Found an old scan from my previous (better) scanner of the actual bridge at the actual location...



Andre

Aw, just messin' with you guys.

I actually thought about doing the angled trusses at first, but took the lazy way out and just made verticals. It is a much better looking facsimile with the angled truss rods.

V scale is quite different from tactile modeling in that you don't have unlimited ability to add detail until you're either pleased with the result or tied of adding detail. In V scale, there is the very important aspect of "resource conservation". That is, the more detailed (i.e. the more polygons in the model's mesh) and the larger the resolution of the textures used for "painting", the more computing resource consumed to render the model within simulator/graphic software. Too many polys, lots of large textures, too many models in the scene, etc, all add to "resource consumption", and the "FPS" ("Frames Per Second") of rendering speed suffers/etc. It's not like model railroading at all. Very different set of challenges/skill sets/etc. SO, I typically use a "minimalist" approach to my V scale modeling and V scale worlds so that I have resource room so I can add lots of rolling stock and AI trains within the sim for a good operational experience.

V scale is quite different from tactile modeling in many ways... but I enjoy it as an adjunct to my train interests. Works wonderfully as an additional outlet for TOC19 interest!

Andre

What Mike said, both points!

dave

It's not so much that we are right. We're just pointing out things that you'd have eventually seen.
It looks really good.

Mike

Try Hunterline Bridge Kits at

https://hunterline.com

Uncle! Uncle! Y'all win!



I went in and added the cross braces, retaining the verticals at first. Didn't look right. Looked too "busy"... so I poop-canned the verticals.

Much mo' bettuh without my cheater vertical rods...




I hate it when you guys are right.

[:-spin]

erdnA

Andre, the "problem" with your truss is that it's missing the cross members. Adding the rods running in the reverse direction shouldn't be that difficult.

dave

This design depends much more on iron rods and less on wood than a Howe truss, lending it that spindly look you like.

Mike

Mike:

Sure looks like it!

I simplified where I could, but that's the general look I was after!

Andre

Andre,

It looks like the bridge in your photos above is of this type:

Hi Bob!

Nah... it's "good 'enuf" for what I'll be doing with it.



Andre

Looking good so far, you might want to take another look at the support rods in the first two pictures. In those pictures there is also a Horizonal running metal bar running the length of the bridge.

Bob

Well, I think I've got something I can be fine with...



The bridge configuration is based on the above photos I shared of the bridge over the Meramec River near Jerome, MO.

As good fortune would have it, the only (poor) pic I have of the White River bridge near St. Paul (where this bridge is to be placed) shows only the west corner of it... but it's the same type bridge as was used over the Meramec! Such serendipity doesn't happen very often!

OH... and the wood piers are based on the same as seen in the White River bridge pic I mention. SO... this project ended up being a close facsimile of the real deal!

(Hm. Looks like I forgot to turn on shadows. [!] )

All fer now!

Wow, Bill... that's an impressive model, if not yours, whomever!

Thanks for the pics!

I'm aiming for the above spindly bridge photo I posted that was over the Meramec River at Jerome, MO. We'll see if I hit the mark or not!

Andre

Andre, these photos are of a Howe truss covered bridge - and model - in E. Shoreham, Vermont that was built in the 1890s. If you ignore the sheathing, the framing should be the same as the bridge you are modeling.

This is interior of the prototype, photo date unknown.




This is the frame for one side of the model (The Laser Arts kit from which this model was modified has some framing errors, but the overal appearance may work ok for what you want).



the 8 numbered notches along the top are for the roof rafters)

This is the assembled frame