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Lineside Signals for the B-and-M Eastern Route

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  • jbvb
    replied
    I'd noticed a minor problem a while back: One light on a 3-head home signal never showed Clear (green), only Caution and Stop. I sat down (under the layout) last night with the diagram to diagnose it. I'd used female spade terminals for connections to the Circuitron SD-3, rather than solder, so first step was pull the Y wire off. It stayed yellow, so the problem was in the SD-3. I had another on the layout whose signal hasn't been built, so I swapped them. Now both work. Maybe a bit of cut-off wire had fallen into it and moving it cleared it out, but a clear case of Problem Disappeared In Process of Diagnosis.

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  • jbvb
    replied
    At 8 PM Saturday Oct. 9 I'll be presenting my clinic about building this signal system at the Northeastern Region convention Mill City 21 in Westford, MA

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  • jbvb
    replied
    Thanks, Mark. Rix hasn't had the complete CTC Knob kit the last couple of times I looked, but I ordered plates and knobs. There seems to be a spring which retains the knobs on the rotary switch shafts, but I can probably improvise that from street sweeper bristles or strapping off bundles of ties. Now that I have functioning spring switches, I will use them to set direction (East - Auto - West) on my two single track segments.

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  • MarkF
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by jbvb


    Can anyone enlighten me about Rix 'CTC Knob Kit'?

    1. Must the rotary switch I supply have a flat on the shaft?

    2. Are the plates supplied painted, or just as molded? If unpainted, are there decals or the like?

    I am thinking about adding 'direction' controls for my two pieces of CTC single track.


    James, I know this was an old post as I've been away for a while, so perhaps you already got the answer you were looking for, but I just began working on my CTC machine and am using the RIX levers and plates.

    The hardware included is all molded in light gray plastic. For the plates, they suggest painting gloss black, then lightly sanding to expose the raised lettering.

    And they do supply decals so you can number the lever plates.

    As for the knobs, I used Krylon Chrome paint and the end result looks great! Everyone thinks they are the real metal levers, not plastic.

    I hope this answers your questions.

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  • Orionvp17
    replied
    Thanks, James!

    Pete

    in Michigan

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  • Michael_Hohn
    replied
    Thank you.

    I can’t remember seeing an overall plan of your layout before; perhaps I wasn’t paying attention.

    Mike

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  • jbvb
    replied
    In October 2019 I prepared a Lineside Signals clinic slide-show for an NMRA Seacoast Division event. I was reviewing it and realized an illustration I'd made was worth posting here.



    This shows my layout's signaled main-line blocks.

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  • jbvb
    replied
    Can anyone enlighten me about Rix 'CTC Knob Kit'?

    1. Must the rotary switch I supply have a flat on the shaft?

    2. Are the plates supplied painted, or just as molded? If unpainted, are there decals or the like?

    I am thinking about adding 'direction' controls for my two pieces of CTC single track.

    Leave a comment:


  • jbvb
    replied
    I've just learned that Free State Systems, who made the nice etched signal ladders and platforms shown earlier in this thread, is no longer in business. No inventory remains.

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  • jbvb
    replied
    Thanks, Frank. If your modeling focus isn't on lines with interlockings or block signals, this isn't very important. But if you have questions I'm happy to discuss. Or if you're driving between Massachusetts and Maine with slack in your schedule, see if I'm going to be home.

    I just got reminded I needed closure on getting a good 'yellow' out of a stock Paisley 556 signal driver card: LEDs I bought in 2017 from led-switch.com labeled '3mm Red/Green Diffused 2-lead' give a nice 'yellow'. But I can't make any promises about led-switch's parts sources now vs. then. Please test (or at least query led-switch.com) before buying in quantity.

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  • Frank_Palmer
    replied
    Nice work James. Even if I have no clue what you're doing.

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  • jbvb
    replied
    A few updates on my signals: Once in a while something on a contact gives an incorrect indication. All cases to date have been fixed by throwing the guilty turnout a few times.

    I am testing a prototype Spring Switch Controller from Azatrax:



    This is the 'three wire' version, for use with Kemtron etc. twin coil solenoid machines. I added the outboard relays so the machine could be driven by my capacitor discharge supply. It has a rectifier but its built-in relays buzz a bit on AC. It's not on Azatrax's site today, but I understand it and the '2-wire' (Tortoise etc.) version should be available soon.

    Like many other Azatrax products, it uses I/R LED and detector pairs to detect trains. I used the 'reflective sensing' mode, which was a little tricky where I had little room. It works well, but detection & throw take a moment: 2" from the 'branch' sensor to the rail gaps is OK up to maybe 40 scale MPH. I don't mind because the prototype limits speed to 25 MPH or less when pushing switchpoints over.

    I had to update the Newburyport diagram to reflect this and the use of Rob Paisley's LED drivers instead of SD-3s:



    I fixed several errors/omissions in labels too.

    I still haven't addressed the two 'bracket arm' mast signals for West Lynn, but I've found what I hope will be a better solution for removable signal connectors. More on that when it gets to the head of the queue.

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  • jbvb
    replied
    Sometimes "act now" is the right path; I should have bought the Model Shipways etched brass numbers (page 5) for automatic signals back in 2016. Now it appears Model Shipways has been swallowed up by another firm and the 2mm and 2.75mm letter/number sets aren't to be found on the website.

    I can get 1/8" from miniatures.com (oversize, but maybe more legible) and 2mm from secretweaponminiatures.com. Anyone have other suggestions? Europe/UK included, as I have overseas family who would probably help.

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  • BurleyJim
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by jbvb


    Thanks, ed and Jim. Jim, I'm not sure what you mean - Bexley Depot and Engine House are separated by Bexley Tunnel, which has been in operation 10+ years. I got all of Bexley's interlockings into service last winter; the missing bracket arm signals are in West Lynn.


    I was looking at that 'grayed out' section on the layout drawing, and didn't remember the tunnel.

    Jim

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  • jbvb
    replied
    I dunno, Frank - grounding OC3 will stick several signals at Stop, but connecting the SD3e1B Red input to +12VDC is likely to let some magic smoke out... :erm:

    (which is why I write notes to myself as I build this stuff)

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