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lesson learned:__narrow gauge FastTracks turnout

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  • #1

    lesson learned:__narrow gauge FastTracks turnout

    I'm doing HOn30 with Code 70 rail. On the FastTracks #4, the distance from the frogs to the points is small, and it's tough to bend the Code 70 point rails with a switch machine. After consultation with Guru Tim Warris, he recommended cutting a gap close to the frog, but after the tie where the rail is soldered, then adding a rail joiner cut in half to connect the gap, providing a hinge.



    Then solder a thin wire across the gap on the outside of the rail, or better yet across the rail joiner on the underside of the rail. (I popped off the wood tie, soldered the wire, then trimmed the tie underneath the rail to get it to fit.)



    This is MUCH easier to do if you do it after the turnout is built, but before you glue the wood ties in place.

    dave
    Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Next time maybe try cutting the web of the rail on both sides. That should make it bend easier without encouraging dead rails.

    Bob
    It's only make-believe

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    • #3
      Bob, do you mean the base? The web is the relatively thin vertical part between the base, which sits on the tie, and the head. Anyway, concentrating the bend in one place is likely to produce metal fatigue cracks there sooner or later. I show the 'heel thrown point' scheme I use on page 9 of the Subroadbed, Roadbed and Track thread: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...78&whichpage=9
      James

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      • #4
        It would be difficult to shape the rail after the turnout is assembled ... :-( Adding the hinges is doable, although finicky. I did 2 last night, I'll do the 3rd tonight. I didn't want to rush and get over-frustrated :-)

        dave
        Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

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        • #5
          Dave, looking at your picture it looks like your jig is a little different than my #4 standard gauge one. Mine has a slight bend in the diverting outside rail right at the point where the end of the point lays against it. It matches the angle of the other side point. Interesting!

          I’ll see if I have a pic of mine to post.
          Phil Z

          POR (press on regardless)

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          • #6
            here is the best picture I have without taking another one.



            If you need a better one it will have to wait until I get back home from work tonight.
            Phil Z

            POR (press on regardless)

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            • #7
              Sigh... Turns out all of my turnouts are out of gauge. They're too tight



              I mentioned this to Tim Warris, suggesting he double-check the FastTracks jig. It's probably my bad assembly, but I'm a little suspicious that the problem is in the same place on all 3 turnouts I built.

              dave
              Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

              Comment

              • #8
                quote:

                Originally posted by deemery

                Sigh... Turns out all of my turnouts are out of gauge. They're too tight

                [img]data/deemery/2020314124235_89391690_562922521239321_34026807836 24732672_n.jpg/img]

                I mentioned this to Tim Warris, suggesting he double-check the FastTracks jig. It's probably my bad assembly, but I'm a little suspicious that the problem is in the same place on all 3 turnouts I built.

                dave

                Dave,

                Is the out of gauge problem that they are to narrow in the points area? (The picture didn't come out in your post) I've had the same issue with my turnouts, I almost always have to notch the stock rails a little more after I've notched them with the StockAid.
                There's a prototype for everything.

                If you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable.

                DCC is not plug and play.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Where's the pinch? I could take a look sometime next week - usually it's simple to unsolder the offending rail and shift it a bit, or file the inside of the head.
                  James

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                  • #10
                    Dave,

                    OK, I can see the picture now (ahh I donno). That sure seems to be an issue with the jig, it's not like you can move the closure rail closer to the stock rail when it's in the jig and once they are soldered to the ties the rails shouldn't move when taken out of the jig.

                    Scott
                    There's a prototype for everything.

                    If you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable.

                    DCC is not plug and play.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Jeez Dave, you are a glutton for punishment! Code 70 for an HOn30 #4? Ouch!

                      One thing you could try as well, would be to solder hinge plates to the points at the throwbar. Then pin the points to the throwbar itself, which will make throwing the turnout easier as you are not fighting the solder joints at the throwbar/point location.

                      I've done this with every HOn2 and HOn30 turnout I've built and they throw a lot easier than with a rigid point/throwbar connection.

                      It's easier than creating hinged point/closure rails and a lot more reliable (electrically).

                      JeffB

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                      • #12
                        Here's the latest idea, replace the ugly ties in a Peco HOn30 turnout. I tried this on an old Atlas N scale turnout first. (Peco on top).



                        This is as much about my soldering skills as it is about the mechanics of the turnout...

                        Note the Atlas turnout has a plastic frog and guard rails, I'll try cutting away the plastic ties and gluing wood tie pieces. I think that'll look OK. On the Peco turnout, I'll replace the guard rails with metal ones (as per the FastTracks jig.)

                        Part of the problem is that the ME HOn30 track I'm using has longer ties than FastTracks uses for HOn30, they're actually HOn3 length. I've ordered some HOn3 PC ties from FastTracks which should be the correct size. I'll probably do an assembly jig for the soldering, I have 3 LH to do (plus 1 RH).

                        dave
                        Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

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