Thanks, Bruce!

:up:

Philip

Thank you!

That was quick. Nice start.

Thank you, Bill. It’s gone fairly smoothly so far.
Mike

Hi Mike,

It's been a month since I visited your progress. My bad!

I really like what you did with the kindling factory...it's a great addition to the Southern Central Railroad!

Fast start indeed! The green glow in the northwestern sky is envy....

Pete

in Michigan

Thank you David and Pete!

David, I did a little more work on details for the factory yesterday. Stay tuned.

Pete, don’t be too envious. Significant slowdown on the freight house the last couple of days.

Mike

I'm making progress on my freight house. Here are a couple of photos of the roof with all rafters in and the little "dormers" in place:





It looks delicate at this point but in fact it is very strong. The annoying part was putting the little pieces of scale 6" by 10" between each truss section. However, they not only spaced the trusses at the right distance, they also glued everything together firmly.

I am using scale 1" by 10" Mt. Albert stripwood to sheath the roof:





A little further along:



The result should be a very strong, resilient roof, not subject to warping. Also, it will be a good platform for the simulated metal roofing I plan to use.

Mike

That's a lot of angle cutting...

dave

Mike, excellent work on all of those rafters!

Looks like a very strong roof.

Greg Shinnie

Looks good, Mike. What happens when you sheath the ends and that sheathing meets the side roof boards at the diagonal rafters at the corners?

it's looking good Mike, But why didn't you use the usual cardboard?

Bob

Ok Mike, I went back to check if you used a jig to assemble those rafters. I see no mention of a jig.

I'm impressed how straight they are. If I'd have built one like that there would be a dip in the roof. Nice job.

Bernd

Thanks Dave, Greg, Bill, Bob and Bernd!

Dave: yes, lots of angles. In fact I'm angling to get this done in the next couple of weeks.

Greg, Yes, pretty strong. Despite the small components, the sheer number and relatively precise fit (well, I try for precision) means that the result is pretty robust.

Bill, when I finished all the rafters, I sanded each side roof with a sandpaper-wrapped block to smooth down little irregularities. Then I sanded each end roof. These two operations created little angles along the upper edges of the long corner rafters. I sheathed the sides first. If the ends of the 1X10"s were a little long, that was ok, because I re-sanded the end roof rafters with the block to clean up each edge of the sheathing. After adding end sheathing I re-sanded the side roofs to clean up any ends of the end sheathing that were a little proud. I'm not sure if it shows much, but here's a closeup of one of the places the side and end sheathing meet:



Bob, I've gone down this path before when I needed to do a hipped roof. I think the result is more precise. By the time I cut out card or sheetwood roof panels, try to bevel the edges so they meet, test fit everything, cut new pieces or figure out how to fill in the gaps, brace everything when nothing meets at a right angle, and finally add all the rafter ends, I don't think I would be that far ahead.

Bernd, no I don't need a jig . . .

JUST KIDDING!!

Yes, here's the jig:



Meanwhile, all the sheathing is on except for the overhang, which needs to be painted first:



Maybe I'll add the doors soon.

Mike