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 Model Putty or Light Hydrocal Plaster to Fill Gap?

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Bruce Scott Posted - 05/28/2020 : 05:16:30 AM
I am expanding a diorama and need to fill in along a 20" long space between the main base and the new extension's base. There is a linear, though irregular, gap between the two pieces that range from 1/8" to 1/4" wide in places that I must fill in. (The base heights are 1/2" tall.) The two bases are Locktite glued on top of Foamboard. Am considering filling the gap with either Modeling Putty or Light Hydrocal Plaster.
Would one product be better than the other for filling this gap? Why?
10   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Bruce Scott Posted - 05/28/2020 : 11:48:24 PM
Thank you everyone! I will study all these good suggestions.
Ensign Posted - 05/28/2020 : 7:50:58 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Jbarsie

I would recommend painters caulk. it more flexible than hydrocal and sculptamold. It'll fill 1/4" gaps no problem. Much less likely to crack.



I agree with John!
Way easier to apply as well, just point your caulking gun into the gap and filler up.

Greg Shinnie
darrylhuffman Posted - 05/28/2020 : 6:37:46 PM
I stuff small pieces of tissue or paper towels into the gap.

I then wet the tissue pieces and apply a thin coat of plaster.

After it dries, I paint it an earth color and sprinkle on some fine dirt.




k9wrangler Posted - 05/28/2020 : 12:34:29 PM
I agree on the caulk, be sure to find a PAINTABLE variety for best results.
Jbarsie Posted - 05/28/2020 : 12:21:01 PM
I would recommend painters caulk. it more flexible than hydrocal and sculptamold. It'll fill 1/4" gaps no problem. Much less likely to crack.
tloc Posted - 05/28/2020 : 09:50:29 AM
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim

How about using the 'non expanding' Great Stuff Windows and Doors foam in a can? Use it to fill-in between the two. After a day of drying, shave it even. Then paint, ballast, whatever, like it was the rest of the foam you're using. Here's a little tip, That Great Stuff applicator is a sticky mess after you use it. If you let it dry, the rest of the can is useless. So, run a little lacquer thinner through that screw-on applicator. The foam will dissolve and wipe clean. Turn the can upside down and dunk the nozzle on top of the can into a little lacquer thinner and it will wash out that small amount of foam left in the nozzle. About 4 OZ of lacquer thinner is enough to save the Great Stuff for reuse.

Jim



The above is what I used, worked great.

TomO
deemery Posted - 05/28/2020 : 09:41:18 AM
For modelers putty, I really like the Vallejo product. But for filling your gap, I'd suggest the old classic, Durham's Water Putty.

dave
desertdrover Posted - 05/28/2020 : 09:29:48 AM
You can't go wrong using Sculptamold, if you've never used it before, it is a dry, white, non-toxic compound that combines the best features of clay, plaster, and paper mache, it does not shrink, and is durable for diorama use, all model railway scenery use. Just add water to dry mix Sculptamold. Mix together and it sets in 30 minutes. Then apply your ground cover as usual.
BurleyJim Posted - 05/28/2020 : 07:39:04 AM
How about using the 'non expanding' Great Stuff Windows and Doors foam in a can? Use it to fill-in between the two. After a day of drying, shave it even. Then paint, ballast, whatever, like it was the rest of the foam you're using. Here's a little tip, That Great Stuff applicator is a sticky mess after you use it. If you let it dry, the rest of the can is useless. So, run a little lacquer thinner through that screw-on applicator. The foam will dissolve and wipe clean. Turn the can upside down and dunk the nozzle on top of the can into a little lacquer thinner and it will wash out that small amount of foam left in the nozzle. About 4 OZ of lacquer thinner is enough to save the Great Stuff for reuse.

Jim
David J Buchholz Posted - 05/28/2020 : 06:09:10 AM
I would fill the gap with the same foam that the bases are made of first. The apply the hydrocal on the surfaces.


I would not trust the hydrocal alone as a joint filler could flex and crack when the sections are inevitably leaned on.


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