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  • Benchwork

    Benchwork:

    This sticky will be for discussions on how to construct your benchwork. This will be for all scales. Please feel free to post any construction methods that you have found satisfactory to you

    Thanks
    <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

  • #2
    The following was posted by Walt (Rusty Stumps) about the construction methods he is using. This is a very strong but lightweight system but does require the use of a table saw and a dado blade for your saw.

    Hey folks, the Fall Creek Lumber and Mining Railroad crew has been hard at work and the table framework is starting to come together real well.

    You can view a number of photos at: http://www.rustystumps.com/layoutconst.htm

    Hope you enjoy them.

    Walt

    Edit

    From Walt

    First, if you go to my website be sure to review all the photos on the layout construction. I've noticed a large number of people hitting the first page but the numbers drop off on subsequent pages and they hold a lot more information.

    Yes please make sure that you view all of the pages. There are 4 on framework construction and 1 more is a schematic drawing.
    <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

    Comment


    • #3
      The following is a page from a web site that I think was posted here at RRL but I am not sure who posted it. This web site explains with pictures the use of a hollow core door with metal studs and PVC legs. It is benchwork for N scale but could probably be modified for HO

      http://www.members.cox.net/metric8/Benchwork.htm
      <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

      Comment


      • #4
        John, I'll add a little here on my "I" beam constuction method. First, if you go to my website be sure to review all the photos on the layout construction. I've noticed a large number of people hitting the first page but the numbers drop off on subsequent pages and they hold a lot more information.

        If I were to start this project over today I would make some modifications. Instead of using the 1/2" plywood for the web, verticle piece, I would use 1/4" masonite. Understand that when a piece is trapped between the two rails it's strength is increased considerably. The two rails are mainly to keep the web (verticle) from twisting and also help keep it from sagging. As long as the web can be kept verticle and straight it will support a lot of weight. The 1/4" masonite is a lot lighter than the 1/2" plywood which is another contributing reason to use it.

        As you couldn't put screws into the edge of the masonite, nor is there sufficient surface to glue it, I would add a slotted tab piece of two pieces of 3/4" plywood glued up. With this style of constuction the "I" beams could be made to any length then just cut to fit. Then the tabs could be added for assembly.

        If anyone is seriously interested in this style of construction let me know and I'll make up a sample beam to demonstrate my point.

        Walt

        Comment


        • #5
          For those of you that may be interested in building modules this web page was posted by Railway Bob. It explains modular construction with pictures. Very informative. Click on next at the bottom of the first page to get to more pages of construction techniques.

          http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/Mo...odConstr01.htm
          <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here is another discussion http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...?TOPIC_ID=2813 using Pink or Blue foam.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi John. Thanx for the promo to my website. I've also got instructions for building legs using rigid ABS plastic pipe, how to build "carry-plates" to transport your modules, installing your LocoNet if you use DCC, and tips on installing decoders. In the works are instructions for making wooden legs for your modules which will be up in the next couple of weeks.

              Hope you all enjoy.

              Have fun. (I am!)
              Visit "Railways of Eastern Ontario" at

              http://www.railwaybob.com

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi

                Here is another web site with benchwork using a different technique.

                http://www.webreb.com/HiRail/benchwork.html
                <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Gentlemen: I urge you, in all instances, to use screws to assemble benchwork, instead of nails. It is much less traumatic to existing plaster and scenery to unscrew a board, and replace benchwork with screws, than to inflct pounding nails into existing work. Scale earthquakes have the same effect on models as real ones do on the prototype.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:


                    Originally posted by Wallace


                    Gentlemen: I urge you, in all instances, to use screws to assemble benchwork, instead of nails. It is much less traumatic to existing plaster and scenery to unscrew a board, and replace benchwork with screws, than to inflct pounding nails into existing work. Scale earthquakes have the same effect on models as real ones do on the prototype.


                    Wallace, good point and I totally agree. Screws don't cost that much more than nails, especially the drywall ones. That can save you a lot later on if you want to make changes not rebuild which is what might happen if you use nails.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi all

                      Here is an example of using Cookie Cutter Construction method for your benchwork. This was originally posted by Shamus (Paul) in this forum.

                      Posted - 08/18/2002 : 05:45:06

                      Here's a starter, letter (A) shows the cookie cutting done on both the 1/8" plywood and 1/2" insulation board. Letter (B) shows it in place but not raised and letter (C) shows part of it raised ready for the next job.

                      PaulT


                      <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Here are a few pics showing a method for using 1/2" blue foam in the "cookie-cutter" fashion that is, I think, a bit different. It has worked out very well. It's very strong and rigid due the "box girder" structures. (I just posted links as some of the images need to be resized).

                        The 1/2" blue foam sub-bed and risers looking north.

                        http://www.railroad-line.com/UPLOADS...1_134340AA.JPG

                        The same area with roadbed and track in place.

