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  • #46
    Looking good Rich.

    New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds


    • #47
      Nice progress Rich. You are a ball of fire with this build. Did I say quick?

      Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast


      • #48
        Thanks for the comments and for following Phillip, Dave G., Dave B, Bernd, and Louis.

        Dave B. ~ Making the freight doors is really a simple process, no jigs involved.
        I merely make one of these doors in about 15 minutes. In fact, I prefer them over laser-cut doors that one can purchase.
        The fact is, laser-cut doors have burn marks along the edges where they were cut into carrier sheets, and I find them
        difficult to weather, especially if you wish to have a light color. The burn marks show much darker than light.

        I simply cut a square piece of the 0.25 thick chipboard, using a ruler and a square, ( like the small woodpecker square in my above picture ) .
        Trim the edges, making sure it's square, then cut lengths of 2 x 6's or whatever widths of stripwood you may wish to use, and glue them to the chipboard with gel CA.
        I used to use Elmer's Titebond II, but the gel CA allows you to work much faster and it sticks much better than any other glue. But, any glue that you use will work.
        For the trim pieces on my freight doors, I use 1 x 6's along the outside trim and something smaller for the crosscut corner boards., like a 1 x 3.
        For the latches, I use something al little smaller, like a 1 x 2, just a short piece, and glue them on. Some modelers have used fine wire to make handles,
        or a piece of small chain fit across both doors, to give an added effect, which is a nice detail. But for these, I went with just a small piece of wood.

        Doors of all types can be constructed, but I will give you a tip here. I have collected quite a few Craftsman kits. When I get them, I take pictures of the cast doors
        in the kits, and save the pictures on my computer, or you can scan them and save the scans. When I want to make a few different types of doors, I bring up the
        picture on my computer and use that as a guide when I construct the door I want to make. See the following picture as an example:

        Click image for larger version

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        You can see that the door in the picture is approximately 10.0 feet in width. Looking at my sketch above, I need to make my door about 7' - 3" in width.
        No problem, just use a lesser number of vertical boards, trim attached as planned, then trim the outer edges to match the length and width of your opening.
        Note: On cutting the stripwood to length, I used my Chopper by Northwestern or my exacto knife. or one can use a razer saw, if you wish to have jagged board ends.
        And to make a freight door like the one in the above picture, you can use a window from Grandt Line or Tichy or simply attach thin stripwood for the vertical
        mollions, then trim that with your 1 x wood. That's basically all I do to make my doors. Hope this helps anyone.



        • #49
          Click image for larger version

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          These freight doors are only weathered with Hunterline Driftwood stain. No powders, nothing else. I may westher them somewhat darker as I apply more washes to my building walls
          at a later time. And I am not finished with the lower brick part of the wall yet either.



          • #50
            What triggered an idea in my head was that you took a picture of the door sitting on a scale ruler. Sounds like a good idea to always include a ruler in the picture. Gives a perspective of relative size to work with. If nothing else, instant size of what you are looking at.
            Home of the HOn3 North Coast Railroad, along the shores of Lake Ontario.


            • #51
              As for the picture shown above, I started with several coats of Floquil Driftwood Stain, beginning with first coat applied by slightly shaking the bottle, not stirring.
              This gives a subtle approach for coloring of the initial stark white hydrocal, letting the color dry slowly before another coat is applied. First coat I applied was over
              the entire walls. Each coat thereafter was dabbed on randomly using a paint brush over different areas of the walls, after slightly stirring the stain. A total of four
              successive coats were applied before any other stain was used, drying between each coat. I did not seal the plaster before staining. The instructions for doing this
              color application can be found in any of Thomas A. Yorke kits. He used Floquil Driftwood Stain, Floquil Walnut Stain, Floquil Mahogany Stain and Floquil Teak
              Stains. I wanted to try this method of coloring using these stains to see how it would appear rather than using anything else. I really like the way it turned out.

              The brick portion of the wall has two 50/50 washes of Deco Art Americana Heritage Brick and Georgia Clay craft paints applied with a brush. The concrete part of the
              brick wall has Floquil Driftwood Stain on it and I think the dirtiness is just from my handling of it. I might leave it as is.

              Note: I uploaded the above picture to show the scratchbuilt doors more closely. It is coming up soon where I lost certain pictures that show when I started the
              coloring of the hydrocal walls. It was unfortunate because I liked the looks of each layer as it was applied.
              Perhaps I can do the same coloring process on another build in the future.



              • #52

                Great coloring in post #49 of the wall and two doors. That block wall looks a lot better copied in hydrocal than the original metal one. They look to be more even in their depth.

                New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds


                • #53

                  I've long been intrigued by the soft, subtle weathering you accomplish with your buildings. It sounds like you've learned a lot of your methods from building craftsman kits. The final results are you're own of course.

                  I'm really favorably struck by the stonework. Really nice colors. The brick is a good color also. I think I'll search out the paints you used for my next brick project; I think I already have one.


                  Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin


                  • #54
                    Nice weathering!


                    • #55
                      Hello Rich. Nice to see you posting a new build again. Been a while.
                      And an excellent one to re-create. All those extra goodies you picked up on e-Bay, look really nice.
                      As always we appreciate all the work that goes into a detailed build. Certainly is helpful for all of us, and can always learn something new.
                      An at least posting photos is far easier now.

                      Regarding the brick foundation. Not sure why they would have heavy stone blocks, sitting on bricks, but then again, I'm not a stonemason.
                      And I think, once the loading docks are added you can 't see the foundation anyhow.
                      Just curious.

                      Will be avidly following along.
                      Regards Rob

                      Despite the cost of living, it's still popular

                      My current build.



                      • #56

                        The doors and and the wall look great! Thanks for the descriptions and pictures. Nice idea of cataloging other model parts.



                        • #57
                          The last photo is perfect! The coloring, the doors, the stone and brick ....terrific!!!


                          • #58
                            Thanks for the comments and the following Dave B., Bernd, Mike, Fred, Rob, Scott and Dave G.

                            Rob ~ Yeah, the brick looks ok, but I never frett much on what a manufacturer puts into their models.
                            Actually, I never thought about it until you mentioned it.
                            Since I changed how I am constructing this by switching around the buildings, I'm not going to have a loading
                            dock in front of that wall, so it will be visable. I will have to make adjustments and further coloring on it though.

                            Thanks for looking all.



                            • #59
                              As others have said Rich it is pretty much perfect. Colors, textures, weathering all work together to make for a very realistic build!


                              • Pennman
                                Pennman commented
                                Editing a comment
                                Thanks very much for following and for your fine comments on my modeling.
                                PS: I was one of the responders to your "latest demise" but I'm glad you are still with us.
                                At least we know we have friends and fellow modelers who care


                            • #60
                              Hi Rich, 5 pages in 5 days !! I only jump on here once a week, might have to do a mid week check in. I be following along, I'm a sucker for plaster brick or stone walls, like the different mix of building material used in this kit plus the twist your putting on it. Keep up the great work.