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Tichy hopper car details

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  • #31
    quote:

    Originally posted by Thorn Creek and Western

    Originally posted by Greg Rich

    Dave,

    The car is looking good! Your selection of trucks give it some personality.

    I also noticed that you have prominently displayed in front of your car some "tools of the trade". Are you using that partial piece of styrene as a decal locating template? If so, could you elaborate on your technique? I always like to see how other guys do things.

    Greg

    Greg-

    That's not a styrene template, it's the sheet of decals itself! If I squint real hard I can just make out the word "WABASH" on my monitor. I didn't use a template on this car. I did, however, use that gridded C-Thru ruler to keep the letters straight. (The word "CHESAPEAKE," for instance, is made of five separate decal pieces.)

    -Dave
    -Dave

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    • #32
      Dave,Ypu, you're right! I squinted and I see WABASH 2x on there. . . . I'm OK

      Greg

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      • #33
        And now it's time to finish this car. With the decaling done and the air hoses painted I airbrushed the car with Floquil Dust--



        This served as preliminary weathering and gave the paint surface a little 'tooth.'

        The rest of the weathering was done with Bragdon powders. I used three colors: weathered brown, medium rust, and soot--



        Brushes were used to add, blend, and remove color. I used a finger tip if I needed to remove any especially stubborn pigment.

        As you can see, the tops of Pringles potato chip cans make excellent little palettes.

        I chose to give the car a heavily used but not overly rusted look as it would have appeared during the war years.

        This kit builds into a fine model and I hope that in the future Tichy will correct and improve their instruction sheet.





        -Dave
        -Dave

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        • #34
          I like the look that you've achieved with the weathering, Dave. Nice car all around.
          Bruce

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          • #35
            :up: Well Done!
            ~Jeff

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            • #36
              Outstanding modeling job, Dave! Luv that weathering... :up:

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              • #37
                Nice job on the hopper, Dave.

                George
                The sky is not my limit, it's my playground.

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                • #38
                  Thanks, y'all, for the kind words.

                  There is something I forgot to mention early on in my construction notes. The inside slope sheets on the body casting have round 'release marks' on them--



                  I don't know the technical name for these, but I didn't want them to be visible in my finished car. Since they're very shallow I found I could get rid of them quite easily using K&S Flex-I-Grit sanding film.

                  -Dave
                  -Dave

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                  • #39
                    Dave,

                    Nice job on the hopper! I like the way your weathering brings it all together. Using a dusting of Floquil as a base for your Bragden's application is an idea I'd like to use.

                    Keep'em rolling!

                    Greg R.

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                    • #40
                      Dave,

                      I am thinking that is a "parting line" where parts of the mold come together. Usually is a line, in this case it looks like a sort of plug. Thats my guess anyway.
                      ~Jeff

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                      • #41
                        Not that it really, matters but they're actually called "ejector pin marks." The parts are pushed out of the molds by ejector pins and this happens while the plastic is still warm, so they leave marks. Kit designers try to design their molds so the marks are in places where they aren't too visible, like inside a fuselage or on the inside of the wall of a structure.

                        Tichy probably figured these marks would be hidden by a coal load or weathering.

                        (Jimmy Sacco educated me on this subject. City Classic kits are all injection molded.)

                        Nice job on the model!

                        Don

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                        • #42
                          This is an excellent thread and very educational, Dave. Thanks for all of the detail. Tichy kits are very nice. I have 12 of the ore cares to put together , hopefully this year. Threads like this are going to be very helpful.

                          Roy

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                          • #43
                            I know this is over two years old, but I got to say boy, I am glad I found this thread. I'm about to start on a six-pack of these Tichy Panel Hoppers. This is a big help, thanks!
                            CC&CI: The Chicopee Road

                            http://cccirr.blogspot.com

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                            • #44
                              I have built the Covered Hopper version of this car as I used to see them trundling from Maumee. OH to Toledo, OH during the year delivering grain from the Anderson's elevator in Maumee to the Port elevators in Toledo for export.

                              The first car #185 I built 20 years ago but never finished, as the author mentioned the instructions sort of suck and I ended up switching the A and B ends of the car. The second one went together a lot better and I added the piping etc but, missed the retaining valve and main airline, maybe the third one will get better as I have ten of these to build.



                              [IMG]http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx292/dti406/Covered%20Hopper/P1010007_zps482f4b16.jpg%5B/IMG%7D
                              %5BIMG%5Dhttp://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx292/dti406/Covered%20Hopper/P1010008_zps014a3c12.jpg[/IMG]

                              Thanks for looking!

                              Rick J

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                              • #45
                                Dave,

                                Any hints on drilling the holes on the triple valve and reservoir? I've tried a few ways but have yet to hit upon a method that isn't akin to performing a self root canal.

                                Drew

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