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Author Previous Topic: One Hare controlling two turnouts? Topic Next Topic: Tortoise and LED wiring
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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 01/02/2016 :  5:28:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Over the past few days I installed my first OC-1 quad DCC-only detector from Olin's Depot (upper left):



It had to go on the feed side of my block toggles, so I replaced the old wiring. Here it's indicating occupancy in Block 17 (EB main through Newburyport depot). The open-collector output is grounding the Oc17 circuit the same way my turnout contacts do. I haven't played with its adjustable occupancy threshold yet.



Looking east from Bexley yard, the 'high yellow' (Approach) aspect isn't ideal, but using bi-color LEDs is saving me enough time and money that I plan to get used to it. And I'm not even considering Approach Lighting; that would about double the complexity.



This is about the level of documentation I think I'll need down the line. I may revise this one more time as I build signals - as shown, 'stagger block' 17w will display 'double yellow' (Approach Slow) when 16w1 shows Stop. The correct aspect is 'yellow over red' (Approach). RR employees who might notice that won't be operating my layout very often, but it'll probably happen. And I'll know. I can do that if I use a 2nd SD-3 driver and a diode or two.



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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 01/02/2016 :  5:37:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
James,

This is so far over my head it's running around in deep space and I can't see it, but the indications are cool!

I still wonder about engineers seeing that upper head under the bridge, but I'm sure they'll get used to looking.

Congratulations!

Pete
in Michigan



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/03/2016 :  8:14:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If you think of the Circuitron SD-3s I'm using as black boxes which turn a bipolar LED red, yellow or green, everything else just grounds the proper Y or R inputs to display the aspects I want. This diagram shows how the 17w 'stagger block' can show Green/Green, Yellow/Red and Red/Red:



The 'High' head defaults to green, shows yellow when block 16 is occupied and red when block 17 is occupied. The 'Bottom' head defaults to green, but shows red when either 16 or 17 is occupied. The two diodes keep blocks 16 and 17 from affecting each other anywhere but at this signal driver.

At any rate, time to go build the actual 17w signal.



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/04/2016 :  11:48:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'd been procrastinating building signals while I wired; today I reminded myself why. The 'stagger block' signal 17w has taken me two or three hours already and is far from complete. Maybe the second will go faster...

Oregon Rail Supply's 'searchlight' parts come closest to what the B&M used, but I need to make some changes and some of the boughten parts are both more fragile and more clunky than those I can make myself. ORS heads & brackets are good, given that I'm settling for T-1 (3mm) LEDs instead of scale-diameter lenses. ORS platforms are better than I can do myself, but I sincerely wish I'd bought more of Free State Systems' etched ladder and platform sets before they folded.



ORS' handrails only work at the top of a ladder, and the B&M had platforms with handrails at each head. Detail Associates .010 x .018 flat brass bar to the rescue. Happily, I didn't melt any of the plastic while soldering the brass.



Here it's ready for ACC on the metal/plastic joints. LEDs, a mounting socket and paint tomorrow maybe.



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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 01/05/2016 :  9:06:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
A little more engineering to blog tonight:



I'd seen photos of people using IC sockets as signal connectors, but hadn't bookmarked the pages I purchased several Mil-Max '8-pin IC socket 0.3" spacing, 0.1" pitch' (DigiKey part ED90048-ND). I won't ever need more than 6 contacts, but the 8-pin parts can't really be cut down. Many different IC socket sizes are available.

I wanted to shim the signal up above the sockets, so I tried out my solvent cements on the plastic body: Weld-On acrylic cement bonded the two blocks of .100 x .125 Evergreen styrene visible between the pins just fine. Once I'd soldered the #30 LED leads into the sockets, I used MEK to bond the styrene signal base to the blocks. Then I soldered two pairs of telco 24 gauge to the appropriate pins on the fixed socket.



Plugged together, the two IC sockets are 3/8" on a side and 1/2" deep. I drilled two 1/8" holes about 1/8" apart, then cut a hole to fit in my 1/2" Homasote roadbed. Here I'm feeding the leads down the holes.



The signal needs a finial and paint and it's lit by the Diode Test function of my VoM, but it's a lot closer to done. It won't take a lot of wiring to hook up the SD-3s, maybe tomorrow.



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BurleyJim
Fireman

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Posted - 01/05/2016 :  10:23:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
James,

I've been following this thread the past few months. I've really got to commend you on the documentation you have been consistent on. I am amazed at the number of layouts that I've seen where the builder has nearly no idea what they've put together. When problems occur, it can easily become fatal. those Chubb OD's look like they did the trick for you. I switched all of mine to the DCC version, but I again built them from the bare board, and most of the components off of eBay/China. Came out to about $8 each, the pulse transformer is the price driver there. Again, congrats on the super job.

There is an eBay guy that sells bipolar red/green 'dwarfs' reasonable. I'll PM you the link if I find it.

Jim



Edited by - BurleyJim on 01/05/2016 10:25:41 PM

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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 01/05/2016 :  10:31:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nicely done, James, and I'll echo Jim's words on documentation.

I'm in awe of this, and will probably never understand the engineering or the hieroglyphics (my brother's the EE/rocket scientist, not me), but I am awed by the results. Bravo!

