Bob, that worked well. What will be next - driverless cars?!

Bob:

I forgot that I had downloaded the Canvas Workplace. For the log tong project that I am working on now, my friend brought over a side drawing of this modern logloader and rather than scan the whole drawing and editing out the parts that I didn't want I instead taped the drawing to my light tracer which is a shallow box with a white plastic top and a light bulb inside and then just traced the part that I wanted and just did a direct scan and cut in the ScanNcut machine. The light tracer I have had for years and think that I paid around $40 for it at a local craft shop. I see that Dick Blick Art Supplies carries it too for around $45.

Tonight I tried cutting out a roof truss from a picture that I found online. It is no problem cutting out the outside of it but I found out that when it attempted to cut the inside truss parts it ended up tearing the inside of the project. I only did it using a piece of light cardboard from a TV dinner carton. Maybe it would work better if I tried it with styrene or 1/16" thick basswood. Attached is a file of the roof truss that I was trying to cut out. Maybe you might have better results.

The other day I made a trip to Office Depot to pick up some HP ink for my printer as was curious what thin chipboard was so I bought eleven 8 1/2" x 11" sheets for 9 cents a sheet. All it was is just a thin brown cardboard.They don't carry it packs in the store but do sell it by the sheet at their copy center. You just ask them for part #723164 and tell them how many sheets that you want. If you want white sheets you will have to go to Michaels or Joann's.


Jack M


Download Attachment: Truss.jpg
41.9 KB

Bob, I just saw this post now. Don't know how I missed it'. :erm: As you know I did receive them, and will be using them in my current build I'm working on. Thanks again Bob, for thinking of me'..id="blue">

Thanks Ted.

Jack, You have me stumped but I admit I am a newby on this machine and have not had much

time to read the manual. I did find out that you cannot use "direct cut" to do what you

want. That will only cut around the outside of a drawing. You can use "cut to data" and

that worked quite well for me but it made a file to cut ALL the lines.Therefor it cut all

the individual pieces to make up the truss. If you drew your truss with just black lines

without cutting through each piece and then scanned it to make a cut file, then I think

you could cut as many trusses as you need.

Bob

Bob and Jack -

I've been watching this progress with great interest. Based on how I would cut something like a truss out by hand, I would set it up to cut out the inside "holes" first, then cut the outside of the frame parts. That might need two different patterns, but I'm thinking that aproach would work.

I'm wondering if it would cut small slots into 20 thou styrene, so that you could use a small punch to deform the adjacent plastic sheet to make "real" punched louvers. That would be just what I was looking for in a model car.

Dave, It's really not that complicated. If you make your drawing like the upper

drawing, not the lower one with the sections lined off, all will be ok, you can simply

scan the drawing in and save the cut file. You can then use that file to cut out all the

trusses you want with all the interior open areas cut out.

Bob

Dave, I forgot your other question, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Send me a drawing and I'll give it a try.

Bob

Look here all you O Scalers. I found this doll house place that has a whole set of 1/48 scale

houses and detail stuff. That's O scale and it's new. Take a look.

Bob

https://www.miniatures.com/148-Scale...?media=WPC3840

Hi guys, I know I haven't posted in a while but I am still my wife's caregiver and I have

had my right eye surgery to remove cataracts (the left eye will be done next Monday). This

has left little time for model building. I did manage to play with my "Scan N Cut" for a

few odd time periods. I decided to see if I could make a passable model window. Keep in

mind that I am new at this machine and I know this project needs tweaking and modifications

to make it better, but it is a starting point. The material used was a card stock

about a half mm in thickness.

While I show making one window I arranged the drawing and it's duplicate side by side and cut parts for two windows at once.

Here's the drawing, drawn on paper in my computer and scanned into the machine.



Bob

Here are the parts for one window cut out by the machine. I think the bit of fuzziness

is because of the type card I used, some kinds cut smoother.



Here is one window assembled.



It looks worse in this large photo than in real life but I do have a lot to learn.


Bob

Looks good to me, Bob! Glad to see you at it again. Keep going!

Best wishes to you both....

Pete

in Michigan

Bob, it must be a picture window, because it looks picture perfect to me.

Nice to see you back here, posting again!

Greg Shinnie

Pete and Greg, thanks for the support from two old friends!!

I hope to get back to REAL model building soon.

Bob

Bob, Good to see you back at modeling. Do you have access to 'laser board' (I think it has various names, but it is a resin impregnated card stock, available in different thicknesses).

Dave (VectorCut) used it for this HO stencil and the cutouts are clean and crisp. Notice the horizontal connectors to keep the numbers together are very thin, and clean.

Bob,

Your windows are a lot better than I expected based on what I’ve seen similar cutters do in the past. In fact you really put your cutter through a difficult test.

Nice job.

Mike