I've installed the first Tortoise switch motor and it works fine. One suggestion for members who are using thick foam on board...instead of simply drilling a hole for the throw wire, drill two to form a slot. This will compensate for the longer throw motion of the wire further down from the surface. That's what I had to do to in order to get my motor to work smoothly. I also hooked up the control toggle and indicator LED showing red for siding and 'green' for main clear. It's supposed to be a red/green LED but it looks kinda yellow. That's okay as long as the next one that I get is the same. Now to get more Tortoises! By the way, if you look at the label, 'freight station', you'll see a bit of a lump under the label. That's where I cracked the plexi while enlarging the hole for the LED holder.

Hey Russ,

Sounds like you're making some good progress on the layout. Too bad about the Plexi, but it sounds like you've got a good fix in place. Now that you (ooops, your wife!!) has a new camera, you need to post some more photos!

I installed one of the Miniatronics mini toggle switches and LED holder into the panel to hook up to my 'test' Tortoise motor bought used on eBay. While drilling out the hole for the LED holder, I made the hole too small. When drilling it out to the proper diameter, the bit hung up on the plexi and cracked it in three places. [!] The cracks aren't long, but two are noticeable while the third is a fine hairline. I don't want to have to scrap the plexi and start all over again, so I covered the worst cracks with identification labels. It doesn't look too bad, either.

I looked at a coupe of S scale switch stands to hook up to my single completed turnout and had to make a decision. The NJ International low Ramapo operating switch stand has a lighted lantern on top and is 19.95 with shipping:

http://www.njinternational.com/s_scale_accessories.htm

The Railway Engineering operating switch stand is the older type typical of short lines and narrow gauge railroads with no lantern but the typical large target. It's two dollar less than the NJ International, but can also be used to actually throw the turnout, too, if desired.

http://www.railwayeng.com/handstnd.htm

I decided on the Railway Engineering 'Hand Stand' with a diamond target because it is not only typical of narrow gauge equipment, but looks durable and easy to install. Having all Railway Engineering turnouts, I'm also very satisfied with the quality, too. Photos to follow...stay tuned!

Hey Russ,

Great looking control panel for sure! That black plexi really makes the unit look professionaly made, and the taping is first-class.

Good looking panel Russ! Frederic the hardware stores here carry it and will cut it to size for you. You can buy it by the square foot.

Thank you, Russ. Visiting this site lead me to search something in Europe, and I think I've found an interesting German provider. I am very impressed by the variety of plexiglass based products available.

Hello, Frederic...

This is 3/16" thick opaque gloss black plexi. The piece is 'saw cut' but the edges and ends are very clean and can be left exposed. This piece was about 30.00 USD with delivery. Here's the link:

http://www.estreetplastics.com/

I think I'll install a myriad of mini-panels on my renewed Sn3 layout. Same goal : to be close from what you operate when you operate.

Where do you find these black plexiglass boards in the US?

That's a good looking control panel, Russ.

I finally was able to get enough materials together to start on the control panel. It's 8" X 32" made of black plexi mounted on a piano hinge attached to the bottom of a wood frame. The panel front drops down so that I can access all of the wiring. I have some more white striping tape to add for the turntable and enginehouse. I also have to add a cut out on the panel to mount the plug in for my DCC cab. From here I'll be able to add the toggle switches and colored LEDs to control the turnout motors, power switches for track where needed,etc.

The wiring is just plain ol' red 'n black power wires coming down from each section of track and hooked up onto a terminal strip. All of the turnouts are going to be powered, so I have a wire for each frog to connect to the turnout motors to switch polarity when thrown. I don't want to go too much further before putting 12v to it and check for continuity on all of the track sections.

Looking good, Russ!

Chuck

Great way to wire Russ!

Great progress Russ! I just read through your

whole thread. Nice trackwork & I like the

"Flip-top-box" idea.....shudda thought of that

before I started.

Anyway, looking forward to more progress....

Bill

Thanks, Guys...

I'm going to shift over to the building of a base here soon. Mark (MAP) from here on RR-Line and I are going to come up with a design for a base so I can ditch the sawhorses. Regular legs on a narrow shelf layout doesn't protect it from accidentally falling over because the support base is too narrow. Ummmm....can't have that. [:-dunce] I also have to get Tortoise motors, too, but that'll require financing along with my additional track supply list. Spending right now when I'm facing a layoff in 6 weeks would not be a smart move if I want to avoid the flying frying pan from my wife. [:-fight] What I can do is hook up as much wiring as possible, temporarily hook up the DCC power, and check the track for power to all of the sections. Another inexpensive thing I can do is build a control panel. We'll see...stay tuned!

Russ