Rethinking the faded effects. Tried another wash on the whitish side. Vallejo modelcolor wash rust, with some brown and white. Also mixed dark rust with brown and white and airbrushed it on to the sides to tone the white fade down but also tried it as a fade on the other side of the car. Original color shows on one piece of the data..
Faded white with a wash of rust/brown /white shows a more orange fade
rust/brown/white on the original color for a more redish fade..
IMHO, I like both for different reasons. The top picture is a lighter fade while the lower one is a nice middle fade. I could go with either and work up the weathering from that base. I’ve seen both versions while looking up distressed cars for my own weathering. I guess I'm no help in choosing a fav.
Curious why you have the tape jobs alongside the doors?
It's not only grasses and weeds I'm doing. Also a bit of weathering,something I really like.In the spare hours I'm working on a couple of projects. Having some MBW Spur 1 / Gauge 1 cars on hand I made a start on 2 of them. First coats are the fades, using a mixture of Vallejo Acrylic washes. White with some drops of the original color. Roof and additional straaks with several AK interaktive and Ammo enamel washes. Bit of Panpastels on the roof to..
Well a little bit about the materials used. First layer with a wash to fade the color. I do not like plain whites on the redish boxcar tone so I used white combined with dark rust..
The roof is entirely done with an AK interactive paneliner in this case the one for wintercamouflage because I do like the somewhat greenish color..
Because this car is in serice for a short time I did cut back on the fades and stick with some plain dirt and streaks..cars in service dirty up don't they. Did use the AK interactive straking grime for panzer grey this time. The tone is more brownish..
Streaking and cleaning done with an odourless thinner..AK or Ammo doesn't matter wich brand..the are much softer then the ones in the DIY shop. You could buy one out of an artist range..
What I think is the advantage this enamel products have, they dry pretty fast but the can be worked on after they are dry. Even after a couple of hours. The door for instance I didn't like the looks so I went over it after the photo shoot. You can't do that with acrylics. Oils could be used but in this case I like the faster drying time of the enamel based paints..For now I do let them dry for 24 hours before I add another layer..Didn't shoot a picture of the looks of the door yet..
Well with a brush dipped in odourless thiiner, tipped on a paper towel to have it just a bit moist I reworked the door I didn;t like..
Pretty happy with it now..so I worked my way around the car..both ends and the other side with the same AK product..
Because of the Europ signage and the fact the car is build in 1960 and only 4 years in service before they changed it in to UIC markings I didn't wanna overdo this one. Lined it up with the "53 build car..
With AK interactive interior streaking effects I added some dirt to these aluminium colored panels..
Also pinwashed a couple of the rivets with the same stuff..
Taking AK's Shafts grease and Bearings I added some grease effect on the wheelpods..