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  • #1

    Painting Little People

    Didn't really know which forum to ask this question in so I threw darts at the screen and they stuck here.

    Since I'm going to need a gazillion LP's for my layout, and don't really want to buy them a few at a time at 10 - 15 dollars a package, I figured I would buy some of the unpainted variety. Now I could have a layout populated by mutant LP's but that would get boring. Anyway, 30+ years ago I was into Civil War miniatures and my recollection is they were close to HO in scale so the painting part I guess I can handle. Even with my failing eyes and unsteady hand from the passage of years. What I don't remember is what kinds of paint would be best to use. So that's my question - what brand and colors would those of you have painted a bunch of LP's suggest? Also, would 000 brushes be small enough or should I go smaller?

    Thanks,

    Dave :erm:
    "there\'s something happening here, what it is ain\'t exactly clear"
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Dave,

    I found this earlier this morning, link to painting LP's

    http://www.outbackmodels.com/Clinics...s/figures.html

    and this one in the Classroom section of the forums

    http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...TOPIC_ID=20638

    Steve T.

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    • #3
      Dave,

      I primarily use PolyScale paints on my LP.
      Bruce

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      • #4
        Dave,Here's what I would use in the past and will use again since I hate painting wee folk.


        http://woodlandscenics.woodlandsceni...SAEconomyPacks

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        • #5
          Also check out this website; Part #1; http://www.gaugemaster.com/patpaint.html and Part #2; http://www.gaugemaster.com/patpaint2.html


          Louis L&R Western Railroad
          Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

          Comment

          • #6
            I use polly scale acrylics because they mix well and dry to a matt finish.

            I had a look at my brushes and I do most of my figure painting with 0 and 00 brushes. I don't like smaller brushes because they don't hold as much paint as a bigger one meaning that you have to keep stopping painting a shirt or trousers or whatever to get more paint, resulting in (in my opinion) a splotchier, less consistent colour on the model. Decent quality brushes that hold a goof point are what you are looking for.

            I do use a 000 brush for painting belts and hairlines around hats and the like but the majority is with the 00 brush

            Personally I think it is very easy to get better colouring and more detailed painting than on the pre-painted sets. If your eyes are feeling a bit strained get a magnifier that you can use hands free
            Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52273

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            • #7
              I was looking over the links posted on the thread and one thing really jumped out at me: for most realism don't apply the paint too thickly. I think it just makes to figures look like mannequins and masks much of the lovely detail cast in to the figures.

              http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/asp-...lcolortecnicas is mainly regarding bigger scales but in very informative about washes and painting highlights. It shows partly what i mean
              Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52273

              Comment

              • #8
                The Vallejo paint is very good, too. I've used Humbrol (cute little tiny tins) flesh for many years. Michigan Toy (http://www.michtoy.com) is one good source for figure painting supplies. No financial connection, just a satisfied customer.

                dave
                Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

                Comment

                • #9
                  I know that Dave Revelia is now using Vallejo paints, and a recent review by Bob Brown in the Gazette has him now using the Vellejo paints. Bob even made the comment in the review that his figure painting improved by using the paints. They are acrylic paints, come in a dropper bottle and cover as well as the old Folquil paints. After using Polly-S for some time and Folquil mainly for over 20 years, I have been changing to the Vellejo line, and have totally stopped using my Polly-S paints. Earlier today I placed an order for a bunch of colors with Colorado Miniatures to round out my Vallejo color line. I have even started using the Vallejo paints where I was using craft paint like CreamCoat or Apple Barrel. I also think that Elliott has been using the Vellejo paints to paint the LP's he is using on his dioramas. An added bonus is that the military and figure painting guys appear to be moving to the Vallejo line as it has an color tint system for painting light and dark hues of the base color. Vallejo calls these 'transparent' colors, and are used for highlighting or shadow effects in figure painting from what I've read.
                  -- KP --

                  Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

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                  • #10
                    Dave,

                    Here are a couple of additional places to look for hints and tips:

                    Dr. Brian Fayle, of the Toronto area, has a technique that results in a fast painting process with results that look good on layout LPs. http://www.brifayle.ca/

                    Forum member Scott Mason has a DVD available showing Forum member Dave Revelia demonstrating his techniques. http://scottymason.com/

                    Thin, absolutely flat paints carefully applied will give you a result you'll like.

                    And for the record, I have no business relationship with anyone I've mentioned, other than that of a satisfied consumer.

                    Pete

                    in Michigan

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                    • #11
                      The #1 rule is everything must be DEAD FLAT. In fact, an old miniatures painting trick is to add a bit of talcum powder to enamels (never tried this with acrylics) to make them even more flat. Even shiny stuff (e.g. leather) should be almost-flat. If you look at photos of LPs, you'll see how any shine totally ruins it.

                      dave
                      Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

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                      • #12
                        quote:

                        Originally posted by mainetrains

                        ...would 000 brushes be small enough or should I go smaller?

                        Tiny brushes are not the answer.

                        Get yourself a top-quality round Kolinsky sable watercolor brush that will hold a needle-sharp point. Try a Winsor Newton Series 7 #1 or an Isaby Series 6227Z #1 or 2.

                        They are expensive, but well worth the money.

                        -Dave
                        -Dave

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for all the great advice, tips, links, etc. Once I get rolling on creating multitudes of LP's I'll be sure to post some pics.

                          Dave :erm:
                          "there\'s something happening here, what it is ain\'t exactly clear"

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            I'd never go under a size 1, since they hold much more color. For years now I've used some dirt cheap german brushes, DaVinci Junior, for most of my detail work, also in my professional work as a painter. I throw them out as soon as they lose the point, but they are actually superior to kolinski stuff even for fine watercolor work, and for a couple of dollars very good value indeed. I have kolinskis worth a fortune gathering dust...
                            Troels Kirk

                            Näsum, Sweden

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                            • #15
                              Great comments above. For varying colours I put dabs of colour on a margarine tub lid (use it as a palet)and then mix and matchcolours to what I want. To pass the time away I sit and watch TV at the same time. Flip up the optivisor when something is interesting on TV. Have fun!
                              Chuck Faist

                              Burlington, Ontario

                              Enjoy yourself it is later than you think!

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