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  • #16
    ..........
    Dave Mason
    On30Kits.com

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    • #17
      I just ordered some homasote roadbed from the Homabed company Dave just noted and provided a link to. Although I model in HOn3, I had my order in hand within two weeks of placing it. It may cost a touch more than having to cut your own, but it is well worth it to get aorund the mess which cutting homosote creates, IMO.
      -- KP --

      Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

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      • #18
        Tom

        I would agree with KP on the Homabed, no cutting, its bendable, it holds spikes well, and you can glue down those wood ties. Also added benefit is sound...it really does make a difference in sound. I use yellow glue and lightly tack the homabed down one side first then opposite side, staggering joints. You can also buy turnout pieces too.

        Les

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        • #19
          Okey - I checked the homabed site & prices arent really that bad.

          Just a little over a buck a foot......

          My question is, which way to go: 60 or 45 degrees...or straight sides..... .240 thickness

          I would go the 60 degrees, but then the turnouts are @ 45 degree bevel. I may just

          use cork for the yards & branch stuff.....direction please.....

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          • #20
            Geezer:

            Make sure you get a width wide enough for the ties.
            Tom M.

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            • #21
              Thats where I fell off last time Tom....Not sure weather to use HO gauge or O gauge....

              I will wait to see what the other users offer....

              Thanks again for the help on the wiring diagram.

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              • #22
                I am staying with cork .....

                My original question was what thickness of plywood do you use for subroadbed ..... [:-bigeyes2]
                Tom M.

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                • #23
                  Tom - 3/8 ply is my plan....I think that will hold a train that is less that a pound

                  over a span of 16 inches......

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                  • #24
                    Tom,

                    did some testing today, 2 pieces of 1/8" foam glued on a bit of ply, hand cut into strips and a handcut 45 deg. bevel (abt:-)

                    The foam is a dream to work with, sturdy yet easy to cut, simply sprayed a generic glue on the ply and foam and glued the track in place.

                    Aquarium ballast is just loose for the pics, but it was a rewarding job to work it in the track.

                    I painted a wee bit of 'patina' on the rails, almost instant blackening !

                    The bottle was marked 'black', will check if other hues are available.

                    The foam will take almost all slow glues, Loctite burns a hole in it.









                    Will do a similar setup with a single layer of 1/8" foam.

                    cheers, Leo.

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                    • #25
                      Did you check the conductivity after you tinted the rails?
                      -John

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                      • #26
                        Not yet John,

                        I've also no idea whatsoever about it's effect in the long run,

                        both in corroding (must be some kind of acid based chemical ?) the rail and the colouring.

                        cheers, Leo.

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                        • #27
                          Tom- back to your original question- I use 1/2", actually 7/16" chipboard (or waferboard, or whatever name you find it under at your building supply). With proper cleats like you stated, etc.- there is no problem with strength. I find chipboard is cheaper even than plywood, and since there is no grain to it at all, it's even easier to bend/flex if needed. Unless you have a real problem with humidity up there, 1/2 ply or chipboard is fine.

                          As for the roadbed discussion, I'm not sure which way I'll go. On my previous HO layout I used flextrack, and Walther's foam "Trackbed". I used Liquid Nails Foam Adhesive, which allowed me to salvage the track (and even some of the roadbed) when I changed. For the future On30 layout, I hope to handlay at least some of the track, which will require nailing- so I'll be looking at the other ideas mentioned here.
                          Mike

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