Pete
in Michigan



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quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/05/2016 :  11:49:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim

James,

I've been following this thread the past few months. I've really got to commend you on the documentation you have been consistent on. I am amazed at the number of layouts that I've seen where the builder has nearly no idea what they've put together. When problems occur, it can easily become fatal. those Chubb OD's look like they did the trick for you. I switched all of mine to the DCC version, but I again built them from the bare board, and most of the components off of eBay/China. Came out to about $8 each, the pulse transformer is the price driver there. Again, congrats on the super job.

There is an eBay guy that sells bipolar red/green 'dwarfs' reasonable. I'll PM you the link if I find it.

Jim


Jim please send me that info on the dwarf signals'..THANKS'.



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2016 :  08:03:26 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thank you, Jim and Pete. The documentation is organic to my 'design, THEN build' process. Life is too short (and my back & knees turn 60 in a week) to do this by crawling around under the layout, muttering 'ok, I need another wire from here to over there' and shouting '%$#@&^' when I burn another few LEDs up. I learned from building the first interlocking, so Newburyport's design got revised several times. Implementing Newburyport's signals pointed out several errors in my first design for the bi-directional double track in Bexley, so I'm working on that in parallel.

Ted, I decided to make dwarf signals rather than buy. It took maybe 3-4 hours over a couple of days to make seven of these:

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39866

[edit: fixed a typo much later]



Edited by - jbvb on 03/16/2016 2:12:31 PM

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BurleyJim
Fireman

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Posted - 01/06/2016 :  08:59:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Ted,
Here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-HO-SCALE-DWARF-SIGNAL-LEDS-3MM-BIPOLAR-RED-GREEN-/231428042708?hash=item35e22fafd4:g:XzIAAOxyqOxRuk~-
and with a 45 degree cut on a piece of tightly fitting piece of Evergreen plastic tubing and a little silver paint....



About a buck a signal.

Jim



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/06/2016 :  10:31:16 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bulletin Order #4, January 6, 2016:

Eastward Automatic Signal 17W at MP 36.0, Newburyport, West has been placed in service.





Block 17 occupied, Stop.



Past the end of double track and onto the drawbridge: Caution. The yellow might improve with adjustment.



Into the staging yard and Clear again.

These are screenshots of my first try at making a video with my DSLR. It isn't a very good video camera, and then I found out my video editing tool got broken when I last updated my OS.

And yes, I forgot to put a number plate on it.



Edited by - jbvb on 01/06/2016 10:34:56 PM

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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 01/07/2016 :  10:02:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Cool! Congratulations!

Pete
in Michigan



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MarkF
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 01/07/2016 :  11:48:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
James, first let me congratulate you on the progress you are making with your signaling project. Eventually I plan to tackle a signaling/CTC project myself, so I very interested in following along.

Above, you talk about mounting your signals with IC sockets. This is something I am very interested in. I started building my signals some time ago and plan to resume that project in the near future and plan to also use IC sockets to 'plug' the signals into the layout. I would be interested in seeing more pictures and detail of how you went about this.

Thanks for documenting and sharing your work with us. Much of what you write goes way over my head for now, but when the time comes and I get serious about getting the signals working, I'm certain I'll refer back to this thread for some knowledge.


Mark

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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/08/2016 :  5:06:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thank you, Mark & Pete. I'm building a couple of 3-light interlocking signals with better photography of the socket work. Because I'm just plugging one socket into another, the pins aren't held strongly - a light impact will knock the signal right over, which I believe is what I want. Somebody who knew more about IC nomenclature might be able to find a 'dummy IC' with pins shaped so they'd be gripped more tightly.

I'm concerned to find that the Oregon Rail Supply website (www.oregonrail.com, printed on packaging) is not resolvable in DNS today. I know the founder passed in Aug. 2015; at the Portland National Train Show, I met his widow at the ORS booth. They had product to sell and she was intent on continuing. There isn't anything else on the market that suits my B&M prototype as well. I thought I had my needs covered, but I just found out the signal heads in part #102 have smaller targets and are molded differently from those in the 'searchlight' range (#125, #127 & #130).

Question: Before I order any #129 "Single Searchlight Bridge Unit", can anyone tell me the contents, and confirm that the head molding is the same as #125 "Single Searchlight", #127 "Two Target Searchlight Signal" and #130 "Triple Target Single"?



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BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/08/2016 :  9:29:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
James, Check these out... http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-x-Double-Row-2x4Pin-2-54mm-Male-Pin-Header-IC-Connectors-/311101636253?hash=item486f1a3e9d:g:R4oAAOSwd0BVta3Z

I used the above into an 8 pin DIP IC socket and they worked like a champ. I used copper tubing for the mast pipe, soldered to one of the pins as an anchor. Notice the left front leg is missing. I cut that one as the 'key'. On the topside, I bent that pin toward the center as the anchor point. After getting the four #30 wires through the mast pipe and soldering to the pins, I dabbed the upper base with JB Weld.

I need to add a ladder, and a nameplate, and it's ready to plug in to the socket. That's an NJ triple target.

Jim



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