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  • #46
    quote:

    Originally posted by hunter48820

    Hi All,

    The paint brush info brings up a question that I have regarding the care of the brushes. How do you clean them (what do you use and how do you physically clean them) and do you use anything to keep their shape after cleaning.

    Andy-

    You can clean your brushes with a bar of soap, but the best brush cleaner is The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver. Most art supply houses (and even Amazon) carry it. A 2 1/2 oz. tub will last you a lifetime.
    After rinsing your brush in solvent, wet it with water and smoosh it around on the cake of brush cleaner, creating a lather. Then gently rub the brush against the palm of your hand until it's clean. Then rinse with water. (No need for extra conditioner.)

    The very best way to re-point a round brush is to use your lips. (No kidding!)

    -Dave
    -Dave

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    • #47
      Must have been where Bob got his cutting tongue.
      Chris Lyon

      http://www.lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com

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      • #48
        Thanks All,

        Some great info. I've always just cleaned them in plain water (for water based paints, of course!) or thinner. Dave, I have used the lips in the past, so maybe I'm a natural!!
        Look out for #1, but don\'t step in #2!



        Andy Keeney

        Dewitt, MI

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        • #49
          Moving away from brushes for the moment, here is a tip for using your Chopper or equivalent.

          Every time I cut a piece of wood or styrene to a particular length I need, I make a 'spacer' for future use. (Simply label it and save it.) It saves a lot of effort the next time you need a 6', 4', or even 3'9" length.


          Bruce

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          • #50
            Great tips so far everyone.

            When planking a loading dock or wharf or any other decked surface where you want the boards to have a worn, aged and damaged end, rather than cut the boards to length and then distress the ends I find it easier/quicker to just simply snap the boards to length in my fingers.

            This gives a naturally 'broken' end and also a slight variation in board length. Any oversized splinters can easily be removed before placement.



            Karl.A

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            • #51
              quote:

              Originally posted by Dutchman

              Moving away from brushes for the moment, here is a tip for using your Chopper or equivalent.

              Every time I cut a piece of wood or styrene to a particular length I need, I make a 'spacer' for future use. (Simply label it and save it.) It saves a lot of effort the next time you need a 6', 4', or even 3'9" length.



              Bruce,

              I do the same thing with angles. If I have a piece that requires an odd angle in the Chopper, I cut a guide similar to the ones provided with the Chopper. I label it and save it.

              Chuck

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              • #52
                Rolling Xacto blades- go to the office supply area of your local store and get a package of add on pencil erasers. The ones that have a square base lip around them. Cut the tips off and put them on your Xacto knives.

                Uncoupling tools for Kadee type knuckle couplers. Go to your local McDonalds and get the latest coffee stirrers. They are plastic and have a flat rectangular blade. You can cut them down and it makes a cheap uncoupling tool.

                CA adhesive- Use a plastic cap from a 35mm film canister and put a drop of CA in there as you use it. When it dries just flex the cap and it will come right off. Tooth picks are good applicators.

                Wooden coffee stirrers are making a come-back. Great planks of wood for scratch building.

                Soda straws- You can get them in different sizes from different restaurants. These make good pipe loads. Paint them and cut them up.

                Another uncoupling tool. This may sound weird but the skewer Red Lobster uses for their shrimp special make great uncoupling tools. Put them through the dish washer first though. I think you might be able to find them at Sams Club to.

                A plain piece of 1.5' x 10" left over ply wood works great as a portable tool carrier. I put all my track tools and items I need for track work on this and carry it to the place I'm working on. You'll always know where your tools are.
                Bill Shanaman

                New Haven RR

                Hartford Division

                in Colorado.

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                • #53
                  For those of us who build everything board by board I have a great timesaving tip.

                  When I buy a bundle of 2 by 4 stripwood, I stain the whole bundle and then glue the whole bundle together using a very water mix of Elmer's glue and water.

                  The 2 by 4s when glued this way into a block of wood can be cut easily by a small table saw into the correct lengths for studs and fireblocks.

                  After the wood block has been cut, simply toss it into a bowl of water overnight and in the morning you will have a bowl filled with individual 2 by 4 studs.

                  Rinse them off and let them dry and you will never have the problem of your studs in your walls being slightly different in length.

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                  • #54
                    Bruce

                    Terrific tip. Now why didn't I think of that?

                    Peter

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                    • #55
                      When I do a build with wood, I tend to use single edge razor blades more than a modeling knife. When a blade starts to dull, especially if I'm going to cut paper for roofing, I open a new blade. By the end of a build I might have 3 or 4 blades laying on the bench. That's why I take a few extra seconds to slap on a piece of masking tape with the date I opened the new blade. Then I always know which is the freshest and which is the dullest blade on the bench. (Well, Bonnie would point out that I'm probably always the dullest one around.)


                      Bruce

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                      • #56
                        Bruce

                        Good idea. I also use a lot of single edge razor blades and will be putting your tip to good use.

                        Peter

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                        • #57
                          I like that idea Bruce and will be putting it to use soon. Good ideas all around, and I need all the tips I can get.

                          One thing I do when building a kit is photo copy the instructions and any templates on my printer. The instructions are printed on regular paper and the templates are printed on a thin white cardboard. The originals I punch holes in and put them in a loose leaf notebook. If the copies get messed up for some reason you can print more. I always manage to spill something on them. :erm:
                          Scott, from the wilds of Carroll County, Ohio

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                          • #58
                            Bruce, have you tried using a permanent marker right on the blade? Pat

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