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T O P I C    R E V I E W
railman28 Posted - 06/12/2012 : 02:00:55 AM
Most of this spring I've spent my hobby time on procurement and planning. My layout is about 23 years old and needs some love. It needs its scenery refreshed, a good cleaning, buildings repaired and track maintenance. All of which has been delayed by the knowledge that I wanted to change a few things to ease maintenance, improve running, improve presentation and be more correct for my time period. The biggest change to make the layout correct for my time period will be to replace all turnouts to stub points. But here is what my current track plan kinda looks like;

The layout layout currently doesn't have any Three way switches on it. This drawing was a planning sketch that most accurately shows my original layout.
This is what I hope it will become;

As you can see the most obvious change is the orientation of the turntable roundhouse. But also the passing track at Beaver Hill has been moved so that the south turnout is reachable for maintenance. The same reasoning lead to the log dump entry being moved.
This next view won't impress any of the fine craftsman here but it show me testing these drawing on the layout to see if they would actually work. It appears that they will;

The next step is to see exactly how much room my new turntable will take. So I will now take time to build it and escape the mud bog that planning can become. I'm using Freshwater Models' Sellers Turntable kit. Here's a progress shot;

As this kit is no longer made and Dave and Craig have already ran detailed building treads on this kit (which I have found very helpful) I'll just share progress shots here and then.
Any and all comments are welcomed.
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
railman28 Posted - 04/20/2019 : 12:34:13 PM
Originally posted by masonamerican

Sounds like a good approach.
Need the rivets to be clear? My thought is to apply them before painting

Keep up the good work!

Håkan, That's a good thought. No I don't need them to be clear just not black. But it should be alright if I paint them Russia Iron first and then something to shine up the top surfaces of the rivets.

masonamerican Posted - 04/20/2019 : 01:35:25 AM
Sounds like a good approach.
Need the rivets to be clear? My thought is to apply them before painting

Keep up the good work!
masonamerican Posted - 04/20/2019 : 01:29:05 AM
Sounds like a good approach.
Need the rivets to be clear? My thought is to apply them before painting

Keep up the good work!
railman28 Posted - 04/17/2019 : 2:49:59 PM
Originally posted by deemery

I see your point! (or I would, if you could get the rivets to print correctly :-) :-) )


Dave, On checking their WEB page I see that Archer has a new product design for 1/72 Aircraft modelers. the Rivets appear to be clear resin, the rivet head are the same size as I was printing and the spacing would work. So maybe you will see Rivets.

deemery Posted - 04/15/2019 : 3:55:47 PM
I see your point! (or I would, if you could get the rivets to print correctly :-) :-) )

railman28 Posted - 04/15/2019 : 3:25:33 PM
Originally posted by deemery

I'd be tempted to write off all the 3D printed rivets and just go with Archer decals. That's so I could sand down the surface if necessary.


I agree, The Archer (and Micro Mart) decals are better than trying to print 3d rivets in the vast majority of situations were the rivet is painted. On this boiler they are not but reflect light brightly.

Thank you for the support

deemery Posted - 04/15/2019 : 3:09:55 PM
I'd be tempted to write off all the 3D printed rivets and just go with Archer decals. That's so I could sand down the surface if necessary.

railman28 Posted - 04/15/2019 : 2:58:16 PM
Thanks Dave,

And then Shapeways rose to their feet and with an Arch-angel voice shouted "Thou shall not Pass!!!".

Ok, enough of that. Shapeways computer didn't accept the rivets on the curved surface. I tried every repair software I have and got the same results. As long as the surface was flat, like the test I ran the row of rivets was fine but the rivets on curved surfaces were blown away.

So I have to accept less details;

This joining of the Boiler Jacket sheets was standard practice in my era. No one has successfully modeled it. I had hoped to raise the bar here as I did with my frame but, now, the boiler will be just as good as everybody's else's.


deemery Posted - 04/15/2019 : 10:12:37 AM
Happy Birthday, Bob!

Bill Gill Posted - 04/15/2019 : 07:03:12 AM
Amen to that!
railman28 Posted - 04/14/2019 : 11:50:44 PM
And Bob said; Let there be rivets! And rivets appeared upon the boiler and it was good to his eyes. And it was the 205th body and the 76th sketch. And the boiler was finished. And he rested from his works, until Shapeways tells him it's all wrong.

railman28 Posted - 04/14/2019 : 7:07:58 PM
Andre, thank you, I really appreciate your comments.

Mike, Thank you. Yes, it's a Very good feeling indeed.

Dave, That's a good idea. I regularly use ACC to strengthen UN-FUD so it should do the same for the treads. Thanks!!!

Thanks again

deemery Posted - 04/14/2019 : 11:20:37 AM
Bob McGlone suggests putting a bit of thin CA into tapped styrene, and then retapping. That reinforces the tap threads in his experience. Might be worth considering for your UN-FUD, too.

This has been a fascinating project!

Michael Hohn Posted - 04/14/2019 : 10:56:06 AM
Very nice, Bob. What a good feeling when everything fits as it should.
OK Hogger Posted - 04/14/2019 : 12:47:05 AM
WOW! What a bonanza! No wonder you were stoked!

It's all looking very good. It's going to be fun to watch this as it starts coming together.

Good work Bob!


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