                        http://www.railroad-line.com/UPLOADS...2012-20-02.JPG

                        The trestle on the north end.

                        http://www.railroad-line.com/UPLOADS...r/DSCF0083.JPG

                        (Note: Don't use the white foam. It's bad![!])
                        Jim

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          This is an idea I tried for portable benchwork on a small (32"x66") N scale table-top style layout that I'm building.

                          I built a lightweight open-frame "cart", so to speak, for the layout to sit on when in use, & then lifted off for transport. I built it from some pieces of 1x3, & some old L-girders recycled from a previous layout. (I never throw anything away...just ask my wife! )The structure rides on heavy-duty casters, with locking wheels.


                          Download Attachment: bench1.jpg
                          55.96 KB

                          I inverted the L-girders at the top, so they would lock together with some L-girders that I screwed to the bottom of the plywood trainboard.I use a couple of "Quick-Grip" C-clamps to hold the layout in place, while it's sitting on the benchwork.

                          Download Attachment: bench2.jpg
                          39.67 KB


                          Download Attachment: bench3.jpg
                          56.78 KB
                          -Drew-



                          "Life is all the stuff that happened while you were making other plans."

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi all

                            Here is a web site of another model railroad that is undergoing reconstruction to increase it's overall size.

                            The site belongs to "Bonkyrail" (Michael Haley).

                            Just click on the link and you can follow the construction that has begun in the new year.

                            The web site also has many other features including the building of the original layout. There are lots of pictures which are a great help in the explanation of the proceedures used.

                            As this is a work in progress you will be able to follow the construction of the new layout from benchwork to running trains.

                            http://www.moctezuma-us.com/bonkyrail/
                            <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi all

                              The following is a topic on building modules that was found at the Layout Construction Yahoo Group.



                              I've built over 50 module sections using foam. Here's what works for me:


                              1) 1"x4" box built to the size desired (my largest are 30"x6')

                              2) 2" foam inserted into the box structure, level with the top of the wood,

                              and secured with Liquid Nails.

                              3) one 1x4 center support under the foam, screwed to the box frame.

                              4) add legs as desired (mine are all off the shelf 1" PVC components).

                              I've never had a module fail with this construction method, which I've used

                              for a 15x28 HO scale home layout and ten (and counting) Ntrak modules, which

                              travel quite a bit.

                              Actually, I've found that inserting the foam into the box frame works quite

                              well to secure the foam, and to protect it. I add a bead of Liquid Nails to

                              the sides of the frame before I add the foam. Adding the foam smears the

                              bead and does a good job in gluing it into place. I also glue the center

                              support, wide end to the foam, to help support the foam. The center support

                              is screwed to the frame.

                              I agree that using plywood ripped into dimensional lumber will be better

                              than using stick lumber for the frames.

                              I've experimented with several leg options, few of which have been really

                              satisfactory. The simplest method is to just screw 2x2's into the corners

                              below the foam, but these aren't removable. I tried 1" PVC legs in sockets

                              screwed to the corners, but this method wasn't really stable. Finally, I

                              came up with something that works well, and which I'm in the process of

                              retrofitting to all my Ntrak modules (and some friends modules as well). I

                              screw 1x4 gussets to the bottom of the box frames at the corners, and attach

                              a 1" diameter floor flange to the gusset. My new legs are 1" PVC with a

                              male adapter on one end, and a plug on the other. The male adapter screws

                              into the floor flange, and is quite stable. I drill and tap the plug for a

                              large carriage bolt, which gives me leveling capability. The only down side

                              to this method is the weight: the four cast iron floor flanges weigh as much

                              as the rest of the module! On the positive side, adding legs to my Ntrak

                              modules is a matter of a couple of seconds.

                              Edit:

                              I think the method that Rusty (Walt) demonstrates on his leg construction would be lighter.



                              Yes, adding the foam inside the frame eliminates the need for other wood

                              supports for the foam. Keeping the frame square during construction is the

                              hardest part of the module building process!

                              I've been having good luck with double sided carpet tape for laying track

                              recently. The jury's still out, but I think it works well. Gasket tape is

                              basically 3M foam tape, which is available at any hardware store. If the

                              carpet tape doesn't hold long term, I'll switch to 3M aircraft tape, which

                              is more expensive, but will NEVER come loose! (did anyone know that many

                              parts in modern aircraft construction are TAPED together?!?). One trick

                              I've found with the double sided tape is that it also holds ballast. I've

                              been ballasting as soon as I lay track, and have basically cut out the mess

                              of gluing ballast! It also gives you the most in-scale ballasting job in N

                              scale I've ever seen!

                              I'm glad all this has been of some use to you! Have fun building!

                              RAY


                              <img src="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/bbags/20076794158_b3b.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br>John Bagley<br /><br>Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

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