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In-ko-pah RR: New pics

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  • #16
    Excellent modeling Ray! Beautiful work! :up:


    • #17
      Nice stuff again Ray.....always a fan.

      Can you PM me the link to the ghost towns?

      I misplaced it somewhere.....

      Thanks in advance...


      • #18
        Beautiful. Thanks for the update Ray.

        "And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln


        • #19
          Thanks guys!

          My ghost town pages are accessible through the same website as my In-ko-pah RR pics, but here's a direct link:

          There are some other useful things on my site too, such as Vintage Machinery and Vehicles:

          And the Modeler's Resource, a collection of reference photos for modeling and weathering, categorized by subject:



          • #20
            I don't have any photos on my computer showing the build of the stone cabin. I could scan the prints if I could find them, but that would take a small miracle in this mess I call my office.

            But I do have pics from a similar building, a small stone house with a board-and-batten second story. Here are some of the pics, and I'll point out some things I did differently on the cabin…

            This is the finished building, so you can see what I was working towards:

            I started by making a form out of foam core board, hot-glued together:

            To create openings for the door and windows, I cut blocks out of 1/2" foam core and glued them in place. As you can see, I also built up a section on one corner, to give the building a stubby "L" shape. (The stone cabin was just a simple rectangle.)

            I used a hammer to break up some thin stones into small pieces. I used tile nippers to adjust the shape of the stones when necessary. Then I used tweezers to place the stones into the form. In this photo you can see I was using regular tweezers to begin with, but later I switched to using curved tweezers, which made it much easier to reach into the confines of the form:

            The stones that had the squarest shape (or at least one square corner) were used around the openings and in the corners of the walls:

            When I'd filled one side with stones, I laid in a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth. In the narrower parts of the form I used brass rods for reinforcement:

            Then a 50/50 mix of high strength mortar and vinyl concrete patcher was poured into the form. It should be mixed to the consistency of pancake batter. You want it thin enough to get down between the stones but not so runny that it flows under them. Note too, that I tried to keep it clear of the adjoining walls, so that stones could be fitted there later.

            On this building, I simply smoothed the mortar after pouring it. For the stone cabin, I wanted bare stone walls for the interior, so while the mortar was still wet, I pressed small thin stones into it by hand.

            After the mortar sets up, turn the form on its side and repeat the process on the next wall:

            The process continues all the way around the form, one wall at a time. On the stone cabin, I used stone on all four sides. For this building, two of the walls were going to be hidden, so on those I skipped the stones and used only mortar and hardware cloth:

            When all the walls have been cast and the mortar has set, pull apart the form and remove the building. On this one, you can see the some mortar has gotten under the stones near the front corner:

            If this happens you can usually scrub it off with a wire brush, if it's not too thick. In this case it was too thick to do that, so I ended up scribing stone shapes into it, and painting them to match the real stones:

            If there are mortarless gaps between the stones, you can mix some up, rub it in with your finger and let it set to the "green" stage, where it's not fully hard. Then use water and a brush to scrub off the excess.

            Hope this helps! If anyone wants to see the entire step-by-step for this building, it's here:



            • #21
              Stunning. What a well thought out process!

              Thank you for posting these - it will give me much inspiration to draw from!



              • #22
                Just went through your SBS on your website. Simply as good as it gets!

                I will return there often for sure - thanks for being patient enough to document your work for the rest of us.




                • #23
                  Ray, you need to write a book on this layout and your construction techniques!!

                  Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)


                  • #24
                    Here are a couple new pics. In this first shot, a train is seen from below as it crosses the big trestle over Serenity Canyon:

                    Here's a shot from late in the day as a freight train crosses a stone arch bridge at the west end of the line. Above it is the Princess Shilo Mine. The Cliffside Mine can be seen in the distance at the top:



                    • #25
                      Ray, Another super structure. Great technique and results.


                      • #26
                        Ray, Not only am I in awe at your model making skills and great photography, my back is

                        breaking at the thought of all the cement and rock hauling you have done. :erm:

                        I salute you my friend.




                        • #27
                          As usual great pics, always look forward to seeing updates and action shots of the In-Ko-Pah


                          • #28
                            For the past few months I haven't been able to get any modeling done, but recently I had a little time and felt the need to work outdoors. I've long planned to put a small depot between the tracks at the town of Dos Manos, so I decided to do some prep work for that.

                            Until now, the tracks going through that area have just been on dirt, rocks and ballast. Even on the two stone bridges, there was a couple inches of soil under the tracks. I wanted to replace this with a concrete base, and also create a concrete foundation and sidewalks for the depot.

                            In this shot I've removed the track at the edge of the layout, dug out the ballast under it, and poured some concrete into the bridge. I used 1/4" hardware cloth to reinforce the concrete. The concrete is actually a mix of vinyl concrete patcher and high strength mortar mix:

                            I built up the track base, foundation, and sidewalk a little at a time, in sections. I also left a depression in the middle of the foundation -- this will be used to hold the wiring for the depot's lights. There is a 3/8" copper tube used as a conduit for the wiring. Then I marked the position of the tracks onto the concrete base, and built two forms out of foam core art board. These were positioned on the base in preparation for pouring the sidewalk:

                            Here's how it looked the next morning after I'd removed the forms:

                            Here's how it looks with some ballast added to two of the tracks. I may use a different colored ballast on the track closest to the town buildings, or I may glue on timbers between the rails, like at a grade crossing:

                            The depot foundation is still rough. I won't finalize it until I have designed the depot, and know exactly what the dimensions will be:

                            Anyway, that's all I've got for now.


                            • #29
                              Just catching up Ray - I don't know how I missed

                              the stone work on the building, but you nailed it sir!

                              I wish I could have an outside RR through the woods, but

                              the deer & bears wont give up the real estate.

                              Anyway, you are a true shows in your work.


                              • #30
                                Thanks, Bill!