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Re-motoring a FED 4-4-0

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  • Re-motoring a FED 4-4-0

    I'm almost done re-motoring my FED 4-4-0, just waiting on some silicon tubing to come to finish it up. The original universal set up was not re-usable. FYI, the ball part of the universal drive is a brass ball pinned onto the motor shaft through a hole in the shafts. I found it impossible to removed it without damaging. There is not much room in the loco for a NWSL universal socket and I'm trying to avoid grinding away any of the loco to accommodate one.
















  • #2
    I improved electrical pick up by adding a brass wire wiper to the front truck on the same side that the drivers have conductivity, turning one tender truck 180 degrees to pick up electricity on the other side, and bridged the circuit board with a piece of brass wire to complete the circuit. I also removed the brass weight in the boiler and stuffed all the lead in there I could and under the cab roof and on each side of the cab under the window.

    The motor is NWS 10 x 12 x 25 with a matching 7mm long fly wheel, not sure how much good the small fly wheel will do. I put bushings on the motor shaft in hopes of using the original universal set up at 2mm, but as mentioned above will try the silicone tubing before making this any more complicated.

    A wire spring on the draw bar and wiring the motor as much as possible as the original set up allowed pretty much finished it up for now. I need to replace the temporary electrical tape on the bottom of the tender with proper insulated washers to keep things from shorting out. Right now the motor is held on with double sided tape, I hope that is sufficient. If not I'll use silicon caulk when I'm ready to make things permanent.

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    • #3
      Looks like a good job to me, I'm absolutely sure it'll be an improvement. Thanks for all the pictures, I have one of these to do myself.

      -Cody

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      • #4
        The tubing works nicely with a 1/4" long piece of shaft material placed midway between the ends to eliminate some of the slop. Probably not as smooth as a universal setup, but it does hold the loco and tender together nicely when handling them. Loco speed is a little high, I think a 4:1 reduction gear head would improve things a lot even if it prevented being able to use a fly wheel. With the weight I added to the loco and this motor, this set up will pull far more cars than the prototype could ever hope to.

        Since this is my first loco up and running I'm going to keep it as is for now. Maybe add a universal joint on the motor shaft and keep the tubing on the loco side at some point?

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        • #5
          Here's an idea I employed with silicone tube couplings. May help smooth out your drive system.

          http://www.clag.org.uk/silicone-tube.html

          http://www.clag.org.uk/cv-couplings.html

          Bernd
          New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

          Main thread to all that's happening on the NY,V & N Rwy. The New York, Vermont -and- Northern Rwy. - Railroad Line Forums (railroad-line.com)

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          • #6
            quote:


            Originally posted by Bernd


            Here's an idea I employed with silicone tube couplings. May help smooth out your drive system.

            http://www.clag.org.uk/silicone-tube.html

            http://www.clag.org.uk/cv-couplings.html

            Bernd


            Bernd,

            That's great information. With the FED design of the motor in the tender and drive shaft in the loco, I'm picturing a set up with two balls and shaft material in the center. Does that make sense?

            Also, do you think there is any significant advantage to using a telescopic shaft?

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            • #7
              quote:


              Originally posted by wstrouse


              Bernd,

              That's great information. With the FED design of the motor in the tender and drive shaft in the loco, I'm picturing a set up with two balls and shaft material in the center. Does that make sense?

              Also, do you think there is any significant advantage to using a telescopic shaft?


              Yes that's correct, you will need two balls.

              To your second question I truly can't say. If you think about the older style couplings, there was some slop in the ball fitting inside the knuckle. So it may help. I didn't do that on this power fixture I built to test an idea.



              The long shaft between the trucks should have a sliding shaft. Being as heavy as the chassis is I don't think it would make a difference. The only thing I would suggest is to try it both ways.

              Bernd
              New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

              Main thread to all that's happening on the NY,V & N Rwy. The New York, Vermont -and- Northern Rwy. - Railroad Line Forums (railroad-line.com)

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              • #8
                Any updates, did you get her painted yet?

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