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  • #286
    quote:

    Originally posted by Michael Hohn

    Joe,

    Those rivets do not count against you. They are part of the scratchbuilding.

    Mike

    Yup! They are a credit! Lots of work to install them....

    Also part of Construction, Detail, and if in correct placement and style, also goes in Conformity.
    In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding.

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    • #287
      why don't you try the Archer decal rivets, they go on a lot faster and after painting, no one can tell.
      Kelly Russell

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      • #288
        Paint versus install floor boards - quandary

        I have the 4 sides of my stock car assembled excluding ladders, b-end platform, stirrups etc. I'm curious as to whether I should install the unstained floor boards and then proceed with priming and painting the sides and thus the floor boards. Or would it be better to prime and paint the sides as much as I have them assembled and then install stained floor boards.

        thanks

        Joe in Orlando

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        • #289
          quote:

          Or would it be better to prime and paint the sides as much as I have them assembled and then install stained floor boards.
          Far easier to paint sides (and ends) prior to assembling them to the car body and so you can do the interior. Stained floor boards in advance and then installed prior to the sides and ends should make for a tidier job.
          In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding.

          Comment

          • #290
            It.s great to see this fine forum back up and running, although it was very difficult to find. I am nearing the completion of my PRR 128079 Stock car which I've been working on for way to long. I just need to install the grab irons and the stirrup on one end of the car and then begin the weathering and decalling work. Possibly by the end of the month I should be done.

            Joe in Orlando

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            • #291
              Some work still to be done is fixing links between threads. I've started on mine but many of the key threads were made by Administrators.

              I've made no progress on the Cars AP since painting my brass PRR flat.
              James

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              • #292
                Has anybody who has built a stock cars for the Cars Certificate attempted to simulate animal pee/urine that ran down the sides of the stock car just below the floor boards? If so I'd be interested in reading what you did. Thanks

                Joe in Orlando

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                • #293
                  I haven't tried that. I have seen people simulate the lime that was spread on stock car floors to kill germs and reduce odor after cleanout. I think chalk or one of the white weathering powders would be a good start.
                  James

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                  • #294
                    On March the 12-th I had the Sunshine Region AP chair, the Eastern Region AP chair and a third model railroader visit my house to judge the first 3 or 4 scratch built cars. I was slightly overwhelmed by the scores I received. It is my pleasure to share this information with you all.

                    Flat Car - Score= 115.5.

                    A photo of my Susquehanna Valley Line flat car is shown below.

                    Click image for larger version Name: IMG_235a-4.JPG Views: 66 Size: 110.5 KB ID: 990887
                    Drovers Caboose - Score = 101.5. The major problem point here is that for some unknown reason the copula got misplaced about 1/8" to far back. Bit 101.5 is greater than 87.5.

                    A photo of my Missouri Pacific Drovers Caboose is shown below

                    Click image for larger version Name: 302-crop-2.JPG Views: 71 Size: 154.9 KB ID: 990889

                    PRR Cattle/Stock Car - Score = 112.5

                    A photo of my PRR Double deck Cattle/Stock car is shown below.


                    Click image for larger version Name: 322 - Copy-4.JPG Views: 71 Size: 90.0 KB ID: 990890


                    If anybody is interested in reading the documentation packages I built for these 3 cars please go to my web site at www.svl-rr.com and click on "AP Status" along the left edge of the opening screen.

                    Joe Brann
                    Orlando, FL
                    Attached Files
                    • 1 like

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                    • #295
                      Congratulations, Joe
                      James

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                      • #296
                        For those members who have built their 4 scratch built cars for the Cars Certificate I'd appreciate some suggestions on building the 4 "Super detailed" cars". I resume starting from a kit and adding details like the correct size for ladders steps and stirrups, possibly a full scratch built AP brake system are a good place to start. I'd greatly appreciate suggestions on what kits worked well and "scored" well. I think I understand that the "judging" for these 4 cars is more or less a pass / fail judgement versus a numerical score as used for the scratch built cars. Is that correct

                        thanks

                        Joe in Orlando

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                        • #297
                          You need 4 scratchbuilt and 4 super-detailed. 4 of the 8 must earn Merit. I built a lightweight 6-4-6 sleeper using commercial etched/plated sides, a commercial core kit and a mix of commercial and scratchbuilt parts for interior, underbody etc. so didn't qualify as 'scratchbuilt'. It earned Merit at a contest, so that's 1/4 of the Merit cars I need. I have several Tichy house cars that I built, detailed, painted and lettered. I'm hoping these will be accepted as the other 3 "remaining" cars. But I won't know till I have the 4 scratchbuilt cars ready for evaluation (presently I have one done except for lettering, weathering and load).
                          James

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                          • #298
                            I've picked out a PRR steel sided boxcar as my 4-th Merit car which I hope to start on soon. The Steel sides I can easily construct with sheet styrene. On the prototype photo I am referencing and on a super dimensioned diagram in Train Shed Cyclopedia #3 I see 8 vertical columns of double rivets or carriage bolts per each side of the car. There appear to be 34 rivets/carriage bolts in one of the two verticals columns and 17 in the adjacent parallel column. I exhausted all my patience when I used Tichy NBW on the sides of my stock car (see above photo on this page). Thus it seems like my best/only choice would to go with some Microscale rivet decals. The rivet sheet I have looked at only has rivets that are hortizontally paired and not the 2 for 1 as per the 34 in one column and 17 in the other column. Several questions: 1) do such rivet decals have any texture to them such that you can feels them? 2) would such decals be applied before the first coat of paint, or after the last coat of paint but before the coat of Dullcote. Any other experienced guidance along this line would be greatly appreciated.

                            thanks

                            Joe in Orlando

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                            • #299
                              Microscale rivet decals.
                              I don't know about Microscale rivet decals, but you might want to look and see what Archer has in their catalog to see if they offer what you need/want.

                              https://www.archertransfers.com/

                              Texture - yes, at least the O scale size for tank cars do.
                              Before paint - yes, before final color for car on gloss surface otherwise you have black rivets.
                              In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding.

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