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**mabloodhound** · 03-17-2013, 02:09 PM

What about making the roof removable by using some magnets in the corners of the body with metal strips on the underside of the roof to hold it on.

**Ironhand_13** · 03-18-2013, 12:34 PM

Actually I'm leaning towards that. I've managed over the past months to break off one of the front tabs and seriously bend its opposite number on the other side. It still stays down, which tells me there is no bowing so I think magnets would in fact work. If I do decide to go that route I may just buy a spare roof from Bachmann (they are available) just in case.

**Ironhand_13** · 03-19-2013, 11:58 AM

Wow, still no Louis...getting seriously worried now.

**pmmcgraw** · 09-18-2019, 04:30 PM

I'm writing to revive an old topic, "Bachmann Doodlebug - adding sound," that was last replied to over six years ago--on 3/19/13:

My research results included the Model Railroader article from several years ago, and this topic in the Railroad Line Forum. I, too, would like to add DCC and sound to my Doodlebug, and I learned from the research that the big problem is that the decoders (at least those available up to 2013) were too thick to fit under the roof without some extra work (such as the solution described in MR).

Two Tsunami sound decoders mentioned in some of the posts on the thread were the TSU 750 and TSU 1000, but I couldn't find them on the Soundtraxx website, so I called Soundtraxx and learned that these had been replaced with models with different numbers.

Sorry for the long buildup, but to get to my question to the forum: Does anybody know whether in the meantime either Soundtraxx or any other manufacturer has built a decoder that would fit the doodlebug without modifications?

Thanks for any advice.

Peter

**desertdrover** · 09-19-2019, 04:42 AM

quote:

Originally posted by pmmcgraw

I'm writing to revive an old topic, "Bachmann Doodlebug - adding sound," that was last replied to over six years ago--on 3/19/13:

My research results included the Model Railroader article from several years ago, and this topic in the Railroad Line Forum. I, too, would like to add DCC and sound to my Doodlebug, and I learned from the research that the big problem is that the decoders (at least those available up to 2013) were too thick to fit under the roof without some extra work (such as the solution described in MR).

Two Tsunami sound decoders mentioned in some of the posts on the thread were the TSU 750 and TSU 1000, but I couldn't find them on the Soundtraxx website, so I called Soundtraxx and learned that these had been replaced with models with different numbers.

Sorry for the long buildup, but to get to my question to the forum: Does anybody know whether in the meantime either Soundtraxx or any other manufacturer has built a decoder that would fit the doodlebug without modifications?

Thanks for any advice.

Peter

I remember being here on this thread a few years back.

Peter, these days there are many sound decoders that will fit the doodlebug just fine including decoders from "Electronic Solutions Ulm GmbH & Co. KG: LokSound - ESU".

The doodlebug baggage compartment has plenty of room for fitting in a sound decoder. Picture attached shows where one modeler placed his decoder.

**pmmcgraw** · 09-19-2019, 11:17 AM

Desertdrover,

Thanks for your reply, not to mention the great photo!

But dang! I see I asked the wrong question! The problem wasn't the decoder itself, but the plug! If you plugged a sound decoder's plug into the DC but "DCC-ready" socket provided in the doodlebug, the roof wouldn't go back on because the sound decoder's plug was too thick. There were solutions, both in the Model RR article and in the discussion, but I'm wondering whether there are now newer sound decoders that come with thinner plugs that solve the problem without the need for any of the fixes that were needed with the decoders that were available back in 2011-13.

I haven't explored the LokSound decoders, but will definitely look into them.

Peter

**desertdrover** · 09-19-2019, 12:10 PM

Nope, Peter, you have to re-wire, or find a plug like the first page suggested in this thread. All plugs will be the same with todays decoders. If you can't re-wire, find a friend that can re-wire and install it for you. There aren't any other options here for the Bachmann Doodlebugs. Sorry!

**desertdrover** · 09-19-2019, 02:47 PM

I've been thinking about your situation, and I don't know what Bachmann decoder ready board you have. They made different ones through time. However, In the drawing below, of one of the Bachmann decoder boards, why can't you remove the dummy plug, and insert a DCC plug like the views shown, and then wire your sound decoder to that style plug? This style plug is no higher/taller than the dummy plug used in the Doodlebug.

**desertdrover** · 09-20-2019, 07:50 AM

Another way is to get yourself an 8-Pin Plug Circuit Board, like picture below, and wire/solder your own leads.

**k9wrangler** · 09-20-2019, 04:58 PM

quote:

Originally posted by desertdrover

Another way is to get yourself an 8-Pin Plug Circuit Board, like picture below, and wire/solder your own leads.

Get two or three, unless you’re a much better at soldering than I you’ll totally fowl up the first one, or two.[:-hot]

**desertdrover** · 09-21-2019, 04:16 AM

quote:

Originally posted by k9wrangler

quote:

Get two or three, unless you’re a much better at soldering than I you’ll totally fowl up the first one, or two.[:-hot]

Come on now Karl, you've got to give yourself a little more credit than making two mistakes.

I've got to admit, soldering in not my forte either. :erm:

**pmmcgraw** · 09-24-2019, 08:05 PM

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. It's obvious I'm going to have to tackle the job of removing the shell from the chassis to see what's actually there before I can actually try any of them. I hope one of the early contributions to this thread will help with this first hurdle.

It's comforting to find out that I'm not the only model railroader who lacks confidence in his soldering ability. I've soldered track together, but have great trepidation about tackling things as tiny and delicate as the wires that lead between a decoder and its connection to a motor or a socket. If that turns out to be my only option, I think I'll wind up paying someone who's an expert (and who has better eyesight) to do it for me.

Peter

**desertdrover** · 09-25-2019, 04:45 AM

quote:

Originally posted by pmmcgraw

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. It's obvious I'm going to have to tackle the job of removing the shell from the chassis to see what's actually there before I can actually try any of them. I hope one of the early contributions to this thread will help with this first hurdle.

It's comforting to find out that I'm not the only model railroader who lacks confidence in his soldering ability. I've soldered track together, but have great trepidation about tackling things as tiny and delicate as the wires that lead between a decoder and its connection to a motor or a socket. If that turns out to be my only option, I think I'll wind up paying someone who's an expert (and who has better eyesight) to do it for me.

Peter

Peter, when it comes to removing the body shell on a Bachmann Spectrum Doodlebug, while not the easiest shell to remove, the engineering makes sense and is very secure. Using a locomotive cradle, or homemade cradle, to hold your doodlebug will help with shell removal and keep from breaking off bits and pieces from your equipment.

Starting at the rear, insert a small screwdriver, or hobby knife blade, between the body and the undercarriage, then place a toothpick in the gap. The window glazing is part of the body, it in fact, has the points that the undercarriage clips to so handle accordingly. Do this 3 to 4 times down the side then repeat it down the other side.

Turn the doodlebug over and the mechanism/chassis will fall out into your hands. That's all there is to it. When replacing the shell it is easy, just lower it back onto the frame evenly and it'll snap into place. I hope this is helpful.

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