Troels...
I suspect it does...do you know what it was? as in Soundtrax or tsunami or ?? the Lok is real throaty, and has great slow speed sounds. Its one of the better decoders, and runs the loco well to. We forget how much difference that is when you put a good quality decoder in versus the OEM version. Also if you use speed table.
Les
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Thanks Les. BTW the sound I stole from a Bachmann HO Consolidation sounds really well too! I got it on ebay cheaper than the european made loksound would have been...
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Troels,
Usually you and me are painting locos along the same lines. While this one is not well used, its used and kept up well, not just out of the shop. Not only does it look good, but the LOK sound for it makes it really come off well. Your loco looks great, and when in context with your buildings and RR will look even better.
Les
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Looking very good, Les! Your gentle weathering really has the feel of a well cared for, but working locomotive. Makes my neglected, filthy, rusty american feel old and tired..
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Les, the coal load looks good. One thing I like about this group ask a question and you get a lot of workable solutions. I'll second the comment about Berkshire Valley they make great casting I plan to use a lot of there stuff on the layout.
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Thanks les ill add it to the list of detail parts i need. Its getting rather long now which gives me an excuse to buy some things and shorten the list.
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Adrian,
Thanks I appreciate the feedback. Oil can and most of these castings are Birkshire Valley stuff. I like them, little to clean up and they have good detail.
Les
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looks very nice as usual les. The oil can casting at the front left corner, who is that casting by?
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All,
Thanks for the suggestions, I had not thought about the black paint, however I did use scenic glue instead. The coal load already had a coat of grimy black so the glue would likely stick. The coal load is that little packet you get when you buy the loco. I do have some biggers stuff to break up, but the packet is surely enough.
Here is the results...
As you can see no issue with shiny-ness. BTW also added some of the Black weathering chalk lightly dusted on in some areas.
I will work do some chalk dust work on the tendor surface to blend it in..its still to clean, and add in a random lump or two.
Les
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I third the acrylic paint as glue method, I have used it many times, but I use the paint that comes in a tube (the thick stuff) not the thin kind you can spray. brush it on thich and add the coal, once it is dry you can add some diluted white glue or matte medium to bond it even further.
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Les, as Lars says I use black artists acrylics as glue... gives the fake coal a flat finish, and works fine as glue.
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I was thinking the white glue might be an issue sticking to the plastic. Troels also posted on his thread that he used black paint to bond the coal.quote:
Originally posted by Geezer
How about some flat paint and sprinkle dust on when wet?.....
Just a thought...I somehow tend to think that the glue will show
and maybe make it shiny.....
JMO
I still need to add coal to most of my equipment so I am interested in what ends up being the best answer.
So how are you all making the coal dust? The real stuff can be very bad for the lungs. I have been in the commercial insurance biz for some time and know the claims were costly.
LarryLeave a comment:
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How about some flat paint and sprinkle dust on when wet?.....
Just a thought...I somehow tend to think that the glue will show
and maybe make it shiny.....
JMO
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Les,
I've added coal to hoppers by putting on a thin layer of coal dust and then wetting it with isopropyl alcohol in a mister/atomizer (I like the 99% variety, hardly any water) and then add the usual 40/60 white glue/ water, then let dry. Should work on the tender coal load.
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