Only if your wheels are less than 1" in diameter. (Limiting for steam drivers in On30).

I actually have BOTH as well as many of the extra tools from this site:

http://81.169.175.242/fohrmann/de/li...p?type=4&id=16

(expensive - but extraordinary for a lot of rewheel and regearing work).

-ed-

Geezer,

Not a problem ... the hammer was used a while ago .... [:-dunce] when I was much younger by about 7 days ....

Sry guys - the "hammer & drift pin" was meant for a joke.

My bad.....

The Geezer

Ed,

If I can find the Puller II, I would be better off purchasing it?

Geezer,

I used a hammer ... bent a shaft on one of the "spuds". :erm: One of those secrets most would not admit to.[:-blindfold]

I'll point out that the press tools set is valuable because the twisting motion of the press bolt is not transferred to the wheel or axles.

As for a drift pin - not recommended with the delicate construction of the model wheels (especially those with plastic centers). You want a very fine controlled press to keep the wheels 'square' to the axle - especially doing the press installation. Pulling the wheels also since the drift could damage the bore and eliminate refitting latter.

The difference in the press length can make a real difference. Most axles in HO are 1.010" or longer - and the 1" press length of the Puller I makes for some difficult maneuvers when the reassembly process is done. But for On30, you are limited in the size of driver wheels that you may want to handle. Either way the Puller(s) will work as you can do 'inverse' setups.

-ed-

Ed,

I am getting ready to place an order. The Puller was available and the Puller II on back order.

For 0N30 the puller should work fine.

The info on the bender says it will bend styrene however I would like to hear from someone whether it really works or not. I was thinking along your lines that the styrene would have to be heated.

This goes along with what Ed shows above. The puller (#45-4) and the puller 2 (#55-4) have the same frame but the screw hole for the allen wrench is located at the different location as shown in the above picture. http://forum.atlasrr.com/discussion/...TOPIC_ID=49427

The puller has the screw hole at the longer side of the frame and shallower press depth.

On the other hand, the puller 2 has it at the short side of the frame and deeper press depth.

The both puller kits has one allen wrench,two press screws and 'V' plate.

The adaptors called "the professional precision press tools" are available as shown in the picture.

It includes the adaptors to handle 1.5 mm and smaller diameter shafts.

The puller 2 is MUST if you use the adaptors because they require deeper press depth to accept the adaptors.

There are four adaptors.

#4540-4 1.0 mm press pin

#4542-4 1.2 mm press pin

#4544-4 1.5 mm press pin

#4546-4 2.4 mm press pin

One parts number above has two adaptors, one is with short press pin for starting the press-out

and the other is with long press pin for completing removal of shaft.

The kit called "the professional precision press tools kit #4539-4" has total eight adaptors.

Nice stuff there!!!

But, can'tcha just use a hammer and a 1/4" drift pin??? (J/K)

I guess if ya are gonna do a lot or re-gauging, those two NWSL tools would be great to own...

I don't see any difference in the two that you mention Tom....

I am sure we all "know" about the finger puller...

The Geezer

Tom,

The difference is in the diameter of the wheels and the depth of the press. Here's a copy of the NWSL catalog:



I would not count on a bender handling styrene. Styrene is rather brittle and needs to be softened with heat to actually bend.

-ed-