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Rebuilding an Atlantic NYC-and-HR rr Ajin brass loco

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  • Rebuilding an Atlantic NYC-and-HR rr Ajin brass loco

    Hi all,

    If you're interested here another brass build Pictorial.

    At first look it seems like half of this engine tender combo is done. Not... First the decaling is the wrong color and I notice why I'm getting a short from the engine.

    The pilot wheels are touching the front driver.

    Here is a closer look at what I mean.

    Next I also noticed the trailing truck wasn't flexing like it should.

  • #2
    Upon closer inspection I noticed the wheel wasn't moving (see how the axle is up and not down with the gravity).

    Turning my attention to the pilot steam chest mounting cross member (which broke loose).

    So after measuring exactly where the cross member should go properly (never ass/u/me just because it broke off it should be in the right place). Always double check measurements.

    Note: It helps to have a resistance solderer or a set of micro tourches when soldering a heavy gauge like a frame.


    • #3
      Another good note:

      When looking for shorts on a steam locomotive, the brake shoes are usually a good culprit except here these are plastic (which is perfect). No shorts here.


      • #4
        Your thoroughness is impressive. I'll watch and learn even though don't have any brass.


        • #5

          Shame on you for not having any shiny gold colored models.

          At-A-Boy tho for tuning in Sir! I'll do my best to keep all informed or entertained.

          Thanx Thom...


          • #6
            My first brass steam was an AHM (Gem reject) HO B&M R-1d 4-8-2 for Xmas about 1980, and I made it run, but I'm tuning in too...


            • #7
              What a beautiful little locomotive! I'd be tempted to either find a polished brass tender or spend a lot of time removing the paint.


              • #8
                Hi guys,

                Thanks for all who are playing & lurking. Ok so after I soldered the frame member solid again.

                I discovered the piston slide guides were binding up and not running smooth.

                So I polished all moving parts for burrs. Adjusted all moving parts for proper clearance.

                Some may ask why would you need to adust any part? Sometimes people who handle a brass engine, wrongfully grab by the driver side rods and that's where things can move. Just sayin'.

                Here is a 49 second demo test video for those keeping score.

                Right now I'm giving all parts a good chemical n water sonic cleaning and will further inspect for imperfections etc.

                If needed I'll give all or any parts a grit blast then chemical bath again.

                Thanx Thom...


                • #9
                  Hi brass lurkers,

                  Okay, so after giving the boiler a 20 minute bath the clear coat is starting to soften and peel off.

                  A total time of 1 hour in 15 minute sessions with light soft brushing of the bigger clear coat pieces leaves this array of brass colors.

                  While inspecting closer after sonic cleaning. I found two parts that had super glued parts (lower right).

                  I'll properly solder up and sonic clean the parts again and the painting process begins.

                  Thanx Thom...


                  • #10
                    Hi all,


                    Ok so at this point I've painted all major parts with two coats of a custom mixed of Scale Coat black paints.

                    After letting the paint cure for a week, I closely inspected for any imperfections or scratches and buffed out.

                    Next I'll start the subassemblies and detail paint, decal and clear coat. Thanx Thom...


                    • #11
                      That's a VERY smooth finish. Do you add gloss to your paint, or use a glossy paint to start with?

                      My Train Blog:


                      • #12

                        I always custom mix each model differently to get different finishes, sheens or colors.

                        On this model I used Scale Coat paints. I mixed by eye only S1, 1010, satin finish & SC thinner to a thin mix.

                        Mix well and let sit 1 minute and eye droppered from mixed portion into cup on airbrush.

                        sprayed two light coats, baked and inspected for any inperfections that need sanding etc.

                        Touch up sprayed what I needed and what you see is the bare paint before any clear coat for decals yet.

                        next I'll gloss coat the cab side and tender side only for decals.

                        Thanks for your inquiry. Hope this helps you. Thanx Thom...


                        • #13
                          Thom, sent you an email via the forum.


                          • #14

                            Hi, haven't received any e-mail yet. It must be on a delay or it didn't go thru? Thanx Thom...


                            • #15
                              Thom, Ok, I just tried sending you a private message instead of another email.