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T O P I C    R E V I E W
railman28 Posted - 06/12/2012 : 02:00:55 AM
Most of this spring I've spent my hobby time on procurement and planning. My layout is about 23 years old and needs some love. It needs its scenery refreshed, a good cleaning, buildings repaired and track maintenance. All of which has been delayed by the knowledge that I wanted to change a few things to ease maintenance, improve running, improve presentation and be more correct for my time period. The biggest change to make the layout correct for my time period will be to replace all turnouts to stub points. But here is what my current track plan kinda looks like;


The layout layout currently doesn't have any Three way switches on it. This drawing was a planning sketch that most accurately shows my original layout.
This is what I hope it will become;

As you can see the most obvious change is the orientation of the turntable roundhouse. But also the passing track at Beaver Hill has been moved so that the south turnout is reachable for maintenance. The same reasoning lead to the log dump entry being moved.
This next view won't impress any of the fine craftsman here but it show me testing these drawing on the layout to see if they would actually work. It appears that they will;



The next step is to see exactly how much room my new turntable will take. So I will now take time to build it and escape the mud bog that planning can become. I'm using Freshwater Models' Sellers Turntable kit. Here's a progress shot;


As this kit is no longer made and Dave and Craig have already ran detailed building treads on this kit (which I have found very helpful) I'll just share progress shots here and then.
Any and all comments are welcomed.
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
railman28 Posted - 05/14/2019 : 2:19:49 PM
Bernd, Andre, Thanks for the comments. I'll have to think about the running boards. I think they are 0.030". I'll have to check/ .010 would too thin for strength. Then there are casting issues too.

Bob
OK Hogger Posted - 05/10/2019 : 09:39:40 AM
Looking great, Bob!

Running boards: Simply file a bevel on the underside of the edges. Once painted, it will appear much thinner for its thickness will be disguised. Doing this, the strength remains but the visual will make it look thinner in profile. I've used this trick with styrene and it works great.

Andre
Bernd Posted - 05/10/2019 : 07:44:57 AM
Looking good Bob. Slight critique on the running board. It looks a little thick. Looks like it's about .020" or thicker. Would .010" work or is it to thin? Other than that "A-OK".

Bernd
railman28 Posted - 05/10/2019 : 12:17:36 AM
As I was sanding and cleaning up what I hoped would be the finals at last, I found a couple of flaws. One of which I couldn't live with. I was able to fix them, thanks again to the power of Fusion 360. So before I take off on a weekend of train chasing I dressed up the boiler to see how she would look.




Kinda looking like an engine.

Bob
railman28 Posted - 05/01/2019 : 4:32:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by masonamerican

The crossheads looks great!

I see what you mean that they can fall off. A small lip should take care of that on the production ones. On the ones you already have a thin brass plate soldered on should stop them from falling off.

Håkan



Thanks Håkan,
There's not enough Clearance between the crosshead and siderods for a slim plate. I have thinned the crosshead to make room and ordered a reprint.

Bob
masonamerican Posted - 05/01/2019 : 4:25:43 PM
The crossheads looks great!

I see what you mean that they can fall off. A small lip should take care of that on the production ones. On the ones you already have a thin brass plate soldered on should stop them from falling off.

Håkan
Bernd Posted - 04/29/2019 : 5:36:30 PM
quote:
Originally posted by railman28



Thank you, Bernd. I appreciate your support. I guess neither of us are making friends over there. think you'll do a fine job on the Mikado. You have the skills. Yes, I would 3d print it. And if THEY would of just asked I would of converted MR plans to a 3d drawing so that anybody who wanted could print it out. But no one asked did they.

I want to see your Mikado.

Bob



You're welcome Bob. Always like to support like minded modelers. I don't care about making friends on that forum, especially from the ones that always show up to make comments on things they don't even seem to be interested in. I'm going to keep plugging away at it. I was surprised Joe used my pictures in the magazine. Was a bit surprised.

Thanks for the compliment on the skills. Took a while to acquired those. Check the PM I sent you. I've got a couple of other Mikado projects mixed in with the frame project.

Bernd
railman28 Posted - 04/29/2019 : 3:56:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Bernd

Bob,

Just catching up on your build here. I like what I'm seeing. As you know I've been a bit busy on the other forum with the etch thread. BTW, I want to thank you for backing me. Much appreciated.

I'm working on seeing if I can cut out a frame from for a 2-8-2 on the Sherline CNC mill. The frame is from the article Gordon Odegard wrote on scratch building a USRA Mikado starting in the October 1982 MR.

Bernd



Thank you, Bernd. I appreciate your support. I guess neither of us are making friends over there. think you'll do a fine job on the Mikado. You have the skills. Yes, I would 3d print it. And if THEY would of just asked I would of converted MR plans to a 3d drawing so that anybody who wanted could print it out. But no one asked did they.

I want to see your Mikado.

Bob
Bernd Posted - 04/29/2019 : 3:46:29 PM
Bob,

Just catching up on your build here. I like what I'm seeing. As you know I've been a bit busy on the other forum with the etch thread. BTW, I want to thank you for backing me. Much appreciated.

I'm working on seeing if I can cut out a frame from for a 2-8-2 on the Sherline CNC mill. The frame is from the article Gordon Odegard wrote on scratch building a USRA Mikado starting in the October 1982 MR.

Bernd
railman28 Posted - 04/26/2019 : 02:30:34 AM
Thank you Mike,
I appreciate it. I see I forgot a picture




Bob
Michael Hohn Posted - 04/25/2019 : 10:24:56 PM
Bob,

Your newest boiler is a winner. Good decision on the rivets. The only ones needed are those keeping our attention riveted to your thread.

Mike
railman28 Posted - 04/25/2019 : 8:00:12 PM
Today was a rather productive day at the work bench. First yesterday UPS delivered my final boilers, I primed one gray, taped it and test fitted it. It was perfect;



I then started working on the Mechanism again.
The side rods were striking the back of the crossheads so I redesigned the side rods thinner.
In this shot the new ones are one the left;



The new drive rods had to be fitted, that took a couple of hours but there are no binds in motion. That accomplished I moved onto the Main drive rods and the cross heads.
This is where I sweat bullets. Tapping for a 1 mm screw.

Sorry the picture was a bite fuzzy.
But it all worked out;


There's still work to be done here but when the wheels go around and around the crosshead slides back and forth just like it should.

Oh I almost forgot. I had the boilers printed in Shapeways finest material. Here's a close-up;



And, I'm not missing the Rivets

Bob, who's going to see "End Game" tonight.



railman28 Posted - 04/20/2019 : 12:34:13 PM
quote:
Originally posted by masonamerican

Sounds like a good approach.
Need the rivets to be clear? My thought is to apply them before painting

Keep up the good work!
Håkan



Håkan, That's a good thought. No I don't need them to be clear just not black. But it should be alright if I paint them Russia Iron first and then something to shine up the top surfaces of the rivets.

Bob
masonamerican Posted - 04/20/2019 : 01:35:25 AM
Sounds like a good approach.
Need the rivets to be clear? My thought is to apply them before painting

Keep up the good work!
Håkan
masonamerican Posted - 04/20/2019 : 01:29:05 AM
Sounds like a good approach.
Need the rivets to be clear? My thought is to apply them before painting

Keep up the good work!
Håkan

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