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  • Geezer
    replied
    Thanks Art, Dave & Larry - you guys are the best with all the support -

    I uploaded another "One of Geezer's Crappy Videos" to youtube - just

    a short video on the bench track.

    http://youtu.be/-_L2aGkgA6g

    Nothing special.....

    Comments always welcome.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigLars
    replied
    Good looking conversion Bill.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave_D
    replied
    She looks great Bill!

    quote:


    Originally posted by Geezer

    it acts just like a Forney (ass end swings waaaaayyyy out).



    Thanks for pointing that out, that's something I never considered.

    Great job on dis by you.

    An inspiration to all da youts out dare.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Andy - thanks for looking in - always a treat to hear from across the pond mate.

    Yeah,, I thought about the hose reel too....we shall see - I will most deff junk up the front end.....

    Leave a comment:


  • CieloVistaRy
    replied
    Great job, Geezer! You got to the end despite the notoriously poor quality of the instructions. I never got anywhere with mine and got rid of it on ebay. I suspect yours will fetch a premium price.

    Leave a comment:


  • andykins
    replied
    I've always liked the look of these, but yeah, every time i see someone build one i think "nah" haha. very good work Bill!

    My vote for the front? How about a hose wheel?

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I found my box of Bachmann parts...

    That's where the new stack came from.

    Thanks Les, I have a long way to go yet....but confidence is building and

    I am getting closer....;-)

    Leave a comment:


  • visman48
    replied
    Geez,

    Cool...I like the look, but a heavy tool box up front would be my choice, I am afraid you have more patience than me...guess that's why I haven't built one.

    Les

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Mucho headway today!

    I got the sound parts I was waiting for, (3/4" speaker & sound baffle) and installed that setup in the boiler. That part was NOT MUCH FUN!

    The boiler is in two pieces and in order to place the speaker forward of the connecting pin for the frame, you need to take the bottom part of t he boiler off and put the speaker/baffle there under the stack.

    The whole time, you have to keep the front light wires passed through two holes to the front of the boiler. Anyway, it is done, and I am siting here listening to the oilers and pop vales making noises. It came much better than the last time I tried this build.



    As I mentioned before, I am not going to shorten the front pilot but will add something to bulk up the front of the engine. I still have to deal with the lights and details.....

    Overall, I am a happy camper this afternoon & deserve a sip!!!

    Comments always welcome, thanks for the support.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Les -

    The scenery for MRR is the most difficult part of the hobby

    for me. What I have done so far is suitable to me, and I don't wish

    to destroy it for the sake of one engine.

    The back of the bunker can be affixed either way -

    Glued (There is a slot provided in the new bunker for this)

    or it can be attached with a single screw passing through the new

    floor which is resin.

    The last time I did this, I went with the screw and it broke at least

    3 times. This time, I used gorilla glue and made things permanent.

    If you need to service the decoder or lights, all can be accessed

    by removing the cab.

    At this time,I would like to fish for some input.

    Facts: The 2-8-0 Cab is held to the boiler with a screw from inside the boiler.

    The boiler is held to the frame with a screw in front, and the two "hooks" on the rear underside of the cab.

    What if: One wanted to be able to lift the cab off and not have to remove the boiler as well?

    There is a small amount of room in the forward cab floor that one could drill a couple holes

    where you could glue/epoxy a couple blocks in the cab to receive the screws....Yes/No?

    I am afraid if I leave the cab loose, I may pick the loco up and send it smashing to the floor.

    BTW - the 750 decoder I found had no packaging, but it is steam, and has one of the best whistles I have heard.

    Comments always welcome......

    Leave a comment:


  • visman48
    replied
    Geez,

    Thanks for the updates, Glad the 750 works. I guess I didn't know it swung out so much, I know the front end does, as I had to widen out some areas on the main part of the RR. I did it like the prototypes, got out the pick, and hammer...then a bit of explosives....now everything gets tested forward and backward through any new track work.

    How does the back of the cab (resin part) fit in to the OEM Bachmann cab? do you just glue it in? or?

    Les

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Wellllll......

    I put the chassis on the loop for a test run....runs fine(no sound yet)....But it will likely end up for sale, as it

    acts just like a Forney (ass end swings waaaaayyyy out). Unfortunately

    there are two places that are scenic with rocks and trees on the curve

    and I don't want to tear them out.

    TIFN - more to follow when speakers arrive.

    Comments welcome.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    No vampires here Ray....LOL! Just a bear or two occasionally....

    Just a bit of progress:





    Managed to get some handrails on, and repair the nasty "ouch!". The hand rail stanchions are

    a real PITA!!!

    The build calls for "Shortening" the pilot platform, I did that last time, and remember

    the outcome - had to bond a filler under the

    new platform and it was still sorta flimsy.

    I do not think I will go that route this time, maybe a big tool box or something like that.



    I have the tsunami 750 installed and working, and will try to mount the speaker in the boiler,

    I wired an 8 pin plug to it using a trick from Les (visman48) - stick the plug in a piece of cork so the pins don't move when you solder them up. Thanks Les!

    Small issue is that the wires for the front light run through the boiler as well. Will take that hurdle when I get to it.

    Next up is getting the bunker attached to the frame & the work on the doors for the cab.

    Not much progress today, but better slow than none at all.

    Comments always welcome.....

    Leave a comment:


  • Ray Dunakin
    replied
    quote:


    Originally posted by Geezer


    I love garlic bread, fresh garlic and even garlic powder.


    Well, that explains why you've never been attacked by vampires!

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Here's the "other" direction to move on the ash pan if you want the 2-8-2T version:

    remove the OEM ash pan cover and glue (I used gorilla glue) in the two wood blocks provided with the kit that will accept two screws to secure the new cover.



    The new cover is a pretty straight forward install, just mark where the screws will go, drill the clearance holes and install the cover like this:



    Make sure that you install the cover as pictured or your trailing truck will be under the next car in tow....

    That being accomplished, I turned my attention to the install of the main PC board in the cab.

    The PC board will be affixed using 1 screw of your choice.

    You will have to "Hog" out a space for the diodes that are located on the back of the main PC board. (D1 D2 D3)



    You will have to be careful hee that you don't go all the way through. I just grind a bit & test...grind a bit & test...etc...

    The hole for the screw is in this depression so you need to be twice as careful there.

    At this point, all the rest of the resin parts are in the paint shop - I guess that means to get an 8 pin plug on the tsunami...Stay tuned...this is more funner than last time....

    comments welcome.

    Leave a comment:

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