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Large scale Indoor layout

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  • #31
    Well Santa came yesterday.

    I got all the turnouts that I ordered. They came in nicely packed. They are really beautiful turnouts. Nicely built and are very sturdy. I am using these with DCC and had the micro switch option installed. Bruce "at Switchmasters" Puts a waterproof mircoswitch Between the Switch-point rails to make sure the polarity Is correct.

    Ty










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    • #32
      4:14 am? You better check your alarm clock; I think its set wrong.

      The weathered boards look great. I’m really liking those switches. Much better than the ones we bought. They were and still are a struggle to get them to operate correctly. The idea of no hinge in the point rails is nice, one less thing to go wrong.
      Frank

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      • #33
        Frank,

        My day starts at 3:15 Tuesday - Friday. That gives me time to get up get dressed and have afew minutes to get a couple things done.

        I am really a pleased with the turnouts. They are designed for outdoor use and the rails are double spiked at each tie. I got the weatherd rail which is a charcoal grey. I may hand weather them a different color.

        For the price they can't be beat. If you check them against the kits that are out there or the pre made ones they are very reasonable.

        Ty

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        • #34
          Hey Guys,

          My wife left to go on her yearly mission trip to Nicaragua.

          She left last Sunday and will be gone for 12 days.She runs the medical mission that is part of a larger over all mission trip.

          I always take this time of for a stay-cation. I usually get alot of work done. Last year I got most of the Modular I built together during this time.

          This year I am working hard on getting most of the indoor layout in place.

          I have spent the last three days pulling my shop apart and negotiating terms for a right of way for the railroad to go through. Well I threw away a bunch of junk. and I have cut holes in walls and cleared out enough room for the train to go all the way around my shop. It come out to about 96 ft of main line which is not bad for and indoor layout in this scale...

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          • #35
            I had 2 large areas where I had to to build more bench work. I have been incorporating storage into the bench work that I am doing.

            First I went to the Local Restore and looked at the available cabinets. I found 2 that would work for one bench. All my bench work needs to be 43" high. I have found most cabinets are between 34.5" -35.5" tall.

            The first set I bought was 35.5".

            The way I get the height correct is first I mount a 2"x4" to the front and to the back of the cabinets. I also have to figure out the distance I am wanting the cabinets to be apart.

            I also Mount a stringer along the wall 42.25" high. Once i have the 2"x 4" mounted I move the front of the cabinets out so the front doors and drawers will be easily accessed.

            I then make L-Griders and mount them to the 2"x4"'s By mounting the L-Griders to the 2"x4"'s I can adjust the height to the 38.75".

            On the L-girders I mount the stringers which brings the height to 42.25". To the stringers I add 3/4" cabinet grade plywood..












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            • #36
              Here is another piece of bench work that included a 60" sink base that has drawers and cabinets below...



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              • #37
                Here are pictures of the rest of the right of way..








                this is going through my paint room...I guess I will have to make covers for each end or just one big tunnel to keep the smell from the rest of the shop when painting...


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                • #38
                  I have to have 2 lifouts in my layout so I gave get around easily. One is in a main isle and will be out a lot. The second is in a closet and will only have to come out once in a blue moon. Here is the first lift out. I added 2 1x4's to the end of each bench which will allow 1.5" for the lifout to sit on. I then cut out the lift out base.

                  I then added a 3/4 x 3" ply on the bottom of the liftout . With the lift out in place I drilled throught the bottom piece into the base. I then added a blind nut and 1/4 x 20 to each end. I then went back and added stinger for support..











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                  • #39
                    well I got busy putting main line of track together and forgot to take pics.. So here is a video of a small noisy rail car. It goes around all 95 ft with just one connection . I could not believe it ...

                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpGbjCOWYuc

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                    • #40
                      The track is just put together to get it all around the room . I had not secured it to the top surface yet..

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                      • #41
                        Ty, code 250 would look so much better even if you use the plastic ties.
                        Frank

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                        • #42
                          I am using the micro engineering code 250 track and ties. It will look much better once I get it ballasted...

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                          • #43
                            I am using the micro engineering code 250 track and ties. It will look much better once I get it ballasted...

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                            • #44
                              I don't know whyvit triple posted?

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                              • #45
                                You must be patient Grasshopper.
                                Frank

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