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  • smason2
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by JohnM


    Thanks for that Scott.

    Actually to start from the ground up, I have a 1 x 3 framework, 3/8 plywood, then the acoustic tile, then 1/8 foam (underlay from laminate flooring), then the track. From what you say though it seems like it's the stone. It was pretty quiet before I did that. But with other people using all kinds of different materials I thought I would have been safe with the stone. Ah well, we live and learn.


    Hi John,

    Actually, from the standpoint of appearance, you're better off using real stone ballast. The stuff from Woodland Scenics is crushed pecan and almond shells that have been painted. As soon as you wet the stuff it starts to float. I prefer Highball Products ballast as it is real limestone. Maybe a little noisier than the WS stuff but easier to work with.

    Scott

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  • JohnM
    replied
    Thanks for that Scott.

    Actually to start from the ground up, I have a 1 x 3 framework, 3/8 plywood, then the acoustic tile, then 1/8 foam (underlay from laminate flooring), then the track. From what you say though it seems like it's the stone. It was pretty quiet before I did that. But with other people using all kinds of different materials I thought I would have been safe with the stone. Ah well, we live and learn.

    Leave a comment:


  • smason2
    replied
    Hi John,

    The accoustic ceiling tile isn't a stable enough material to absorb the vibration of the metalic peices on top of it. The crushed rock just accentuates the noise.

    The best thing would be to re-lay your trackwork on foam, homasote or plywood with cosrk or homabed on top. That will cure the problem.

    Scott

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnM
    replied
    Hi Guys,

    A newbie here. I had a model railway as a kid (or more to the point my Dad had a railway when I was a kid) and am having a problem with ballast. Being severely limited to space I've started with a marshalling yard 2' x 8'. The track is laid on acoustic ceiling tile to reduce noise and have ballasted about 18" on three parallel lines. As material I used my driveway crushed stone sifted and run through with a magnet. As a bonding agent I used watered down white glue with a drop of dish soap. Application is with a small dropper bottle. Once dried the line is really loud, louder than if it was just laid on the floor. Any ideas anyone?

    Leave a comment:


  • UKGuy
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by Cigarguy


    Bobby,

    I've never heard of anyone using the ground walnuts. Can you post a photo of it?


    Woodland Scenics Ballast is actually coloured ground walnut shells.

    Regards,

    Karl

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  • UKGuy
    replied
    Here is a little tip that has been working for me very well and may be worth a try for you.

    Ballasting, everyones favourite task, I came up with this method last week.

    My new weapons of choice an electric razor and the stiff brush it came with for cleaning.




    Spread the ballast as usual down the middle of the rails, (its best to use too little until you are able to guage how much is required). Level it off with a finger, two or three swipes with the razor cleaning brush should clear 95% of ballast from the ties..... now the fun part.




    Hold the razor on edge, turn it on and place it on one of the rails.... its a beautiful sight to see that ballast "dancing" off the ties and leveling off perfectly (yes I know proto ballast isnt always perfect). With a little practice you will find how to apply pressure in different directions making the ballast go where you want it, push it away from the vibrating rail, pull it towards you, shift it sideways......

    Hope this helps someone, quick and easy, I did 6' of track in around 20mins.

    Have fun & be safe

    Karl.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike_Hamer
    replied
    I recall when I laid the ballast on my layout poured the ballast from the bag into an old film canister. This opening to the canister fit perfectly between the HO scale rails and made for a quick and tidy approach. A spoon was used for the areas outside the rails.

    The B&M had a lighter coloured ballast, which I though would be difficult to locate, but Woodland Scenics had a light tan/grey selection which fit the bill nicely.

    Leave a comment:


  • BobbyDing
    replied
    OK I'll give it a shot. I've supplied a penny and some Atlas track so you can judge the size. In the center is the original walnut bedding before dying. Going clockwise from right. Dark Brown, Cocoa Brown, Wine Red, Orange and finally, Black to the left side. The dark brown is about the same color as the plastic ties. These are the straight colors. I'm sure with some mixing, more are possible. Each was in the dye (RIT clothing dye) for about 10 hours, though it didn't need that much time to stain them. I suppose you could adjust the intensity by varying the time.

    Bobby

    Download Attachment: Ballast.JPG
    41.21 KB

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  • lac13705
    replied
    Tim,

    I think you may be referring to an ear syringe. Drug stores such as Rite Aid carry these - go to http://www.drugstore.com/products/pr...UY-PLST-0-SRCH for a look.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cigarguy
    replied
    Bobby,

    I've never heard of anyone using the ground walnuts. Can you post a photo of it?

    Leave a comment:


  • BobbyDing
    replied
    Hey folks,

    I've been looking around at ballast for my new layout and came across something I'd thought I would share. Maybe this has been mentioned before. Forgive me if it has. My layout is O scale, but I would think this can be used to a degree in the smaller scales.

    I wanted a brownish tone for my ballast. I looked at the offerings out there and found several. But my budget would not allow for most. In my wanderings I came across "Ground English Walnuts" at a local pet store (used for lizard bedding). It was $8 for a large bag, so I bought some. It is, of course, a light walnut color (tan), but I found that it takes clothing dyes very nicely. I've been able to color it many different shades of brown, black, red and orange. It's lighter than fish tank gravel. I tried bleaching it to see if I could lighten it, but that failed. So it's only usable for earth tones.

    Has anybody else experimented with this?

    Bobby

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim_Kerkhoff
    replied
    Mike,

    Yes hose rubber ball things. They are about 2" in diameter. The nice thing is that it is flat on top, so you can turn it over and it sits without falling over..

    Oh somthing else that is nice about them is that you can use them to blow the ballast off the top of the ties. You don't get dizzy that way.

    I am not sure what they cost, but if your children have grandchildren, go steal theirs....well borrow it. They shouldnt use those things on your grandchildren anyways.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cigarguy
    replied
    Just to clarify... I use what I call an eyedropper, but it really is a "medicine dropper." It hold more than an eyedropper, yet has the smaller orifice for tight spots. I use the glue bottle in open areas like for scenery and what not.

    Tim - are you talking about those rubber ball thingies???? (probably not the correct name...)

    Leave a comment:


  • Tabooma_County_Rwy
    replied
    And here's my nickel's worth...I use old saline solution bottles for dispensing a fine stream of alcohol, and another one for the glue/alcohol mixture. Very small orfice which gives pretty good control, yet the containers are big (8 oz), which means I don't have to keep refilling (like filling an eyedropper). Just an idea....

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim_Kerkhoff
    replied
    Here is my nickels worth....I use that awful thing they clean a baby's nose out with. [:-scared]I have got two of them now, as I take them from the kids when they get older. Gosh those things are gross.

    They make great glue applicators though, hold a lot and good control.


    AH choo.....makes my nose itch thinking about it.

    Leave a comment:

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