Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Doodlebug kitbash

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • tct855
    replied
    Glen,

    What an awesome build! You did a truly fantastic job throughout. Thanx Thom...

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen_Haasdyk
    replied
    Thanks guys. My plan is to add the lighting to the Pullman that he's pulling.

    Leave a comment:


  • jschumaker
    replied
    Nice work, Glen.

    Jeff S

    Leave a comment:


  • George_D
    replied
    I have a thing for doodlebugs, Glen and your's is some nice piece of eye candy. The lighted interior really adds to it. Great job.

    George

    Leave a comment:


  • Bernd
    replied
    Great looking Doodlebug Glen. Love the interior.

    Bernd

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchman
    replied
    Congrats on finishing the kitbash, Glen. It turned out great.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen_Haasdyk
    replied
    Thanks for the tips guys, I'll have to keep that in mind for future projects.

    Well I finally finished it:



    I finished off the interior, built the box to hide the light wires, painted and added the passengers and crew, and finally added just a bit of weathering using grimy black and dirt polly-s paints to the trucks and underside.



    I have taken it for a test run but I haven't run much on the layout lately and I need to clean the track.





    The Rapido lighting worked out very well for the interior.

    Leave a comment:


  • desertdrover
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by jbvb


    Good progress, my apologies for not making this suggestion when it was timely: 3 mm 'T-1' LEDs can be shortened by filing - there's nothing critical in the 'domed' end, so file it flat. If you have the 'water clear' plastic encapsulation, you can see the silicon die between the ends of the two metal 'legs'. You can usually file to within .030" of that safely.


    Hi Glen, going along with what James posted, the second picture shows (with red shorting the LED) what he talks about. The other pictures just shows how LED's can be cut or shaved for any situation. With the last picture showing two holes drilled into an LED with two fiber optics to be used for small Locomotive running lights. Hope this helps with future LED lighting needs.


    Leave a comment:


  • jbvb
    replied
    Good progress, my apologies for not making this suggestion when it was timely: 3 mm 'T-1' LEDs can be shortened by filing - there's nothing critical in the 'domed' end, so file it flat. If you have the 'water clear' plastic encapsulation, you can see the silicon die between the ends of the two metal 'legs'. You can usually file to within .030" of that safely.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen_Haasdyk
    replied

    I'm nearing the end now. All the interior pieces are coming together:



    The interior fits nicely behind the decoder and associated wiring, still working a crew and passenger list for it. You can see the Rapido lighting unit in the roof. It is long enough the it will shed some light into the baggage/ RPO section as well. The black stick at the bottom of the photo is the magnetic 'wand' the you use to turn the lights on and off with.



    I finished off the exterior details, adding the ladders/stirrups beside the baggage, RPO and cab doors. I just have some detail painting to do and that's done.



    Finally I added a wiring retainer to the fishbelly frame to keep the wires in place, I also painted the wires black to hide them a bit better.

    I plan to airbrush the trucks and underside to weather them a bit yet but it's almost finished.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen_Haasdyk
    replied
    Getting back on track with this project. Using some clear silicone caulking, I installed the motor and flywheel, then sent to unit out to my DCC guy for the wiring:



    It has a Lenz decoder installed and then I decided to ad an LED to the roof mounted light so some re-engineering was required.



    I had to drill out the headlight for the LED but the LED was too long with the wires so I'll have to build a small cover over them. I originally wasn't going to add lighting but I found this in my local hobby shop a few weeks ago:



    It was N scale but it will fit the passenger compartment and it was the right price.

    Leave a comment:


  • Carrie_Creek
    replied
    Glen, I used black RTV to hold the motor in my MDC shay. Has been holding well so far.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchman
    replied
    It is good to see more progress on this project, Glen.

    Although I haven't used it for this purpose, I too have read of using silicon caulk adhesive to hold motors in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • George_D
    replied
    I've been gone for the last month and I'm just getting caught up. Your paint job really brings the doodlebug to life. She's looking good. I'm looking forward to the video.

    George

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen_Haasdyk
    replied
    I finally got back to the project this past week, starting with the interior:



    first added windows all around then, scratchbuilt the interior from sheet styrene and uses Alexander coach seats, twenty of them in all for a passenger capacity of forty. The interior is removable, in case I want to add any more details later.

    I then started to finish off the drive



    I found some proto power west components that worked with the shaft diameter of my chosen motor. I needed the flywheel and motor-side universal from them. They slid right onto the motor's long shaft.



    Here it is installed but not glued down. I've never attached a motor without screw before, I've heard some use silicon?

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X