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Tomar Adlake Markers

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  • Tomar Adlake Markers

    I recently purchased a bunch of Tomar Adlake Markers for cabooses. (I prefer cabeese, but...)

    Anyhow, I purchased the non-LED version. With DCC, do I need to add a resistor or do anything special so I don't blow the lights when I put the caboose on the tracks.

  • #2
    Tomar's site says they have 1.5 volt lamps, so yes, they'll blow the moment they're connected without a resistor. But Tomar doesn't specify the current they draw. Unless you find someone here or on the web who's published a resistor value, you'll need to figure it out with a battery and a multimeter that reads milliamps. Tomar also offers an LED kit to replace the bulbs, which includes dropping resistors.


    • #3
      Yes, the caboose will need a resistor to drop the voltage down to 1.5 V for each marker light. I used a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor with my Tomar Adlake marker lights for both lights when I started getting them. It kept the light dim enough to see. One resistor per light will give you a brighter light. I have however since gone to the LED kit to replace the bulb markers for longer life and no heat build-up, As James described above, which includes dropping resistors with the package.

      See thread here;

      Louis L&R Western Railroad
      Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast


      • #4
        I have installed the LED version before. Not thinking about DCC I purchased the non-LEDs in an effort to save a couple bucks and some wiring.

        Thanks for the input guys!


        • #5
          I've been performing the installation on several cabooses in the last few months. I'm slow, so the reality is that I've actually spent a small bit of time messing with installs. It's odd how some of the seemingly all metal trucks don't conduct electricity, forcing shoe installations.

          Anyhow, I'm wondering if a bridge rectifier would be appropriate for a DCC installation of non-LED bulbs?


          • #6
            I was busy harvesting and fixing things, so I missed this back in July: Since filament lamps don't care about polarity, normally you wouldn't need a bridge rectifier. You probably would for non-DCC constant lighting or some other functionality that requires solid state controls.


            • #7
              Thanks for the reply. I've put my cabeese off for a bit because I got frustrated with each install acting differently.... Part of it has to do with trying different products. Different trucks, LEDs, incandescent bulbs and pick-ups.


              • #8
                Has anyone installed them using a Blackstone Models lighting kit?? Already uses LEDs and it has power taps for accessories


                • #9
                  I haven't heard of it until now. I'm not sure about the size. It might be fine, but it's 80mm long, which converts to 3.14 inches. I'll have to try and see how it works out. Looks like it's worth trying.