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How bad can scratches, old solder & oxidation really be? Rebuilding a Westside Models Co. HO scale H-7 4-6-2 Great Northern Vandy Loco...

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  • How bad can scratches, old solder & oxidation really be? Rebuilding a Westside Models Co. HO scale H-7 4-6-2 Great Northern Vandy Loco...

    Hi Tinkerer's & maniac builders~,

    Like me or hate me, I thought this time I'd just post a bunch of pics from a build I did a few years ago showing that brass oxidation, ridiculous solder blobs & scratches can still make a pretty cool runner and conversation piece around any layout.

    While I noticed a couple pics out of sequence (no worries) I know you guys have an IQ over me and will figure it out by the next pic. I'm just going to let the pics speak for themselves and if you have a question(s) or thought then lay it on me!

    This is a bit long (my apologies), but as always I hope these pics either inspire you to do yours or give you ideas on how to tackle the really tough job of figuring out how to add full Dcc sound and a ton of working lights and all wheel pickups to a Vanderbilt type steam engine with no visible wires showing while on the tracks. The only dumb question is the one not asked.

    Let's see how this thread does? Thanx Thom...


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    The End! I'm sorry the last pic of the firebox is blurry. Thanx Thom...
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Beautiful workmanship, I hate you!

    Jim
    Take the red pill

    Comment


    • #3
      You have mastered the art of rebuilding, repairing and painting locomotives.
      Great job!

      Comment


      • #4
        I agree with Jim and Rick on the rebuild. Looks like you vapor blasted the model to clean it up.

        Always interested in view the frames to see how they made those. The u-joints always fascinate me too. The connection between the ball and the shaft for the drive shat is of such small diameter yet the part between the two balls is so large. Doesn't make sense. I've always had this urge to try and make one but with .039" diameter stainless steel wire and balls made from brass. Going to try that out on a Hobbytown drive for an Alco PA I've been gathering parts for.

        Bernd
        New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank you Big Jim, Handsome Rick & Astute Bernd~,

          B~ Yes the Aluminum Oxide 220 grit I use does a pretty good job cleaning up brass (also cast & plastic) models. I love it mostly for removing the extra solder blobs and to clean up the joints prior to painting.

          When the Oxide gets too dirty tho, It increases the sonic cleaning afterwards (that's the dirty ring around the collar on model). I now run a big box with 40 lbs of grit so it takes a long while now before I have to change.

          As for the U-joints/motor. Both gearbox/shaft/motor all in good condition and ran well. I just noticed a slight wobble and it turned out to be a couple loose screws on the shaft. So I tightened and all ran smooth again.

          Thanx Thom...

          Comment


          • #6
            Excellent work.
            Karl Scribner-Curmudgeon

            Cedar Swamp
            SW of Manistique, MI

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree with all before me. I can't keep up with all your locomotive re-do's. Everyone of your re-builds have been excellent workmanship.


              Louis L&R Western Railroad
              Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

              Comment


              • #8
                I'll join the crowd admiring your work. When I first saw the side view of engine and tender, I thought "don't they usually build the engine and tender to the same scale?" But then I saw the prototype photo. Was this a case of an older loco inheriting a tender from something that only ran in the wide open spaces, or were new tenders built for longer distances between fuel/water stops?
                James

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by jbvb View Post
                  I'll join the crowd admiring your work. When I first saw the side view of engine and tender, I thought "don't they usually build the engine and tender to the same scale?" But then I saw the prototype photo. Was this a case of an older loco inheriting a tender from something that only ran in the wide open spaces, or were new tenders built for longer distances between fuel/water stops?


                  James,
                  You get it! Yes railroads had a whole check list of requirements when ordering or building or kitbashing experimental locos through the decades of the steam era. Horse power for the grades, fuel consumption, water stops and track/bridge radius' and weight loads and wyes and turn tables. All played a part in deciding how a engine looked and what size the tender would be.

                  For example when you look at Santa Fe locos the big articulates and custom built ones. They had long ass engines with the tiniest tenders! Why not big long tenders to match up with? Because the existing turn tables couldn't handle the overall lengths and not every wye was built as big as a state.

                  Most railroads had water stops about every 25- 50 miles on average depending on how many hills they had to cross. If we as modelers were to take (and some have/do) into account switching and matching tenders from other steam engines, you'd have a little more fun with running your steam engines and the comments and conversations would be capital during running/operating sessions for sure.

                  My 2ยข worth. Thanks Karl, Louis, James for the compliments.

                  Thanx Thom...

                  Comment

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