Moderator's Note: The following tutorial was posted by Ken Markenid="blue"> in The Craftsman's Corner forum (http://www.railroad-line.com/discuss...?TOPIC_ID=6057). The original thread is still open for comments and discussion.id="red">

Since I chose the Jordan 1928 Model A for this tutorial, Part 2 will focus on painting the body.

Usually, if possible, I will assemble the body

before I paint it, but since this kit has lots

of window’s which will need to be cut, fitted

and glued in place, I’ll paint it first to

eliminate the frustration of trying to fit

the glass on an assembled body. Also, if you

want to spray a coat of Dulcoat on the freshly

painted body, the windows won’t also get

sprayed which might turn them cloudy. (I prefer

clear, but slightly dirty windows)



Also, if you plan on keeping the finished

vehicle black, you can skip to part 3.

I’ll still brush on a coat of Steam Engine

Black when the body is complete for a dull

appearance, but with a little caution you can

apply this coat after the windows are in. You

can also weather the completed car with washes

and chalk if you prefer.


Let’s touch on paint before we get started.

There are tons of different brand paints

on the market for modeling. But they all fit

into two categories: solvent based or water

based. To make this simple, the choice is up to

you. I’ve used both and prefer the solvent

based right now, but I also like some of the

water based stuff. Use whatever you feel

comfortable with. (after reading the post by

Karl O. I’ll try the Ceramcoat again using his

tips because of the variety of colors available

and the price)



Should you prime first? My opinion is yes, especially if you are going to use

acrylic paint for the top coat. For primer, I suggest you use a spray enamel in

either gray or flat black. My preference is Krylon or Rust Oleum. Yours may vary.

Why enamel? Because it offers a superior bond to the plastic over acrylic primer.

(use gray for light colors – black or red oxide for dark colors)


Let’s begin.

Now, your parts should be dry enough from cleaning to apply the primer coat

and you have not touched them...right?

I always wear a pair of lightweight cotton

gloves before I handle the body parts

after cleaning. If you don’t have a pair you

can use a cotton cloth (lint free) or the

tweezers, but not your bare fingers. The oil

from your fingers and the prints you’ll leave

behind will influence the adhesion and the

finish of the primer coat. [!]

To make painting easier, I will first assemble the pieces that will make up the hood

and radiator. There should be 5 pieces. Assemble using the instructions with the kit.

I use Testors liquid for this and most all the rest of the kit. If you wish to paint the

grill “chrome”, do not attach at this point, just the hood and sides.



The next step is to attach the body parts to a suitable holder which you will use

throughout the painting process. I use leftover plastic rail material cut about 3 inches

long. File one end smooth, apply a small drop of Aleene’s Tacky glue and apply to the

backside of the part you wish to hold. If you

have some spare foam board, it will make an

ideal holder for the parts while being sprayed

with primer.





You can also use a plastic bottle cap and a blob of rubber cement or anything else

which will hold the part firm. (trust me, you don’t want to watch a freshly painted

part fall to the workbench) :erm: [:-censored]

When all parts are ready, apply a very light coat of primer to each. Don’t try to

cover in one coat or you will not be happy. This will take two to three very light

coats. One heavy coat will cover most molded in details. Let plenty of time pass between

coats, otherwise the first coat will not dry and you end up with a mess. When you are

pleased with the coverage, let dry for at least

24hrs, preferably longer.



The next step is to choose your body color and type of paint you wish to use.

Because this vehicle is so small, I use a brush for the final color. Those of you

with an airbrush might prefer to use that. Some might also choose to use a spray can.

Again, it’s your choice.

My preference right now is a red sable brush. They are available from many craft stores.

Don’t skimp on the brushes. If you want a smooth paint job, invest in some quality brushes

of different sizes and shapes. Because this kit has mostly flat areas, I’ll use either a 1/8”

or 1/4" wide flat brush.

If you are going to use paint in a jar, do not shake to mix. You will only create air bubbles

which will ruin the paint job. Instead, gently mix with a plastic swizzle stick until you

get a uniform color. I’ll then transfer enough paint to a container to cover the body. What I

use is a container from a potpourri candle

which are easy to clean when your finished

painting.



The paint should be about the consistency of

milk. Unfortunately, most of the Floquil /

Poly Scale colors are more on the thin side and

the Model Master is about perfect right out of

the bottle. If your paint needs thinning, you

can either use the blue window washer fluid or

distilled water for the acrylics. Mix right in

the container. It’s also a good idea to keep an

extra container of distilled water or thinner

just in case the brush starts to dry out.

When the paint is ready, I’ll dip the brush

almost halfway in. Never completely fill the

brush with paint or it will not flow evenly and

will eventually ruin the brush.

Start with the top of the vehicle and only

brush the paint on in one direction. Never back

and forth. Try to use one stroke to cover the

length of the piece being painted. Just like

the primer coat, do not brush the paint on too

thick. Two or three light coats are preferred.

As before, allow plenty of drying time between

coats or the next coat will “melt” the last

coat causing you to mutter nasty words because

of the bumps left behind.

One word of caution. Try not to get too much

paint on the glue lines of the parts being

painted. These will be apparent if you look at

the assembly instructions before painting. The

reason for this is you’ll have to clean these

area’s before assembly to let the glue get a

good grip. Never glue painted plastic surfaces

together. It will not hold securely.

When your satisfied with your work, let the

parts stand for a couple of days to dry. During

that time you can paint and detail the small

parts if you wish. Since they are small, primer

is usually not required. I do not paint the

fenders/chassis at this point because of the

number of parts which get glued to it. I’ll

save that for part three. If you would paint it

now, the adhesion of the parts would become an

issue.

I chose Model Master Bright Blue enamel with a black roof



If you want you can spray a coat of Dullcoat on after the paint is dry. I personally prefer to

skip this step in most instances because I like some shine in the paint, especially on the body.

If you have some scrap plastic laying around, I suggest you spray some up with primer and

practice laying the finish coats on. It will

make you more confident and comfortable in your

painting abilities.

Also, don't expect a flawless paint job unless

you really want to spend some time with these

kits. Most of the larger parts have flaws in

them from the molding process and they will

show in the paint. I just think they add

character, like small dents.

There, the hard part is done.........not!

Part 3 will cover final assembly and more painting.