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painting and weathering a skeleton log car.

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  • painting and weathering a skeleton log car.

    A few have asked how I did the rust on my Skeleton log car.

    I did a complete how to on Pauls (Shamus) site.

    Here is the last part of it.

    Well we made it this far, the rest is a breeze, not to mention a lot of fun.

    The first thing we need to do is remove the trucks and, using a small brush and some mineral spirits, wash the whole thing.

    Scrub it good, be sure to get into all the nooks-n-crannys.

    Next, I pin the trucks and the frame to a piece of foam.

    This way I can move it in any direction and not worry about

    dropping or losing anything.

    Now paint everything Flat Black. I use an air brush and either Pollyscale or Modelmaster paint for this.

    This is Modelmaster.

    I don't primer these. I have made others and really banged them around and have not lost any paint yet. If you want to prime them, be my guest!

    Now it's time to apply some weathering powder.

    I use the Bragdonet weather system FF-R12, Twelve color kit.

    These are powders not chalks.

    First I go over the entire car body top and bottom with the Dark Rust powder.

    Don't forget to do the trucks too!

    Here only the center frame is done to show the effect.

    Here's a pic of the trucks before and after the first powdering.

    No need for a fancy expensive brush. I use one from a pack I picked up at a local craft store, that have the cheesy clear colored handles. 3 bucks a pack. They are not bad at all.

    After you have powdered the whole thing, spray everything with a coat of Dull Cote.

    It will look like you lost all the color but if you look close you will see the dark dark rust.

    A note of caution now.

    When the Dull Cote dries, your powders will react differently. They will really grab,so, go light and slow.

    Go over the whole thing with the Medium Rust powder. When you apply the powder around the NBW, and the chain and log bunks, use a jabbing motion with the brush. Kind of like a birds head, when its pecking at the ground for seed. This will push the powder into the nooks.

    Here's a shot with the center done.

    Here are the trucks, the one on the right has the Dark rust and dull coat, the left is the same only it has the next coat of Medium Rust applied.

    Now, using the Light Rust, again with the pecking motion, stab the powder onto all of the NBW's and the track nail heads and the couplers.

    This will highlight the details, and make them look a tad rustier than the rest.

    If you want, after tapping, drag the brush down to make it look like water has pulled loose rust down under the bolts.

    Here you see one of the trucks with the Light Rust on the left side only. Light rust has also been dabbed onto the NBW's and nail heads here, and brushed onto the chain.

    I don't Dull Cote at the end because, as I have said, it really grabs the powders after the one coat. As you handle the car, some of the color will wear down a tiny bit, and, I think, it looks even better. If you like the stronger color, it is nothing to just tap a little more on later.

    Taaa Daaa! You're done! Woo Hoo!!! ;D

    Hope you liked my How to and try it if you never have before.

    I have a lot of fun building these little guys.

    I have some where I have made brake lines and other details and added them to the underside.

    You are only limited by your imagination and, if you collect enough reference pictures, you are not even limited by that!!!

    Cheers everyone!!!

  • #2
    Excellent notes, photography and technique.

    Thanks for the insight.




    • #3
      Excellent tutorial, Dave! :up: :up: Thanks for taking the time to post this!

      All of the very best modeling I have seen on this forum involved, at some point or other, Bragdon's powders. I keep saying I'm going to order them, and now I know I am. The rust on your trucks is far more realistic than what I get with chalk slurry.


      • #4
        Thank you Mike.


        Bragdon's powders. I keep saying I'm going to order them, and now I know I am.

        Mike, I promise it will be money well spent.

        I love them. ( They make me look better than I am!)[:-shades][:-shades][^][^]

        I know you will love em too!


        • #5
          Terrific, Mike. Thanks!



          • #6
            Dave, those are great looking cars, and both the modeling and the weathering stand nicely in the close-up photography test. Thanks for the tutorial, also.


            • #7
              Dave, Thanks for the great tutorial. Nice scratchbuild on the skeleton car.

              You have motivated me off my duff to order the weathering powders.




              • #8
                Dave, thanks for answering our pleas for a tutorial on your rusting techniques! I've used Bragdon's stuff for years, but not in the fashion you showed...time for me to experiment some!


                • #9
                  Nice article , Dave . You're right , it is a lot of fun as I found out using dry pigments and thinners to get weathered/rusted effects on my On30 loco . I'm using a similar technique on the Sierra West Boiler and Mill Engine .



                  • #10
                    Thanks everyone!

                    You are all so kind and generous with YOUR tips and could I refuse??

                    I am pleased you liked it.



                    • #11

                      Originally posted by HotShot

                      A few have asked how I did the rust on my Skeleton log car. I did a complete how to on Pauls (Shamus) site.

                      Where is the article on Paul's (Shamus) site?
                      Rod Hutchinson

                      Growing Old Disgracefully