Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

PRR 'FM' 40 foot flat in HO

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • CNE1899
    replied
    James,

    You can't be stopped! I don't know how you pull this stuff off with your loins all girded up, but you do.

    Nice details!

    Scott

    Leave a comment:


  • George_D
    replied
    I agree with Pete. It is an impressive build.

    George

    Leave a comment:


  • Orionvp17
    replied
    Looking good from here, James! This is an impressive build!

    Bravo!

    Pete

    in Michigan

    Leave a comment:


  • jbvb
    replied
    Thanks, Chuck and Pete. I 'girded up my loins' and made the last brass part yesterday. This is the stirrup that supports the bottom of the brake staff, with some chain I snitched from a Tichy pillar crane kit. The copper wire came from a lamp cord:



    Today I 'girded up my eyes' and installed it. Here a loop of copper wire is around the bottom of the brake staff:



    And here the epoxy that will hold the stirrup to the frame and floor is curing, with a little dab to retain the brake staff.



    I'll paint it and touch up the frame next. Then I'll somehow clean the frame without getting the wood deck wet. Then decals and weathering.

    Leave a comment:


  • Orionvp17
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by wvrr


    Looking good, James!

    Chuck


    What Chuck said!!

    Pete

    in Michigan

    Leave a comment:


  • wvrr
    replied
    Looking good, James!

    Chuck

    Leave a comment:


  • jbvb
    replied
    Thanks, Karl.

    I stained the HO scale 3x6 basswood deck with Minwax Dark Walnut on Friday and let the wood sit on a window sill till it felt dry. Today I spent a little while thinking about how to assemble the deck. I played with transfer tape, thinking about putting it on the underside of the wood. I decided the exposed stickum would accumulate dust.

    Next I tried thinning Walthers Goo with MEK. I squeezed a blob of Goo into a metal palette dish and tried mixing MEK in. Mixed results; MEK is way too volatile for a stable mix, the texture was changing every couple of minutes. And even with the window open, the fumes were noticeable. Seems some are dipping a brush in Goo, then in MEK. I was dipping a wire in the Goo/MEK mix and painting the tops of the stringers.

    At any rate, I like how it turned out - few threads and no blobs or threads visible from below:





    The Goo bond has stood up to some handling, including drilling the brake staff hole.

    My next puzzle is forming and mounting the stirrup that supports the bottom of the brake staff. The outer leg can easily go on a stringer, but the inner can't just go on the coupler box. I hope I can install it without removing truck and coupler.

    And the stirrup will need chain, and paint, and I must mount a retainer valve before I start decaling.

    Leave a comment:


  • k9wrangler
    replied
    Excellent and intriguing project.

    Leave a comment:


  • jbvb
    replied
    Thanks, Jim, Glen, George. After spending a while researching the next car to build, I cut the deck. Tomorrow I'll stain it and let it dry in the sun before attempting to assemble and attach it.


    Leave a comment:


  • George_D
    replied
    Nice looking flatcar, James. Interesting discussion on soldering.

    George

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen_Haasdyk
    replied
    I love what you've done with this scratchbuild. Anyone who says that flatcars aren't complex should see this thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • BurleyJim
    replied
    James,

    Nice job on the flatcar. The 'complexity' will certainly keep your eval in the high end. :up:

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • jbvb
    replied
    Thanks, Pete and Mike. Yes, I have a scheme to make the deck, the brake staff/wheel are blackened and awaiting the deck, and decals I think will work are at hand.

    This evening I've been planning my next couple of scratchbuilds while listening to the NMRAx. Kevin Marks has just finished talking about soldering. If you were watching him, you may have noticed we differ on several points:

    1. He uses NoKorode flux. I haven't used that for models or track work since I discovered Tix flux 25 years ago. I find the grease base very tricky to clean up. I haven't been bothered by Tix going where I don't want it; you can always use a smaller brush than the one that comes with the bottle. And there is Tix 'Anti Flux", which keeps solder from wetting surfaces. I first used it a bit on this job, but I can't say I'm expert yet.

    2. He doesn't like sweating parts together. I couldn't have done this without sweating - only the flange/sill joints were heated and touched with wire solder. The coated parts don't fit perfectly until I apply pressure to the joint as I heat with the tweezers. When 360F is reached, it all liquefies and the parts go to their final positions.

    He doesn't mention solder type, but I'm using 63/37 Tin/Lead, which is 'eutectic': melts all at once at 360F/183C. I had a .032 diameter rosin core Radio Shack roll upstairs, so that's all I used. Downstairs I have a finer Kester dispenser, because that was where I built most of my signals. Yes, you mustn't put your fingers in your mouth while working with it. I find 50:50 inferior, and wouldn't even use it on full size air brake piping. And I was once sold a coil of 'lead free' that I only use for filling in switch frogs. I think lead-free plumbing solders have improved in 25 years, but I haven't experimented.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael_Hohn
    replied
    It looks so real. You’re doing a great job modeling this car.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Orionvp17
    replied
    James,

    This is an elegant work, but if I may be bold here, I'd like to suggest that your schedule include decking, markings and perhaps installing the brake wheel before you go for the evaluation.... It's a concept....

    Pete

    in Michigan

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X