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  • John,

    recipe.... hmmmm..... well .... therein lies the difficulty

    I 'think' I started with 3 teaspoons of black ink in a pint of alcohol, but that was a year or so ago..... when that started getting depleted I added some alcohol to top up the jar and squirted in some ink, probably 8 or 9 of the little squirter things that came in the bottle. Since then I have found half bottles of A&I (no idea of the mix) from some time ago and just added these in as a top up was needed, if it didnt colour quick enough I'd just add more ink to speed things up (have I ever mentioned I'm impatient), if things came out too dark I would just take the next batch of wood out sooner.

    Generally I guage my mixture by the time it takes to stain balsa or bass, I try to get a good colour after a 5-15 minute soak, if it takes longer than 30 mins to colour balsa I add more ink to the jar and try again until it works 'right'.

    The balsa/bass needs to be thoroughly dry before the grey tone appears. Even with a strong mix it can take up to an hour or two to stain the birch ply, I have left birch shingles in the jar over night on occasion. I usually also take out about half or a third of the pieces at a time and spread them out to dry, that way by the time you go to get the rest out they have had a chance to soak a little longer which gives more colour/tonal variation.

    When starting a build such as this I cut one dimension of wood and throw it in the jar, while it is soaking I will cut another dimension, then remove the first batch from the stain in 2 or 3 lots as noted above, throw in the second batch of wood into the stain and either cut some more or make some windows, then when I realise its been about 10 mins I take the next lot out to dry.

    I like the variation I get from not having a specific method or time, I certainly dont have a timer beep when the wood is 'ready' , very random with a controlled basic, ie the stain. This makes it easier (for me) to replicate the colouring for some extra pieces if needed.

    Start with the 3 teaspoons in a pint and go from there, they will come out brown but turn greyer as they dry, make sure they are totally dry before evaluating the colour and adjusting your soak time or mixture if you think necessary.

    I hope this rambling narrative helps, if not just ask again, or, someone else who knows what they are doing....

    Karl.A

    Comment


    • John,

      an example would be the pully support pictured below.

      The vertical posts and framework of the support were built and stained last year, where as the roof ridge beam which now extends out of the siding that will hold the pully wheel and sits on the support frame was made and stained last week, matches pretty well to my eye.



      Karl.A

      Comment


      • Now, if I can't make a half reasonable effort at scratch building from what I've learned by watching and from what you've told me, I'll find a cross stitch forum to pester.

        Thanks
        John Kerekes

        Graduate, summa cum laude

        Armchair Model Railroad Institute

        Comment


        • Ask away whenever John, there are plenty of great modellers here in the forum more than able and always willing to help someone out when they need it. (voice of experience).

          Karl.A

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          • For those who are interested, The dilution of india ink to rubbing alcohol which I have found usefull:

            1 teaspoon ink to one pint alcohol = light stain

            2 teaspoons ink to one pint alcohol = med. stain

            3 teaspoons ink to one pint alcohol = dark stain

            This mix ratio was posted by SMASON2 here on the forum. I use Higgins Black India Ink (non water-proof) and 91% alcohol, but it looks like Karl is using Dr. Ph. Martins Bombay india ink.
            -- KP --

            Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

            Comment


            • Karl, great build and wonderful thread. Please keep it coming as the information is outstanding. Can you confirm the scale, HO or O? I'm thinking it's "0" scale. Thanks in advance.
              -- KP --

              Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

              Comment


              • Karl,

                A true masterpiece!

                philip
                Philip

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                • It is O scale for sure.

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                  • Your staining recipe seems to be quite consistent, Karl.

                    Mine is more random. I keep adding black india ink to alcohol (or water) until the stain looks dark enough (but not too much) on some test boards.

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                    • That is a great tutorial on staining Karl, Thank you. Looking forward to your next update.

                      Mark
                      W,L,&E

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                      • I put together a pdf article on staining stripwood with a variety of ink blends to yield a variety of tones/colors. The article goes over the basic and best known 'recipes' for ink stains, and then lists 9 additional concoctions that I came up with. If anyone is interested, it's a free download here:

                        http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/filelibrary.asp

                        Don't let the "Mac" designation stop you. The file is a pdf and will open normally in a Windows/PC environment.

                        Comment


                        • quote:


                          Originally posted by Frederic Testard



                          Mine is more random. I keep adding black india ink to alcohol (or water) until the stain looks dark enough (but not too much) on some test boards.


                          That is my EXACT 'recipe' Frederic....

                          Karl.A

                          Comment


                          • And there you go John, three responses from three outstanding modellers relating to stain formulas, gotta love this place, and the guys who make it what it is.

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                            • quote:


                              Originally posted by hon3_rr


                              Can you confirm the scale, HO or O?



                              Simon is correct, it is 'O'scale Kris.

                              Thanks for the kind responses,

                              Karl.A

                              Comment


                              • Really enjoying your progress Karl, thanks for sharing the build.

                                I like the roof ridge beam at that length, if it muchfarther out you might have to have a support to pull a big heavy engine

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