Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/20/2017 :  8:25:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How is it working with Joey's backdrops? Is it the type of paper that will wrinkle if it gets wet during scenery? Curious as three of his 8 footers will do my whole layout.


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Posted - 03/20/2017 :  9:38:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

From viewing this the first time, to the many thereafter, I like what I see here. The nice looking Shay, the realistic scenery, and your progress. Your rolling stock "look" is what I like to model too. Everything as it should be and then some. Your attention to detail is outstanding. I will be following along as this progresses. Very nice.


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Michael Hohn

Posted - 03/20/2017 :  10:45:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Very nice work. I like the look of the light rails on wooden ties. Every detail is outstanding. I look forward to each installment as you progress.


Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

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Posted - 03/21/2017 :  3:52:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Originally posted by Chris333

How is it working with Joey's backdrops? Is it the type of paper that will wrinkle if it gets wet during scenery? Curious as three of his 8 footers will do my whole layout.

I think they work well, I put them up by myself but I would recommend a second pair of hands. I would advise not getting the backdrop wet, the ink will run. I cover the backdrop in the area I am doing scenery for protection. I also sprayed the surface with several very light coats of acrylic clear (Krylon Crystal Clear)

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Posted - 03/21/2017 :  5:35:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Following along, liking what I see.

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David Clark
Crew Chief

Posted - 03/25/2017 :  6:24:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking real nice!

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