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**Bernd** · 12-09-2014, 08:01 AM

Glenn,

Neoprean tubing (model airplane fuel line). The smallest you can get. Probably your local hardware store might carry that size tubing. Only thing I found is the hole is sometimes not on center. When the motor runs at it's highest RPM you get some vibration.

Here's my scratchbuilt eddy current drive that I used 1/8"OD fuel line. You put a ball bearing in the tube so it bends easier for truck swivel.

Hope this helps. Questions, just ask.

Bernd

**desertdrover** · 12-09-2014, 08:08 AM

Glen, if Bachmann doesn't have your replacement universal cups, try AC gluing them. I have an Athearn 2-8-2 Locomotive that this happened to, and they did not have replacement parts for me. I ruffed up the shaft some, then super glued the cup onto the shaft. Several years have gone by now and this method is still holding up. As a last resort, give it a try.

**Glen_Haasdyk** · 12-10-2014, 04:23 AM

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Bernd, due to the size and space I don't think the tubing would work :

There's just not enough room from what I can see.

Louis, I tried the AC thing on the shaft, slipped the cup back on and let it set up overnight but this slippery-type plastic doesn't hold.

I ended up buying the parts from Bachmann after all. They don't sell the cups separately, but they do sell them attached to the worm gear(4$) and motor(18$). Fortunately the cup is the same on both the motor and worm gear so I bought two worm gears and I'll just slip the cup off one and onto the motor shaft.

Once I fix the drive I'll be installing a digitrax DZ-143 decoder and then it's off to the paint shop.

**railmus** · 12-10-2014, 05:08 AM

I like to use epoxy to glue drive parts to the shafts.

I score the shaft or sometimes file a flat spot so after the epoxy sets up there is no way the parts can slip.

I also score the inside of the cups,etc.

The epoxy acts like a wedge.

**john_holt** · 12-13-2014, 08:32 PM

I can't remember exactly where I read this. But someone had a cracked gear in a loco similar to what you described and repaired the crack using acc. The deal here is he washed the gears thoroughly to remove all grease and oil, applied slow setting acc glue and then took some very strong, fine wire and wrapped the round shoulder of the gear with several wraps and let it sit in a small vise until the glue was dry. The glue held the gear and wire wraps in place. Obviously, the wire wraps cannot exceed the gear diameter. The author of the story said this repair was still holding after a couple of years. I hope you can get a visual from my poorly written description. John

**Bernd** · 12-14-2014, 04:09 AM

quote:

Originally posted by john holt

I can't remember exactly where I read this. But someone had a cracked gear in a loco similar to what you described and repaired the crack using acc. The deal here is he washed the gears thoroughly to remove all grease and oil, applied slow setting acc glue and then took some very strong, fine wire and wrapped the round shoulder of the gear with several wraps and let it sit in a small vise until the glue was dry. The glue held the gear and wire wraps in place. Obviously, the wire wraps cannot exceed the gear diameter. The author of the story said this repair was still holding after a couple of years. I hope you can get a visual from my poorly written description. John

John,

Geoff Bunza wrote an article about battery powering one of these engines in Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine. For those that don't know the magazine is an E-zine started by Joe Fugate. Here's the link to the article. Geoff explains how he repaired a split gear using that method. Page 85 shows the gear fix.

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/m...-models?page=1 Click on either portrait or landscape. It'll take you to that article or you can try this link directly to the article.

http://mrhpub.com/2014-11-nov/land/#/83

Bernd

**john_holt** · 12-20-2014, 06:51 PM

Bernd...Thanks for the wrap-up info on the gear repair article. John

**Glen_Haasdyk** · 12-20-2014, 11:40 PM

Thanks for sharing these repair techniques guys.

In other news I got the replacement parts in the mail this past week. I'm just going to finish up another project and then I'll get back to this engine.

**Glen_Haasdyk** · 12-26-2014, 02:29 PM

I got to repairing the engine today. I took each truck apart, washed the grease off with some Palmolive dish soap an re-assembled them.

They went back together easily. Of course I re-gauged the trucks before re-assembly and re-lubed the gears with a small dollop of plastic-compatible grease.

These are the two worm gears I got from Bachmann. I used one to replace the work that had the cracked cup and the removed the other cup to replace the cracked one on the motor. Upon re-assembly everything ran smoothly on my test track. Now it's back to installing a digitrax DZ-143 decoder and getting this project back to where it was three weeks ago.

**Glen_Haasdyk** · 12-28-2014, 12:25 PM

I got the loco back from my decoder guy today, runs excellent. Now to turn it to a Canadian national locomotive that operated out of my town back in the late fifties through the sixties:

As you can see there are a few differences on the Canadian 44 ton that are not on the American versions. One is the headlight. Unfortunately no one makes that particular light so I'm going to leave that part the way it is. Two things I am going to change are the marker lights and the number boards above the front windows. The marker lights were portable and were held on by angle brackets depending on which way the engine was running. The number boards were angled between the exhaust and the roof, just above the windows. The engine was also equipped with MU connections and sunshades over the side windows.

A friend of mine runs a web page of the history of rail in Kelowna and gave me permission to use these pictures.

**lv4142003** · 12-28-2014, 03:31 PM

Doesn't the Bachmann 70 tonner come with the sealed beam headlight option ? Maybe buy a shell from Bachmann and cut the headlight off and transplant it to the 44 tonner. Actually, you'll need 2 shells....

**Glen_Haasdyk** · 12-28-2014, 05:37 PM

I did look into that option but, each shell is 25$ plus 12$ for shipping means 62$ for a couple of headlight castings. A bit too much for my wallet.

**rlundy** · 12-29-2014, 12:10 AM

Glen all you would need is one shell. It has a headlamp front and back. I have one here I am not using. I bought it for the chassis which is going to be used for an On30 loco. $15 plus shipping and it is yours. Ron.

**Glen_Haasdyk** · 12-30-2014, 09:20 AM

Thanks to Ron I have a set of sealed beam headlights on the way. In the meantime I did a bit of re-work to the locomotive. First by removing all the handrails, air hoses, uncoupling levels ect that would get in the way for the new paint job. Then a couple hour's dip in isopropyl alcohol and the old paint and decals were stripped.

I added the brackets for the marker lights:

and the new number boards:

I also started to fill the old headlight holes But I'll finish those up when the new lights arrive.

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