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CUSTOM LOCOMOTIVES....

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  • CUSTOM LOCOMOTIVES....

    Here's a thread that may be of interest to a few of us. Just how does one go about owning a custom lokey? For me the McRRR SD-38 is the first attempt at something besides "out of the box". I want a faithful copy of a particular unit that isn't available in a RTR form. I want it to be my "showpiece" loco with every "goody" I can think of.I think I'm on the right track but I still have questions that some of you pros can answer. Mostly I guess in the area of "order of construction". If any work is farmed out how should one go about it? Should all the chassis work be first, including a Soundtraxx decoder with speaker mounted to shell? Then send it to the painter before detailing? (Or have painter detail it too?) Seems there should be a step 1,2,3 etc and I'm kinda jumping from "pillar to post". Maybe someone can explain how they went about building or having a "loco of their dreams" built. Any volunteers?

  • #2
    Bucks,

    I would ensure that the locomotive runs pristinely prior to any paint work. That would save damage to the paint. Most detail accessories should be applied prior to painting also. My sole exception here is the handrails. Those puppies go on after painting and decaling. I then touch them up with the paint used on the lokie and give it the final finish.

    One other thing, couplers should also be measured and applied prior to painting.

    Don

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    • #3
      Thanks amigo!

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      • #4
        Yer welcom Bucks. I cannot over emphasize the necessity for ensuring that your details and couplers will not interfere with the operation of your locomotive and that you run that hummer thoroughly through its paces prior to painting. I have managed to 'screw up' more than one exacting paint job 'cause I did not do this.

        Don

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        • #5
          Bucks:

          I agree with Don, get to the chassis first. Get it running like a top, then start the heavy cutting on the body. I don't start adding detail parts to the shell until after I've made all of the changes that are required, i.e. moving doors, replacing cab subbase, replacing nose, etc:. That way if something messes up you don't lose any detail parts.

          Dan Raitz

          Escondido, CA
          Dan



          Happiness begins with dessert.

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          • #6
            Thanks Dan! Right now I'm saving my frogskins to place that order with you at the store, then I'll get the chassis running. BTW will I need different driveshafts for the A-line motor in the RPP frame or will the SD-40 Athearn ones work?

            Edited by - bucks owin on 05/03/2002 13:26:28

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            • #7
              Hi Bucks,

              I always like something that won't appear on somebody else's layout, thats why most of my structure have been scratchbuilt. Also had an idea for this climax, got stuck into a drawing program, made some plans, and came up with this for a climax.Fits onto an MDC climax chassis.






              Edited by - Pault on 05/03/2002 14:26:26

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              • #8
                Cool! Nice work Paul!


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                • #9
                  Does any one know how to get a hold of 'Sanding Valve' or 'sd80mac'? They both do custom locomotives! And they have both done SD38 (-2)!!

                  Drew
                  Drew Toner



                  Chief / Sawyer

                  Ashcreek Lumber Co.

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                  • #10
                    quote:



                    Does any one know how to get a hold of 'Sanding Valve' or 'sd80mac'? They both do custom locomotives! And they have both done SD38 (-2)!!


                    Drew



                    id=quote>id=quote>
                    They both hang out on trainorders.com, but their email address don't show up!

                    Drew
                    Drew Toner



                    Chief / Sawyer

                    Ashcreek Lumber Co.

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