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**visman48** · 07-16-2015, 05:28 AM

Geez,

Good luck tracing down the wiring... it necessary though. You going to add some sort of stay alive in this project? Without the tender for extra pickup and to cover dirty areas it going to need it.

I will be interested to know if the 750 survives this loco...it should. Suggest you wire it up with a cheapo Bachman non sound decoder first to make sure it all doesn't go poof, then rewire when you got it all down pat.

What are your other plans for the loco?

Les

**Geezer** · 07-16-2015, 09:52 AM

Dave - yes! I love garlic bread, fresh garlic and even garlic powder.

Les - "Plans for this Loco" - After a failure with converting the last 2-8-0,

I installed the conversion kit on the Mogul 2-6-0 and let it go on ebay.

If I am successful with this attempt, then It might follow the other one

on EBay as well. I am doing this build, just to see if I can make it work.

I didn't have any trouble with the 2-6-0 stalling on the frogs, besides that,

I am running frog juicers from F/T,

I will keep you guys posted.

I'll be back.

**Geezer** · 07-16-2015, 11:43 AM

Let'see -

hole ground for wires through ash pan -check

all wires traced out both ckt boards - check

affix ckt board to back of bunker - after I fix a couple cracks in the top section and add a brace under the windows -

You can see the cracks in the picture - small setback waiting for things to dry.....

I have shortened the boiler -

and will shorten the pilot by about 6mm a

Paint over grinding marks -

More to follow....

**BigLars** · 07-16-2015, 01:10 PM

Following along Bill, my converted loco is sitting in the box due to issues with electrical pick up. I will be watching to see where you go with this.

**sn3forme** · 07-16-2015, 02:58 PM

The resin bunker I used developed

cracks in the same area, but I

believe it was because I was

constantly fitting and refitting

the bunker for fit. I used some

bracing and acc, you can't see the

cracks anymore.

Looks like you almost got er done!

Carl

Pasco, Wa.

**visman48** · 07-16-2015, 03:02 PM

Geez,

I suspect there is enough contacts to make it run, the loco probably needs some balance and it certainly weights enough. I would still do the stay alive, one of the Soundtrax ones or TSC ones.

Les

**Geezer** · 07-17-2015, 02:04 AM

Plugging along, I managed to get the exit (for the wires) from the back of the ash pan cut out without too much trouble. (read: pain in the butt)

I started by drilling two holes where the directions indicate, and then "hogged" out the material in between the holes. This leaves enough room for the larger connector from the large PC board to pass through, followed by the smaller connector.

Hint: pass the larger connector through first or you wont have room for the larger one to pass through. (if you haven't made the hole so big that you can park your car there

)

You should end up with something like this (above). I added small square of double sided tape under the PC board to prevent any shorts

with the frame.

Job completed.

I think that this way of keeping the connections is/would be a lot easier than going the

hard wire route. It is a matter of choice and can be completed either way.

That's it for this morning, onward to painting the rest of the components, shortening the pilot deck and of course shortening all those wires!!!

I'll be back, comments always welcome.

**Dave_D** · 07-17-2015, 03:31 AM

Very nice Bill!

**Rick** · 07-17-2015, 03:53 AM

Go Geezer Go!

**Frank_Palmer** · 07-17-2015, 04:18 AM

I see you managed to work your self out of a fine mess. :up:

**TRAINS1941** · 07-17-2015, 04:24 AM

Nice job Geezer.

**Geezer** · 07-17-2015, 04:43 AM

Thanks for the support guys -

Please keep in mind that the above information on the

use of the original as pan will only allow you to

have a 2 - 8 - 0T. In order for you to end up with the

2-8-2T you must do the following:

Pictures & instructions soon!

Thanks for the comments -

comments welcome as always -

**Geezer** · 07-17-2015, 06:07 AM

Here's the "other" direction to move on the ash pan if you want the 2-8-2T version:

remove the OEM ash pan cover and glue (I used gorilla glue) in the two wood blocks provided with the kit that will accept two screws to secure the new cover.

The new cover is a pretty straight forward install, just mark where the screws will go, drill the clearance holes and install the cover like this:

Make sure that you install the cover as pictured or your trailing truck will be under the next car in tow....

That being accomplished, I turned my attention to the install of the main PC board in the cab.

The PC board will be affixed using 1 screw of your choice.

You will have to "Hog" out a space for the diodes that are located on the back of the main PC board. (D1 D2 D3)

You will have to be careful hee that you don't go all the way through. I just grind a bit & test...grind a bit & test...etc...

The hole for the screw is in this depression so you need to be twice as careful there.

At this point, all the rest of the resin parts are in the paint shop - I guess that means to get an 8 pin plug on the tsunami...Stay tuned...this is more funner than last time....

comments welcome.

**Ray Dunakin** · 07-17-2015, 08:51 PM

quote:

Originally posted by Geezer

I love garlic bread, fresh garlic and even garlic powder.

Well, that explains why you've never been attacked by vampires!

**Geezer** · 07-19-2015, 05:55 PM

No vampires here Ray....LOL! Just a bear or two occasionally....

Just a bit of progress:

Managed to get some handrails on, and repair the nasty "ouch!". The hand rail stanchions are

a real PITA!!!

The build calls for "Shortening" the pilot platform, I did that last time, and remember

the outcome - had to bond a filler under the

new platform and it was still sorta flimsy.

I do not think I will go that route this time, maybe a big tool box or something like that.

I have the tsunami 750 installed and working, and will try to mount the speaker in the boiler,

I wired an 8 pin plug to it using a trick from Les (visman48) - stick the plug in a piece of cork so the pins don't move when you solder them up. Thanks Les!

Small issue is that the wires for the front light run through the boiler as well. Will take that hurdle when I get to it.

Next up is getting the bunker attached to the frame & the work on the doors for the cab.

Not much progress today, but better slow than none at all.

Comments always welcome.....

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