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Projects in Progress on the Southern Central RR

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  • #16
    Very nice work on the boxcars, Michael.

    George
    The sky is not my limit, it's my playground.

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    • #17
      Thank you for the kind comments.

      Bernd, I am using the MicroMark products. Previously I had used the Bragdon line and it worked just fine. One thing I've learned is to use up the materials promptly, especially the rtv rubber. I was rather frantically building masters and pouring molds all spring and summer to use it up. Still have about a third of the resin to use.

      Mike
      _________________________________________________

      Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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      • #18
        quote:


        Originally posted by Michael Hohn


        Thank you for the kind comments.

        Bernd, I am using the MicroMark products. Previously I had used the Bragdon line and it worked just fine. One thing I've learned is to use up the materials promptly, especially the rtv rubber. I was rather frantically building masters and pouring molds all spring and summer to use it up. Still have about a third of the resin to use.

        Mike


        That's one thing I noticed too was that you need to use the compounds up in less than a year. Once air gets inside it has a limited shelf life.

        I started out with Micro Mark's rubber and resin. Found that the resin gets brittle if you pressure cast it. I switched to Smooth-On after finding out what Gene Fusco used on his models.

        You've given me some incentive to try and do some resin car casting. I'm going to need quite a few cars for my limestone quarry operation.

        Bernd
        New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

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        • #19
          Micro Mark resin is Smooth On resin. Smooth On makes it and repackages it for Micro Mark. Same with RTV.
          Dave Husman



          Iron Men and wooden cars

          Visit my website : www.wnbranch.com

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          • #20
            quote:


            Originally posted by dave1905


            Micro Mark resin is Smooth On resin. Smooth On makes it and repackages it for Micro Mark. Same with RTV.


            That may be, but there's got to be different grades. Micro Mark might not be getting the best resin. The rubber might not be the same either. Micro Mark is green while Smooth On is a blue, plus the rubber feels different. Again perhaps Micro Mark's not getting the best rubber. Smooth On may be manufacturing for Micro Mark. In my opinion I think Smooth On is better.

            Your mileage may vary.

            Bernd
            New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

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            • #21
              Weather cooperated, my garage was warm, and I did some airbrush work. Here are the results as shown in an iPhone quickie:



              A couple of days letting the paint dry and I'll be ready to decal. I had a little oops and need to replace one of the brake wheels.

              Regarding the molding rubber I'm using, it's MicroMark's "One-to-One/Rapid 4-hour cure RTV silicone mold rubber". I usually let it cure overnight.

              Mike
              _________________________________________________

              Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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              • #22
                quote:


                One thing I've learned is to use up the materials promptly, especially the rtv rubber.


                I try to avoid any storage of either the RTV or the resin. Once open, I make just molds and pour resin until I run out of everything.

                I started out using those products; Smooth On, etc., but found that they all cured to quickly for my purposes and I moved over to the RTV and resin products from Freeman (now marketed by Miapoxy). When I started using their resin, they recommended storing the resin no more than 6 months after breaking the seal on the containers.
                In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding.

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                • #23
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by mwbpequod


                  I try to avoid any storage of either the RTV or the resin. Once open, I make just molds and pour resin until I run out of everything.

                  I started out using those products; Smooth On, etc., but found that they all cured to quickly for my purposes and I moved over to the RTV and resin products from Freeman (now marketed by Miapoxy). When I started using their resin, they recommended storing the resin no more than 6 months after breaking the seal on the containers.


                  Martin,

                  You jogged my memory, Miapoxy was the other one I looked into.

                  Bernd
                  New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

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                  • #24
                    I've been working on and off on a car shop for my railroad, the Southern Central. The footprint follows an old insurance map, but the rest I have to invent. It's a long, narrow building with another couple of buildings attached. I have some of the walls built, and today have been planking the floor. Tedious, but I take many breaks. Almost done:




                    I have yet to plank between the rails. Boards are pre-stained but after all are down I will go over the whole floor with a weathered brown stain.
                    _________________________________________________

                    Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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                    • #25
                      I take it the openings are for service pits?
                      James

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                      • #26
                        Yes, service pits indeed. I debated with myself over including them but followed plans for other car shops. Unfortunately, none of the plans were for the northeast in the 1880's. Can't always follow prototype when no data.

                        Plus, they look neat.
                        _________________________________________________

                        Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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                        • #27
                          Working on the front of the car shop. I used a compass with knife to cut the trim over the door.


                          _________________________________________________

                          Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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                          • #28
                            It's been a busy week at work and at home so progress has been limited. Nevertheless, I added one of the walls to the floor. I started trimming the battens for later application of a trim piece.

                            I want to maintain a company look by using similar architecture and paint on all my line's structures, so I am trying to match the style used in an engine house I built in the 90's. You can see it in the background of this photo.




                            I was uncertain the size of stripwood I used twenty years ago but I did a little measuring and pulled out a pack of what seemed the right size. Lo and behold, there was a piece of left-over trim from the enginehouse project in the pack. Never thought it would be so easy but I guess there were only so many choices.

                            Mike

                            _________________________________________________

                            Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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                            • #29
                              Further Progress on the Car Shop

                              I just about have all the sides glued on the floor. Because the sides warped considerably, it takes extra clamps to make sure everything stays where it should as the glue dries.


                              _________________________________________________

                              Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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                              • #30
                                Making so much progress on my car shop that I decided to start a new project kitbashing two B.T.S. boxcar kits to increase my B&O roster and to take part in a builds challenge:

                                http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...TOPIC_ID=44328

                                I've had a couple B.T.S kits hanging around for several years now and I just needed a little motivation. I even have the decals. One kit is for the B&O M-2 boxcar, the other for a generic radial-roof 32' boxcar. I'm going to create two M-1 boxcars using old photos and car diagrams for guidance. The B&O rostered 28' cars in the thousands, whereas in the year I am modeling, 34' B&O cars were much less common.

                                Here is where I am so far:



                                The first task was to shorten both to a 28' 2" interior length. In case I decide to leave a door or two open, I did the surgery on the sides toward the ends of the cars. I'm not too worried about the interior framing. The joints in the photos look a little crude but in fact the sides and underframe glued up pretty good as long as I wasn't too ham-fisted. They are pretty strong at this point.

                                I have already decided to "improve" the kit by substituting full-width body bolsters for the ones supplied.

                                --Mike

                                _________________________________________________

                                Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

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