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  • Pine is an "allelopathic" plant, meaning that it produces biochemicals that can inhibit growth in other organisms. Since the algae in the photo is not present around the knots and nailholes, it is likely the result of pine tar(sap) concentrations. Even after kiln drying, pine can contain a lot of sap.

    A lot of folks use pine straw as a mulch and wonder why after a few years the mulched plants start to decline. It's for the same reason, the chemicals are found in all parts of the plant.

    Regards,

    Wallace

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    • But the anti-algae seems to also be associated with drainage or leaching from the nails, too.

      dave
      Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

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      • quote:


        Originally posted by Empire of the Air


        Pine is an "allelopathic" plant, meaning that it produces biochemicals that can inhibit growth in other organisms.


        Thanks Wallace!

        Something fascinating and new to bury in the brain.

        FWIW, I am just guessing that the siding is pine.

        Thayer

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        • quote:


          Originally posted by deemery


          But the anti-algae seems to also be associated with drainage or leaching from the nails, too.

          dave


          Dave,

          You are absolutely right. If galvanized nails were used, the zinc in the galvanizing compound could retard algae growth as well.

          Regards,

          Wallace

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          • Another great thread for me to save and devour at my leisure. While here, I did want to mention one thing about weathering, and this is just m opinion; although in real life, back in the 1930's or so where I try to keep my modeling to, most things were not weathered as much as we would like to think.

            That said, looking at an unweathered model doesn't look right. But what I learned over the years was to keep the weathering to a structure and what ever details you would add, to a similar tone. I have a set of pastels in the same tone range I keep in a plastic parts container, so when I weather my details, they all blend in well, like they all belong. I think (and maybe others may too), that is the key to successful weathering, at least for a structure. I generally use only about 3 or 4 different shades of the same earthy brown. There will be some small exceptions, but overall, it needs to blend in well with each other.
            Tony Burgess

            Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

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            • Good advice, Tony. A little goes a long way, both in quantity and—as you say—in the range of weathering colors used on a model. I like to see dioramas where a consistency in weathering ties everything together.

              Mike
              _________________________________________________

              I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now Bob Dylan

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