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In-ko-pah RR: New project

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  • #31
    Wonderful detail work with the building and the weathering! It's a pleasure to watch you create your projects!
    Dave

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    • #32
      Beautiful!!

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      • #33
        Ray,

        Catching up again, beautiful work :up:

        Rich

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        • #34
          looks great Ray!

          Philip
          Philip

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          • #35
            Here's another update...

            Prior to painting the exterior, I sprayed the interior with white primer. Then I painted the floor and installed the wainscot. The wainscot was made from .020" thick, V-groove styrene siding, trimmed with .080" half-round rod and a couple different sizes of styrene strips:




            The removable rear wall was detailed to match. I extended the paint beyond the ends of the wainscot on this wall, to hide any small gaps that might occur when the wall is in place. The exterior of this wall was painted with straight, brown house paint:






            Next I went to work on glazing the windows. Here are the tools I used, and the pieces that were cut to fit the upstairs windows:






            I used a toothpick to smear clear silicone caulk on the back of the window frames, then pressed the glass in place:




            On these loose window frames there is usually minimal clean up required. Excess silicone is trimmed off with a hobby knife, and if necessary, scraped off using the blade of a very small screwdriver:




            Installing the glass in the storefront is much trickier. I had to reach in from the rear of the building to apply the silicone and press the glass into place. As a result there was a lot of smudges and excess silicone on the glass. But eventually I got most of it cleaned off:






            The next job was to make and install the corrugated metal roofing. The corrugated metal was made from .001" brass shim stock. I used Dynaflex 230 paintable sealant to glue the metal to the roof:










            When this had fully set, I masked off the entire building, leaving only the two roof sections exposed. First I sprayed on a coat of self-etching metal primer, followed by a coat of Rustoleum's "Cold Galvanizing Compound". This paint contains real zinc and gives an authentic galvanized appearance to the metal:




            Still to come: Signage, installing the upstairs window and side door, interior details, and lighting.

            .

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            • #36
              Nice work, Ray.

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              • #37
                Nice update! Busy!

                Philip
                Philip

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                • #38
                  Ray, it's all coming together quite nicely.

                  Greg Shinnie

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                  • #39
                    Signs, signs, everywhere a sign...

                    The original structure had a small upright sign mounted on the roof of the overhang, and nothing on the false front. This time I opted to paint the name of the bakery on the false front, in large, vintage style lettering. I printed the sign onto a sheet of inkjet-printable, self-adhesive vinyl. Then I cut out the letters to make a stencil, and mounted it on the building:




                    At first I applied the paint with a stencil brush, which gave it a stippled appearance. I could have stopped there if I wanted it worn and faint, but I decided it shouldn't be quite so old. So I added a little more paint using an old artist's brush.

                    When I removed the stencil I found that the paint had bled under it in many places. This was not unexpected, considering the rough surface:




                    I touched up the edges of the letters by hand, using a fine tip artist's brush. Then I lightly dry-brushed some gray-brown paint over the letters to make them look a bit more worn. Here's the finished sign:




                    There are several more signs on the building. These are much smaller -- too small to be painted on, at least with my limited skills. So I printed them onto wet-transfer decal paper. I wet the area with a setting solution called "MicroSol". The decals were dipped in water, then transferred to the structure. When the decal was properly positioned, I drenched it with MicroSol and left it to dry:



                    I had used decals on the old building too, but noticed that the weather wore off the lettering despite being sprayed with Krylon clear coat. So on this structure, after the decals were dry I brushed on some clear gesso to provide an extra layer of protection. Next I lightly applied some paint to give the lettering a weathered appearance:




                    The signs on the V-groove siding were given the same treatment, with the additional step of gently pressing the decal into the grooves with the blade of a small screwdriver. Weathering was achieving primarily by using the dry-brush technique:








                    The signs were finished off with a generous coating of Krylon UV-resistant matte clear. I had to mask off the windows and the corrugated metal before spraying the Krylon. Normally I would have added the signs before painting the roof or putting in the glass, but I couldn't find my stock of decal material and had to order more. The place I get it from was going through a move, so my order was delayed.




                    Next: Installing the second story windows, putting the posts under the overhang, detailing the interior, etc.

                    .

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                    • #40
                      Looking very good, Ray. Signs make the building believable and you have done a wonderful job.

                      Bob
                      http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102

                      http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51837

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                      • #41
                        Getting down to the wire now...

                        Next step was installing the side door and the upstairs windows:






                        The second story would not have a detailed interior, just some lights. So I needed curtains for the windows. I started by building a simple frame out of styrene strips:




                        Then I glued layers of lace trim to the back of the frame, and then glued the frame into the building:








                        I did the same for the single window on the side:




                        Next I installed the two posts which support the overhang at the front of the building. I drilled holes into both ends of the posts. On the top of each post I glued a short piece of 1/16" brass rod, with only 1/8" protruding. This end was glued into the building first. Then I glued the bottom end, and inserted a rod up through a hole in the wooden sidewalk. This rod was then cut flush with the styrene:




                        Now for the lighting... I started by drilling holes through the bottom of the structure, right behind the side door. Two 1/16" diameter brass rods were inserted into these holes. The lower ends were bent over and cut short, then I soldered electrical leads to the rods:




                        The LEDs I use are from this supplier:

                        https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/p...r-transformers

                        Each LED is pre-wired to a tiny circuit that regulates the voltage and polarity, making them very easy to use:




                        I inserted LEDs into the light fixtures through holes in the top of the removable ceiling. Most are held in place with tape. On the two "recessed" style fixtures, I used poster putty to hold the LEDs and seal the opening:




                        Then the ceiling was put into place and secured with tape. The copper alligator clips were connected to the upper ends of the brass rods:




                        The remaining LEDs were installed separately. Two were inserted into the opening above the sidewalk, in front of the store. These were secured with poster putty. Three more LEDs were mounted on the interior walls of the upper level, again using poster putty to hold them in place:




                        I made and installed the two signs that are mounted on the rear wall of the bakery:




                        Here's the back of the building with both of the removable walls secured in place with small, stainless steel screws:




                        The "swamp cooler" I built for the original building was still in pretty good shape, so I was able to reuse it. I had to clean it up, extend the two legs, and repaint the platform. Then it was sprayed with Krylon UV-resistant clear coat, and glued into place:








                        The bakery's interior details were also salvaged from the old structure, cleaned up, modified slightly, and installed in the new building. The two window displays and the glass cabinet are held in place with screws inserted through the floor:










                        At last the building is finished, and installed on the layout!
















                        The next building that needs repair is the stone drug store, to the right of the bakery. The plastic "glass" in the windows is almost completely fogged and yellow, and some of the styrene components need repainting. I don't know yet when I will get to that project.

                        .

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                        • #42
                          Ray, Another show stopper. Your bakery is as good as new. You are the master model maker.

                          :up: :up: :up:

                          Bob
                          http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102

                          http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51837

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Yum, Cora's all spruced up and back in business.

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                            • #44
                              Ray,

                              Love your work! Cora's Cakes fits right in to the scene!
                              Dave

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                              • #45
                                Thanks guys!

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