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  • Atlas RS-1 Handrail issue

    I am working on a pair of RS-1`s for the Rutland. Part of the project is replacing the stock handrails for Smokey Valley handrails. The problem I have run into is with the stantion mounting on the frame. There is a lip at the top of the walkway of the RS-1 frame, which seems more pronounced than the prototype engines. The stantion has no notch to fit over it, so I am wondering if I need to cut a notch into that lip for the stantion. Or do I build out the frame under the lip with some thin styrene? Or do I file the lip down? Surely I am not the first to run into this issue. Any advice?

    Photos attached below.





    Thanks in advance for any help.
    --

    Phillip Blancher

    Modelling the Rutland in 1957

    http://www.rutlandrailway.con

  • #2
    Phillip,

    Either approach you mention would work. I'm not sure what others have done and I don't do that type of detailing. Of the two approaches, the shim is probably the easier one.

    If they don't see this thread, you might want to shoot either Steamnut or Red P a PM to get their ideas.
    Bruce

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    • #3
      Many people cut the hand rails off flush with the stanchions and drill them out and replace them with wire custom bent to fit. I have a photo on the home computer of an RS-1 that Don Janes did for me using that method if you would like me to post it.
      http://www.dougcoffey.com/html/model_railroad.html

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      • #4
        Yes please. Thanks Doug.
        --

        Phillip Blancher

        Modelling the Rutland in 1957

        http://www.rutlandrailway.con

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        • #5
          Phillip, As Bruce stated (Of the two approaches, the shim is probably the easier one) But, you can see where Don Janes did a how-to on "Detailing and Painting Rutland RS-3 #205" here;

          http://users.rcn.com/jimdu4/Modeling...d/JanesRS3.htm

          He stated "I started by filling in the stanchion holes in the deck with styrene. After they were dry I drilled them out for the new Smokey Valley stanchions (this step is not necessary if you use the Atlas handrails). Next I used a wide blade Zona saw to cut off the front plate immediately ahead of the steps, making sure that the cut was straight and that only the front plate was removed. This area was filed flat and the new end plate was glued on. At this time I drilled all the necessary holes and test fitted all the grab irons, handrails, and cut levers but left them off until after painting.

          "


          Louis L&R Western Railroad
          Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

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          • #6
            After checking the pictures of the original, my method would be to shave the lip off the walkways and making them flush with the side sills. Then I would scribe a line with the caliper to mark the walkway, and in the process make it thinner and more to scale.
            Michael Graff

            "Deo Adjuvante Labor Proficit"

            Swedish custom model builder.

            http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart

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            • #7
              Phil, I made a page on my web site for diesels and the first photo is the RS-1 Don detailed for me by flush cutting the hand rails off at the stanchions and drilling them for wire. I know he did a few that way for himself, Lou Sassi and the one I have.

              Here is the photo link http://www.dougcoffey.com/html/diesels.html

              I tried it Don's way on another RS-1 I have and the flush cutting/drillin method works very well. I use a pin to start a centered hole impression and then go to a drill bit in a pin vice to finish.
              http://www.dougcoffey.com/html/model_railroad.html

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