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Layout Planning Questions (14 X 18 Layout)

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  • #16

    Modular RRing is the way I have to go. I know I have at least another move. With a modular/sectional layout it will make my move(s) easier (if that is possible).

    Have any of you seen the way some of the guys in Australia & England build theirs? They build box modules with lighting build in. I do not know the correct name for it. I have never seen this used in the States.

    Paul

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    • #17
      I use this lighting approach on my home layout. The Red Stag was the first time I saw it used, too. It eliminates a lot of headache with painting massive blue skies, building huge trees with full foliage and also makes the room look more like a museum with a huge model rairoad aquarium! On top of my lighted cover, I discovered a whole new space to build another layout, too. I tied the two levels together with a ten foot long logging incline. I added valanced lighting above the top level, too, attaching it directly to the ceiling. Logging on top level, log cars run down the incline to the log dump, logs get cut in the sawmill then head out as lumber all over the lower level layout to all the other industries. By double stacking the layout I was able to get twice as much layout into the humble area my wife alloted me for my use. Yes... she is in charge of everything she is aware of.

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      • #18
        Could you post some room pictures so we can see the way you've done this? I like the idea and have thought of doing just what you've described, but I like to get as many different ideas (and pictures) as I can and try to use the best (for me) all together.

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        • #19
          Now theres a cool idea On30. I would like to see some pictures as well.

          What kind of grade did you have to use to achieve the height?

          Just a side thought. Maybe a helix.

          JIM

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          • #20
            What would be a workable grade for a Helix? I will be running Moguls and Shays pulling no more than 10 cars.

            What would be a good shelf spacing. I want the bottom shelf to be 36" and the top shelf to be 30". I was thinking of maybe 18".

            JIM

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            • #21
              The logging incline is at a prototypical steep grade of nearly 66%. The locomotives on the layout never leave the level they are on, only the log cars get lowered down the incline to the dump, then are hauled back up empty by a Western Scale Models 2 drum hoist I am building. The hoist is being built to operate off a Hankscraft switch master turnout motor with a basic dcc decoder. The foundation is finished and the hoist is mounted in place. I am replacing the model's dummy electric motor with a stationary steam engine to backdate the hoist. I'm using an old Trains of Texas hydrocal casting of a horizontal boiler. I just bought a new digital camera to replace the one that died on me. I'll have photos ready shortly. I have a couple I took before the scenery was added and took some last night. It's fully scenicked now with all the ground cover and rock completed. Lots of trees and stumps still need to be added, though, so don't think it's anywhere near finished. I really didn't want to eat up a bunch of space with a helix. The only thing that needs to make it from the logging areas to the main layout is the wood. You could do the same thing with a flume or an ox powered log drag.

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              • #22
                Hello all

                I have a need to find out what turnout number I would use for a 36" radius. What I need is to come off of a 36" radius to a straight section. Do you think a #6 will do it? If one of you could point me to a site that has such information I would be most appreciative.

                I have decided that I can indeed use a 36" radius for my mainline. The dream of running a K-27 may be just around the bend for me. I will be ordering my Digitrax Super Chief next week and I plan to order a Broadway Limited C-16 at the same time. I hope you all are having as great a time as I am.


                JIM

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                • #23

                  On30,

                  I think your ideas are good. I think with On30 we need to use every bit of the space we are allotted.

                  Jim,

                  Glad to hear you are well on your way.

                  Paul

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                  • #24
                    Jim,

                    According to my John Armstrong track planning books the #6 goes with the 36" radius, the #5 goes with the 24" and the #4 goes with the 18" radius.

                    Hope that helps

                    Harold

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                    • #25
                      I'm also using a boxlike system for my lighting and backdrop. Just picked up the lumber for it yesterday. The bottom of the lighting valence will be exactly at standing eye level. I wanted to do it this way to avoid having to paint a lot of backdrop, and have plenty of light on the layout without lighting the floor too much. I'll post some pics when I get it built.
                      Cheers,

                      Steve

                      San Juan Lumber Company

                      Niagara Frontier Traction Company

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                      • #26
                        Thank you Harold. That is exactly what I needed to know. Sorry to ask so many questions that should be common knowledge but I have been away from model-railroading so long it has been a struggle to remember some of this. Thank you for being so kind.

                        Steve : I am still trying mainline routes and defining my tables. Trying different things out. After I finalize the track plan then I will work out the lighting. I have been thinking of using track lighting on a dimer. Then have florescent lighting for the house lights to be used when I work on the layout. Lighting for me is a very key player.

                        JIM

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                        • #27

                          I am interested in the box-like layout. I can see a lot of pros. The guys in Australia & England do it so well.

                          Keep us posted on your progress.

                          Harold,

                          Thanks for the info on the radius/turnouts.

                          Paul

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                          • #28
                            Jim,

                            If you are building your own turnouts, there are situations where a minumum radius turnout works well. A curve that has a tangent track coming off it can be replace with a curved turnout with the 36" radius. This works well and saves space.

                            Harold

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                            • #29
                              Thanks Harold. I will keep that in mind.


                              JIM

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