Robert,
Thanks!
Ray,
That's funny! I think that is a cool idea. T scale is even smaller 1:450!
Scott
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The dime really helps get a sense of how tiny it is! It's almost small enough to represent a garden railroad on a G scale layout!
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great work Scott. Really nice brass work.
I don't think it's something I would attempt in any scale.
:up:
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Bruce,
You made me chuckle! Thanks.
Ends are in. Next time I'll take an end shot.
I turned the tank seams on the drill press. I used an X-acto razor saw
set on it's side on the drill plate.
Scott
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Great Scott! Scott. Excellent work on this one. I can't see, are the tank ends in yet? The second one might be a little tricky if that filler pipe is sealed. Did you 'turn' those tank bands on a lathe or drill? they look too precise for a 'drill job'. My earlier post apparently is floating in a bit bucket someplace.
Keep up the fine work.
Jim
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James,quote:
Originally posted by jbvb
The tank did clean up nicely, and the frame looks good too. Do your crossbeams include the truck bolsters? There was a period of uncertainty when I was building my flat car's bolsters, but I was cautious and the amount I was off was fixable with washers rather than filing.
The MTL trucks I'll be using come with a plastic
shoulder screw. So am going to make a bolster with a threaded hole. The thread size is 0-90.
George and Bill,
Thanks for the comments and following.
Scott
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The tank did clean up nicely, and the frame looks good too. Do your crossbeams include the truck bolsters? There was a period of uncertainty when I was building my flat car's bolsters, but I was cautious and the amount I was off was fixable with washers rather than filing.
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Scott,
Your tank car is looking really good. I also like all the soldering tips. What sort of equipment are you using?
Mike
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I finished the open areas in the frame, and cleaned it up. I then cut strips to represent the different cross beams, 5x5, 5x7, 5x10. I started with the biggest beam which supports the queen posts. Because of scale, I made the posts and beam one piece.
After I solder the beams on, I'll attach the truss rods.
Scott
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Snuck in some work on the tank car.
I stuck the brass frame piece with double sided tape to a block of wood, so I can drill and cut slots to create the frame.
I ended up screwing the brass down because it got hot while cutting it and the tape melted.
I used a thin cut wheel on the Dremel.
Next will be drilling some more holes and filing out the open areas.
I will be printing the wood deck on paper that is the correct thickness in scale.
I used some wood images and Photoshoped them to create the deck. I layered that over line work I created in Illustrator using
a tank car drawing from White's car book.
Scott
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Another point - cleaning up a grease-based flux like 'NoKorode' is best done with soap and hot water. The soap is just basic enough to neutralize any acid that doesn't get washed away. Tix flux is also acid (zinc chloride solution) but it's easier to wash away residue.
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